N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 / firmware v3.5 - PCBs available again (August 2017)

Started by micro, March 13, 2015, 08:57:38 AM

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micro



Ok guys, the PCB's are already ready!  ;D
See 1st post for infos on how to order.

@dav3yb: I can't guarantee that the N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 is compatible with those new GC-style sticks.

dav3yb

sent my order in.

ive also ordered 4 gc replacement sticks from what i think was the same place i ordered them from before, and im hoping they haven't changed at all.

Are there any pictures of the "new" replacement ones? I haven't been able to really find any information on anything other that what ive read here so far.

Informationator

Quote from: dav3yb on January 15, 2016, 02:16:46 AM
sent my order in.

ive also ordered 4 gc replacement sticks from what i think was the same place i ordered them from before, and im hoping they haven't changed at all.

Are there any pictures of the "new" replacement ones? I haven't been able to really find any information on anything other that what ive read here so far.

Please post any pics/info you discover on those, dav3yb.  Would be interested to know any differences/advantages/disadvantages of going with those, though I'm pretty satisfied with my N64 style ones.

I also put in an order about an hour and a half ago.  Pumped :)  I'll finally be able to convert my remaining three controllers' joysticks.

dav3yb

Quote from: Informationator on January 15, 2016, 02:20:37 AM
Quote from: dav3yb on January 15, 2016, 02:16:46 AM
sent my order in.

ive also ordered 4 gc replacement sticks from what i think was the same place i ordered them from before, and im hoping they haven't changed at all.

Are there any pictures of the "new" replacement ones? I haven't been able to really find any information on anything other that what ive read here so far.

Please post any pics/info you discover on those, dav3yb.  Would be interested to know any differences/advantages/disadvantages of going with those, though I'm pretty satisfied with my N64 style ones.

I also put in an order about an hour and a half ago.  Pumped :)  I'll finally be able to convert my remaining three controllers' joysticks.

will do!  They're from an ebay seller called video game museum, and im pretty sure thats where i ordered mine from before.  i should get them next week and ill be able to tell pretty soon if they're any different or newer. 

Informationator

Thanks!  I ordered my V3 joystick boxes (not related to this V3 circuit board - has V3 printed on the plastic) from video-game-museum in May of last year.  Is THIS what you ordered?  ...because it looks identical to what I bought last May.

dav3yb

Quote from: Informationator on January 15, 2016, 04:31:04 AM
Thanks!  I ordered my V3 joystick boxes (not related to this V3 circuit board - has V3 printed on the plastic) from video-game-museum in May of last year.  Is THIS what you ordered?  ...because it looks identical to what I bought last May.

Yep, those are the exact ones i ordered today, and i think they're the same ones i ordered last time as well. 

libwilliam

I just asked video-game-museum which version they are currently selling and they responded with "2015". Not sure if that means anything to you users that have ordered units from them in the past.

marowak25

Would it be possible to use the stick case from an original controller to fix the restrictor gate problem?. That means that you would have to cut it to fit the gc stick, but I was wondering if anyone has already tried this.

micro

 I could have sworn I saw pics of the new GC-style stick in this very thread some months ago.

Anyways, takeshi posted some pics on assemblergames: http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/n64-controller-solutions.58300/#post-838723

It looks like the N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 COULD still fit... Well, eventually we will know for sure.  ;D

The analog stick itself looks like it's a different brand. The "388" marking could mean that they're still using +-38°-joysticks. That would mean even this version would suffer from the "dead border" on the outside.

AndehX

Just registered to show my support of this project.  Placed an order for 1 PCB set too.  This is the kind of stuff we need to keep old school gaming alive :)

Informationator

Quote from: AndehX on January 15, 2016, 11:25:18 PM
Just registered to show my support of this project.  Placed an order for 1 PCB set too.  This is the kind of stuff we need to keep old school gaming alive :)
Agreed.  At this point, the ONLY thing I wish was different at this point is the restriction gate.  If we could just get someone with a little 3D printing know-how to print one that matches the dimensions of the N64 version, you could just swap out the top half of the aftermarket joystick boxes with the 3D printed one and it'd match an N64's sensitivity perfectly without any need for extended range mode.

