My Nintendo 'projects' topic

Started by Shadow_Zero, May 12, 2013, 06:52:35 AM

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Ok, I've been spamming the forum enough lately, so I'd figure it would be more practical to start my own topic and spam in there and have that as an archive  ;)   (although I usually tend to hold on to the 'use the search button and dig up existing topics' principal).

For starters, my current to do list:

In progress:
- make all PAL N64 games work on NTSC N64 with the Passport III
- make all NTSC N64 games work on PAL N64 with the Passport III
- build a 50/60hz +lockout switch into my PAL SNES
- fix PAL N64 s-video <-- albino_vulpix / link83 mod doesn't seem to work
- change German Pro Action Replay MK3 to English --> topic on Assemblergames
- clean SNES pads so hopefully Start/Select work properly again
- fix/clean N64 thumbsticks ( /

- use the best RGB cable for my PAL N64 (FRA modded obviously) <-- VDC + booster mod can use Gamecube cable, SRGB mod needs SNES RGB cable. On LCD official Gamecube cable seems to have less X pattern hatch than 3rd party
- compare SNES & N64 video signals on Sony Bravia 3 HX800 200Hz LED TV and JVC AV-29FT1 50Hz CRT TV
- figure out if I need any composite sync/C-Sync mod
- try to fix corrosion SNES
- PAL SNES 'import' gamepad mod
- Make US SNES carts fit in PAL Game Genie
- replace Wii dvd drive
- contribute to
- contribute to The Cover Project

- check chip sets and revisions
- use the best RGB cable for my PAL SNES <-- for original revision 3x 75ohm resistors, no caps. LCD tv has X pattern hatch
- use the best RGB cable for my NTSC N64 --> Gamecube cable (3x 220uF caps). On LCD official Gamecube cable seems to have less X pattern hatch than 3rd party
- perform RGB boost mod for RGB modded NTSC N64 <-- done. No visual difference between FRA SRGB mod and VDC + booster mod
- switch the case of my gold N64 to one of the RGB modded ones
- fix defect 50/60hz switch PAL SNES
- mod a GB-micro to GC cable
- find out about US/EU/JP SNES (SFC) ac/dc adapters <-- PAL NES/SNES/US NES same (AC), FC/SFC same (dc), US SNES weird connector (dc)
- open official Gamecube SCART RGB cable <-- done (which was quite a hassle  >_<). Instruction on mmmonkey
- Fix N64 L R button/ tactile switch

Way too much sources I felt necessary to collect here as well:

Nintendo a/v

Video Encoder chips   

filtered CVBS (regular) sync / C-Sync (Raw)

"in RGB if you use c-sync instead of composite then you get a BETTER image quality especially in modern lcd panels"
"composite seems to introduce some kind of pattern at the image, which lacks from the c-sync one"
"only CVBS is wired/used on SFC RGB cable"
""Official" Japanese SFC RGB cable does not use pin 3 (CSYNC/+12VDC on the snes multi-av connector) for obtaining the sync (uses composite video instead of CSYNC)."
"CSYNC/Composite Sync is replaced by +12V on PAL SNES and PAL Gamecube consoles (But not the PAL N64)"
"A PAL SNES outputs +12v on pin 3, not composite sync. This is for a SCART TV to automatically detect RGB input."

"Grid / chickenwire / checkerboard pattern / diagonal lines / X pattern hatch effect / netting error / masking error / mesh pattern effect / crosshatching / running ants / herringbone pattern" video issue

Nintendo pinout:

Scart pinout:

SNES SCART RGB cable mod
Mod Gamecube RGB cable for PAL SNES:

Resistors use for PAL SNES RGB cable:

Official PAL SNES RGB cable:

Difference official SFC / GC cable:

SNES revisions

SNES lockout chips

1CHIP SNES picture quality


SNES mobo

SNES s-video

SNES S-RGB (+s-video)

SNES 1-chip mods

SNES vertical line issue

N64 revisions

N64 mobo shots

N64 video comparisons

N64 RGB mod
List of RGB moddable N64's

original GamesX N64 RGB mod (Ryu):

GamesX N64 RGB booster: (Baku) (Viletim)

MMMonkey N64 RGB (booster) mods:

'Free For All' N64 RGB (booster) mods:

N64 C-Sync mod

NUS-001(FRA) N64 RGB info:


N64 s-video

Open official Gamecube scart rgb cable (dol-013)

Playing imports on N64 (Passport)

NES/SNES ac/dc

Corrosion, etc. SNES


How and WHY to Solder Correctly


I don't know about you guys, but I really liked the Gold N64 (gooooooooooold, shiiiiiiiiinyyyyyyyy!), and was happy when I scored one from Genkivideogames a few years ago. Thing with the N64 is, is that when playing imports with the Passport, not all games are in colour. I have that both ways, some PAL games on NTSC N64, and some NTSC games on PAL N64 (something I'd like to do some more research to, some day). With RGB this is not an issue. So then the idea was to switch the cases of my Gold N64 with my Jap RGB modded one. I'm glad this was an easy 'mod' and I can now say I have a Gold RGB modded N64    ;D



I'm in the process of making a Gameboy Micro-to-Gamecube link cable. These were never released and using the GBM-to-GBA converter cable from Nintendo in combination with a standard GBA-to-Gamecube link cable doesn't give this functionality.

Basically what needs to be done for this is to strip a GBM link cable and solder it to a GBA-GC link cable. Unfortunately official GBM link cables are rare/expensive and third party cables often don't have all the necessary pins wired. For example, they never seem to have Power P3.3V (pin 1, which has a workaround by taking power from the GC link cable) and my cable didn't even have Serial Out (pin 2)!
This is the pinout:

The connection between GBA and Gamecube needs 1, 2, 3, 6 (Power, Serial Out, Serial In, Ground)
My cable, if I used the ohm meter correctly, has pin 3, 4, 5, 6 wired   :-\

My resources so far are:
TCCPhreak's guide (best out there, he's the guru!):
Troz1820 guide & sales (screenshots seem to be gone):
dude22072's guide using an official GBM link cable:
rolfke's hack & slash guide: (more extensive in Dutch:

TCCPhreak suggested to get a 4 player GBM cable, since these most certainly will have pin 2 wired. Also on eBay there seem to be official cables being sold from China/Hong Kong for cheap prices, maybe I can give that a shot.
I made a start in butchering the cable and see if I can get as far as Rolfke (though I think I need some more info for that).
Some photos:

If anyone has any tips or input, I'd love to hear!

In the meantime I got one of those Chinese GBM link cables from eBay and they are indeed official cables. All pins are wired! Now to desolder it and solder it to a GC-GBA link cable.

Cable works like a charm!

Had to clean up the first post a bit:
GBM to GC cable


I'm fiddling quite a bit with how to get my Nintendo collection to function as universally as possible. I get stuck though since Nintendo really made a mess with av cables and psu's.

This is pretty much what my brainstorm has resulted in so far (I take into account that any controller port mod/region lockout mod/50/60Hz switch mod will be performed):
PAL SNES advantages
Nicer design than US SNES
PSU also works with PAL NES and US NES
Most games I own are PAL
Easiest/cheapest to obtain

PAL SNES disadvantages
Needs adapter to fit USA carts
Needs other RGB cable than rgb modded N64 and GC

JAP SFC advantages
Nicer design than US SNES
Works with GC RGB cable (which also works for rgb modded N64)

JAP SFC disadvantages
'Blows up' when (accidentally) using PAL psu
Harder/more expensive to obtain
Needs adapter to fit USA carts
Do (all) PAL convertors also work?

US SNES advantages
Works with GC RGB cable (which also works for rgb modded N64)
Fits PAL/SFC carts

US SNES disadvantages
Uglier design than JAP/PAL
Harder/expensive to obtain
Rare proprietary psu
Do (all) PAL convertors also work?