Still, as far as problems go, that one is minimal, and even if we never had that, these circuit boards and potentiometers are better than brand new joysticks of the original design in my opinion.

Fuddman

This is somewhat offtopic but can anyone point me to documentation on how the stick pcb talks to the main pcb of the pad? (Edit: Oh, and does anybody know whether third party controllers usually use the same protocol? I mean, they could probably just run lines from the potentiometers (or whatever they are using) to the main pcb and have all processing happen in a single chip...)

And micro, could you explain what happens in extended range mode; do you scale the x & y values down by a constant factor? (or, if this info is out there somewhere a link would be just as nice :) )
Edit: After reading through the PCB v3 pdf I guess that is what you are doing, but I am not 100% certain. It says "But keep in mind while using the extended range mode the stick will be slightly more sensitive." So is there a small region at the left-, right-, top- and bottom-most positions where the output values do not change anymore, i.e. you reach the maximum/minimum x/y values before the stick touches the restrictor?
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

J-O-A

Well, i have my PCB's ordered but no gc style analog sticks yet. Anybody happen to know a seller with the older version on sale? Or should I just wait till somebody gets to test whether the PCB's work with the newest version?

Link83

Quote from: micro on January 15, 2016, 12:25:16 AM
I can't guarantee that the N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 is compatible with those new GC-style sticks.
I have one of the new GC-style sticks with the rubber topped analog stick. The base still has the four screw holes in the same position as used on micro's PCB, but one screw hole support is slightly recessed, and there are no screws actually holding the new PCB in place :-\ Will try and add a picture later.

<EDIT>This post has pictures of the new version:-
http://s9.zetaboards.com/Nintendo_64_Forever/single/?p=8187124&t=7453280


Does anyone happen to have a picture of the inside of the bottom half of the old GC-style stick? Hoping to compare it to the new version to see if anything has changed which might affect the fitment of micro's board.

Fuddman

Quote from: J-O-A on January 17, 2016, 03:20:32 AM
Well, i have my PCB's ordered but no gc style analog sticks yet. Anybody happen to know a seller with the older version on sale? Or should I just wait till somebody gets to test whether the PCB's work with the newest version?

I recently bought some from "Classic Game Source Inc." on amazon.com. I did not see any difference to the one in micro's manual, four screws etc. But that's no guarantee, you never know :(

But where can I get one of the new gc style ones? And is the rubber top preferable to plastic?

How many versions are there?

  • SimpleJet (V3 on back? like the ones in micro's pdf?)
  • Hyperkin (one screw on back?)
?
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

Fuddman

This is what I have: Images

I just saw it says "SIMPLE JET V2.0" on the PCB. But it has "V3" on the housing. I have others (from the same order) which do not have the "2015" sticker, but they seem to be same otherwise. So I guess they are "old style"?

@Link83: Is the recessed hole the top left one? Looks like they have compatible PCBs.
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

Link83

Quote from: Fuddman on January 17, 2016, 05:54:08 AM
@Link83: Is the recessed hole the top left one? Looks like they have compatible PCBs.
Yes the top left screw hole support is lower than the other three, it looks like all four supports are the same height in your picture?

...Still, even three screw holes *should* give enough support, assuming I can find some suitable screws to secure the PCB in place.

If you dont mind me asking how long ago did you order from "Classic Game Source Inc."?

Fuddman

Quote from: Link83 on January 17, 2016, 06:08:08 AM
it looks like all four supports are the same height in your picture?
I think so, yes.

Quote from: Link83 on January 17, 2016, 06:08:08 AM
If you dont mind me asking how long ago did you order from "Classic Game Source Inc."?

Not at all. :) Ordered Dec 31, shipped Jan 4.
Also note, they have 2 different products: "N64 Replacement Joystick GameCube Style, High Sensitivity" and "Redesigned REPLACEMENT Joystick for Nintendo 64 Controller Repair N64 Thumbstick Pad", I ordered both but I can't tell which are which, they might just be the same.