I'm also wondering what the effect is when using a PAL SNES RGB cable (so 4x 75Ohm resistors) on a NTSC console (which should have 4x 220Uf capacitors). When I use my PAL SNES RGB cable on my JAP RGB N64 it seems to work quite alright on my LCD tv. Still need to test it with my CRT tv.

QuoteThe capacitors are there to remove the 1V DC offset in the RGB signal - although many TV/Monitors will still display the RGB picture fine without them they are strongly recommended to help prevent any damage occuring to less tolerant displays.

Quote from: Link83 on January 23, 2009, 01:44:31 PMI just wanted to update that I tested both a PAL SNES/N64 Composite cable and a PAL Gamecube Composite cable on a PAL N64 console.

Visually I couldnt see any difference using either cable (but maybe im not looking hard enough)

I then decided to measure the DC offset from the PAL N64. Using the PAL Gamecube Composite cable (75ohm resistor to ground and 220uF capacitor in series) it measured 0.00V as I expected.

Next I tried the PAL SNES/N64 Composite cable (75ohm resistor to ground) and somewhat surprisingly got readings betweens 0.7V and 1.35V DC - varying according to how bright the game picture was. During gameplay it seemed to average out at about 1V DC.

I am not sure what effect this DC offset would have on the picture quality, but I dont think it would be for the better. I have read in many audiophile forums that having a DC offset on headphone amplifiers higher than 20mV (0.02V!) can have a detrimental affect on the sound and can damage the speakers :o, so I assume a 1V DC offset on Composite video would be the same/similar(?)

All this suggests that to me their definitely should be a 220uF capacitor in series on the PAL N64 Composite line aswell as the 75ohm resistor to ground, and that Nintendo just cheaped out on making the PAL N64 Composite cable because they could get away with it ::)
Quote from: Fix_Metal on July 08, 2013, 09:58:47 AMSame as what you'd need to output composite from Sony CXA encoder in SMS2 mod.
That gives you some filtering (can't Bode it atm) and DC decoupling.
Quote from: Link83 on July 20, 2008, 03:35:28 AMAlso, I am curious to know why these extra compoents (75ohm resistor and 220uf Capacitor) are even neccessary on PAL Nintendo AV cables? - I had read somewhere that it was due to the 50/60hz difference also affecting the brightness levels - is this true/correct?
Quote from: viletim on July 27, 2008, 10:31:50 PMThis resistor is present on every signle PAL SNES composite cable, and it's inside your SNES SCART cable. If you leave it out you will have a distorted picture.
Quote from: Link83 on January 17, 2009, 03:02:32 AM
I found a little bit of information which is quite interesting. I was looking though the support section of the Nintendo Europe website (The support section used to comprise of simply an email address, postal address and phone number - but since the site 'revamp' last year it now has FAQ sections aswell) I wasnt expecting the person writing them to have been that knowledgable on differences between cables, but it appears they did know there was a difference. These are the interesting bits:-
Quote from: Nintendo Europe
Stereo AV Cable and Scart Adapter
The Nintendo GameCube stereo AV cable is downwardly compatible with the Nintendo 64 and the Super Nintendo.
With the Nintendo GameCube, only the Nintendo GameCube stereo AV cable or other products licensed by Nintendo must be used.
Do not connect a stereo AV cable to the Nintendo GameCube that is intended for the Super Nintendo or the Nintendo 64.
Quote from: Nintendo Europe
Game has a white tint
The image problem occurs in all games:
Check whether the Nintendo GameCube was connected to the TV with a Super Nintendo or Nintendo 64 stereo A/V cable (can be seen from the dark grey multi-out plug) - the original Nintendo GameCube stereo A/V cable has a black multi-out plug).
Connect your Nintendo GameCube - if possible - to another TV to exclude a defect on the TV.
If possible, test the Nintendo GameCube with another original Nintendo GameCube stereo A/V cable (recognised by the black multi-out plug)....

Seems like the Gamecube Composite cable should work fine with all three consoles, whilst the SNES and N64 cables cannot be used with the Gamecube as it produces a 'white tint'.