I'll let you know whether micro's PCBs fit when I get them, I think they will.
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

Link83

Thanks, yeah I am certain yours are the older version - especially if your PCB was held in place with screws.

In case it helps anyone I purchased my newer version from ebay seller "whatsapp2012" in December 2015.

Fuddman

Quote from: Link83 on January 17, 2016, 06:28:10 AM
In case it helps anyone I purchased my newer version from ebay seller "whatsapp2012" in December 2015.

Thank you, found the seller!
They all use the same image with the brown box, seems you can't go by that. >:(
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

AndehX

Quote from: Link83 on January 17, 2016, 06:28:10 AM

In case it helps anyone I purchased my newer version from ebay seller "whatsapp2012" in December 2015.

Very interesting.  I bought one from that seller too.  Looks like I'll probably be getting a newer version too.

As for that top left post being smaller, you could just fill the space with a couple of small washers and then maybe use a longer screw.

Fuddman

Quote from: micro on January 15, 2016, 12:25:16 AM


Are the six points to the right of the "PCB v3" line for an AVR ISP connector? If so

  • is the pinout
    top: GND, MOSI, +VCC
    bottom: RESET, SCK, MISO ?
  • is there enough space for a connector or do you use pogo pins?
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

crypticxchill

Quote from: micro on January 15, 2016, 12:25:16 AMOk guys, the PCB's are already ready!
See 1st post for infos on how to order.
Hi, sent you an email on Sunday to order 2 PCBs - this is a great project and I can't wait to rejuvenate my controllers. Haven't heard back from you though :(

public-pervert

@Fuddman: I'm not involved in any way on the project, but it's obvioulsy an ISP connector. The pinout must be standard.
Just curious, what's the point of this question? Are you working on your own version or want to downgrade the FW? You can just solder an ISP connector, burn the FW and just remove it, as you probably never need it anymore unless you're debugging your own firmware.  ;)

Fuddman

Quote from: public-pervert on January 20, 2016, 12:23:47 AM
@Fuddman: I'm not involved in any way on the project, but it's obvioulsy an ISP connector. The pinout must be standard.
Just curious, what's the point of this question? Are you working on your own version or want to downgrade the FW? You can just solder an ISP connector, burn the FW and just remove it, as you probably never need it anymore unless you're debugging your own firmware.  ;)

Well, I was pretty sure it is an ISP connector, but who knows? And which way would it have to be? I guess you can go by the marked pin (bottom left on the lower PCB), but I wanted to ask just to make sure.

I can't be working on anything right now because I don't have any PCBs ;), but I might want to experiment with it a little some time. After all you would need to reflash it even if you just want to change some constants, right?

Yeah I thought about just soldering it on and if it prevents the casing from closing to desolder it again, but I would rather not attach/detach it that often...

btw, as you mentioned downgrading, are the new pcbs compatible with the old software? (I know it is floating around somewhere, there is a link in another thread)
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

DebateBits

Quote from: Link83 on January 17, 2016, 04:30:30 AM
Quote from: micro on January 15, 2016, 12:25:16 AM
I can't guarantee that the N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 is compatible with those new GC-style sticks.
I have one of the new GC-style sticks with the rubber topped analog stick. The base still has the four screw holes in the same position as used on micro's PCB, but one screw hole support is slightly recessed, and there are no screws actually holding the new PCB in place :-\ Will try and add a picture later.

<EDIT>This post has pictures of the new version:-
http://s9.zetaboards.com/Nintendo_64_Forever/single/?p=8187124&t=7453280


Does anyone happen to have a picture of the inside of the bottom half of the old GC-style stick? Hoping to compare it to the new version to see if anything has changed which might affect the fitment of micro's board.

Here's one of the earlier N64, GC-style, sticks.


AndehX

That's alright.  It's just a matter of finding some slightly wider screws, then it should be fine.

public-pervert

@Fuddman: AFAIK, Micro doesn't changed the microcontroller, so even if he changed the pinouts, it could be compatible with little modifications.

@AndehX: BTW, are you David Clemens?

AndehX


Fuddman

Quote from: public-pervert on January 20, 2016, 03:44:16 AM
@Fuddman: AFAIK, Micro doesn't changed the microcontroller, so even if he changed the pinouts, it could be compatible with little modifications.

You're right, it should be fine. Or maybe he'll release the code for the new one anyway. :)
Yeah Oh! Fuddman

dav3yb

Well some good news on my front!  The GC sticks I picked up from Video Game Museum on ebay seem to still use the older design.  They're marked with the V3 and a 2015 sticker, but the one i opened up looked pretty much exactly like the old style, even down the 4 small screws holding the board in place (and they do line up with micro's pcb, i tested out with my original v3).

I went ahead and ordered myself 4 more, so hopefully it's not a case of just "old stock with new markings" for some reason.

Oh, and joystick cap is still plastic, not rubber. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380952838594?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

here's a link to the exact auction.

public-pervert

Quote from: AndehX on January 20, 2016, 03:48:13 AM
Quote from: public-pervert on January 20, 2016, 03:44:16 AM
@AndehX: BTW, are you David Clemens?
errr....  No?  Why do you ask? lol

Because you're using the same avatar as David Clemens from the-elite.net
And since speedrunnig brought me into modding scene, I thought you could be him :)

AndehX

Quote from: public-pervert on January 20, 2016, 08:55:25 PM
Quote from: AndehX on January 20, 2016, 03:48:13 AM
Quote from: public-pervert on January 20, 2016, 03:44:16 AM
@AndehX: BTW, are you David Clemens?
errr....  No?  Why do you ask? lol

Because you're using the same avatar as David Clemens from the-elite.net
And since speedrunnig brought me into modding scene, I thought you could be him :)
oooh right, no, i'm not him, although I am into speedrunning and modding too :P

Traveller

Cool another run, I'll let some ppl know.

We still order through the email in the first post?

Thanks.

AndehX

My sticks came today (very quick!) I was kinda worried that I would butcher them when soldering, but I think they turned out ok (im no soldering expert)
Not sure if the discoloration is burn marks from my iron (its got a chisel tip) or flux from the solder....

Don't have the GC stick yet (still waiting for delivery from japan) but as soon as it comes, I should be ready to go :D

dav3yb

Quote from: AndehX on January 21, 2016, 11:01:16 PM
My sticks came today (very quick!) I was kinda worried that I would butcher them when soldering, but I think they turned out ok (im no soldering expert)
Not sure if the discoloration is burn marks from my iron (its got a chisel tip) or flux from the solder....

Don't have the GC stick yet (still waiting for delivery from japan) but as soon as it comes, I should be ready to go :D

looks like just some flux to me. a cotton swab and a dab of alcohol will clean it up, which you might want to do, since i think some fluxes can be mildly corrosive.

AndehX

So I got my GC stick from japan today, and I can confirm that Micro's PCB is fully compatible with the new GC design.  It doesn't even need to be screwed in.

micro

Great post, thanks for letting us know!  :D

But I also like to say that I'm not happy about the hype that has been built up around these PCB's. Not at all...
In my opinion you should get the GC-style stick first and see for yourself if you're satisfied. If not, you can get the N64 Stick Converter PCB to improve it. But to me it seems most people do it the other way round. :/

Anyways, I also want to announce that I only got a few PCB's in stock. Don't worry, I plan on making more, but unfortunately one part (the switch) is out of stock. There is no any other supplier but mouser. It seems I have to wait until March for the switches to arrive.

AndehX

Quote from: micro on January 26, 2016, 02:33:54 AM
In my opinion you should get the GC-style stick first and see for yourself if you're satisfied. If not, you can get the N64 Stick Converter PCB to improve it. But to me it seems most people do it the other way round. :/
I understand what you mean, but I know that if I bought the stick first, knowing about the flaws with it, I would notice them right away, and would instantly want to order your PCB anyway.  Im a bit OCD about stuff like this, and knowing that there is a better solution than the the GC stick, I wouldn't be able to rest knowing I'm not getting the best out of it.

AndehX

I have a question.

I have one of those cheap knockoff N64 controllers.  How would I wire your PCB to it?  (It only seems to have 4 points for X and Y)