I think its safe to say that there should be no problems adding the 220uf capacitor for the PAL N64 - it seems it was originally intended (based on the motherboard spaces) and 'straight from Nintendo' we know the PAL Gamecube Composite cable works fine with the PAL N64. The only reason I think as to why Nintendo left out the capacitor is to save money if they could get away without it - I certainly think you should use one if you can - if it makes any difference to the picture quality or not I cant say as yet.

Id be intrigued to know if the PAL SNES should have used the capacitor or not - there isnt a 'space' on the motherboard though like the PAL N64 so its hard to say.

When I have time I think I will try comparing each cable on each console and note any visual diifferences, aswell as seeing if I can measure the 'DC offset' produced from each cable.
Quote from: Hojo_Norem on November 01, 2006, 05:11:18 AM
QuoteThe resistor between the composite video out and ground is required to get the video to the standard signal level. It's present in the standard AV (3x phono) cable too. You can probably leave it out if you've only going to be viewing RGB (and using cvideo for just sync information). I have no idea why nintendo chose design it like this.
I think its because some TVs, especially older ones don't like the composite signal to go out of standard, even when its just being used as SYNC for RGB.  I have seen this happen on two sets, a old Philips based set and a not so old Panasonic.  On the Panasonic the picture would tear a little on bright pictures while on the Philips (well, a Dynatron which was just a re-badged Philips) the picture would go out of sync and roll around until the picture darkened.  Putting the resistor in fixed the problem.  I put it in series with the composite signal and it seems to work with no problem.
Quote from: unshe on March 26, 2013, 09:06:58 AM
"In the Official Pal Snes RGB cable there are 4x75ohm resistors. like the viletime's diagram (
But if you got the 1-chip board (there is only one PPU instead of two) i suggest to use the Gamecube pal RGB cable. I tried on a lot of Snes and the only one that is working whit the gamecube's cable is the version Snsp-cpu-1chip-01 (a mono-ppu Snes). And looks better whit the GC clable than the Snes one, IMHO. Of course It is working whit Snes cable, but it is a little dark."
Quote from: kamiboy on November 08, 2010, 11:47:19 PMOut of the two different revisions of the newer SNES's I have the very last, which is apparently very rare in NTSC. Nintendo prolly removed or added some caps from the RGB signal path while doing this last NTSC revision which made the signal incompatible with the SHVC-010 cables.
Quote from: kamiboy on November 22, 2010, 10:53:22 PM
In case anyone is interested, and for the sake of future internet archive diggers. I got my NEC XM29, and my Rev 3 NTSC/U SNES gives me the same crippled image via the official Famicon RGB21 cables.

This settles it then, the third revision NTSC/U SNES has combination of resistors and/or capacitors that are not compatible with the official Famicom RGB cables.

The image is extremely dark and the colours look inverted at places, which leads my to make a uneducated guess that the picture level has been brought down too low by an extra set of 220 resistors, but what do I know.

Just a heads up for prospective buyers, check your SNES revision before you spend a lot of money on those RGB21 cables. Also, S-video works great.

Quote from: RGB32E on July 16, 2008, 02:16:06 AM
The PAL GC RGB and SHVC-010 are not quite the same... Since you are using the official GCN SCART cable, you have the choice of using filtered composite or composite sync (both are fed through the scart plug PCB).  Which signal are you using as sync?  Either choice of sync (filtered CVBS or CSYNC) will work fine on a Sony PVM, but not necessarily on other monitors or RGBS accepting devices.

Some similarities between official SFC RGB and official GCN SCART cables:
-R, G, and B are filtered with 220uf caps
-CVBS is fed through the cable

-Both CVBS and CSYNC (or +12VDC for PAL systems) are fed through the GCN cable (only CVBS is wired/used on SFC RGB cable)
-CVBS is filtered with a 220uf cap on the GCN cable (CVBS is not filtered on SFC RGB cable)
-GCN cable uses 100 ohm resistor for the SCART mode setting and the SFC connects VDC through series 75 ohm resistor to the +5VDC pin of 21 pin connector.


Can't add more text to the first post lol
Got some new SNES' and N64's and probably want to fiddle with my Playstation 2' some time.

These are the SNES' and N64's I have:
NUP10009929 (Dutch launch console), charcoil black
NUS-001 (EUR)
"DENC-NUS, RS5C282, 6LM 74"

NUJ10442567 (RGB modded), charcoil black
NUS-001 (JPN)
"VDC-NUS, BU9801F, 619 171"

NUJ13871399, gold
NUS-001 (JPN)
"AVDC-NUS, BU9805FS, 841 128"

NUP11779611 (RGB modded), charcoil black
"VDC-NUS A, BU9801F, 729 186"
"S-RGB A, BA6596F, 31 173"

NUP11982009, charcoil black
"VDC-NUS A, BU9801F, 732 133"
"S-RGB A, BA6596F, 733 159"

NUP16823449, Ice Blue (white bottom & grey parts)
NUS-001 (EUR)

S-CPU A, 5A22-02, 1LD 9U
S-PPU1, 5C77-01, 2AU 93
S-PPU2 B, 5C78-03, 2DA 7F
1992 Nintendo, SNSP-HOL

S-CPU A, 5A22-02, 2FB 73
S-PPU1, 5C77-01, 2FV 6A
S-PPU2 B, 5C78-03, 2FF 82
1992 Nintendo, SNSP-HOL

S-CPU B, 5A22-02, 3GA 82
S-PPU1, 5C77-01, 3FF J4
S-PPU2 C, 5C78-03, 3GU 8N
1992 Nintendo, SNSP-HOL

S-CPUN A, RF5A122, 6FH 72

S-CPUN A, RF5A122, 6HX 8Z

This one is from a friend of mine, but interestingly enough has the black sticker and UP17 serial, but is not a 1CHIP SNES! (and it's unlikely that it was case swapped, but we don't know for sure):



PS2 Silver PAL
serial AC2842878
made in China

PSTwo Black PAL
serial FC1743417
made in China

PSTwo Ceramic White NTSC-J
serial AJ3271892
made in China

NESE-001 (FRA)



NESE-001 (FRA) RGB info:
Quote from: Salamander on October 07, 2013, 06:05:33 AM
Picked up a French PAL NES for fun mostly out of curiosity of what is inside that RF box.  The socket and plug for this system resemble a multi-out connector on later Nintendo systems a whole lot minus that central key tab.  Its identical to the covered port on the FDS RAM adapter but has 2 pins less than the RAM adapters plug (10 instead of 12).  The cable isn't too common and it terminates into SCART.  From what I can tell it uses the Sony V7021 chip to convert composite to RGB.  I'm sure the picture is every bit as terrible.  If nothing else I think this would make a really cosmetically clean RGB console if you were to do the necessary changes to the xtal, ppu and cpu.  The rear of the bottom part of the case is even already marked for RGB!
French NES Scart
Quote from: Fudoh on August 16, 2006, 01:57:09 AM
The french NES doesn't actually output real RGB, it just uses a FBAS to RGB encoder. It's just nice to use because of the multi-AV socket and the Nintendo Scart cable which comes with it.

The picture produced by the french NES without adding a REAL RGB chip is a bit more colorful than the standard video signal, but hardly any sharper.

Quote from: Guest on January 18, 2005, 05:02:42 AM
They use SECAM for their TV format, not the PAL that (most fo) the rest of Europe use, so to avoid having to cope with another vid format most French consoles just use SCART RGB. Like Lawrence said though, it's not that great since there's just a module in place of the normal RF encoder there which separates the normal video into red, green and blue - the duplicate grounds make the port handy to convert for a stereo NES though.


Ok, got a second 1CHIP PAL SNES now, so I really would like to mod them for 50/60hz and region lock (though time may be an issue this period).
So far I'm ok with the 'old' switches mod, over the fancy switchless mod, though I need to gather some info since the 1CHIP mod is different in comparison to the original revision. I'll update this post with what I find.

Mod in a nutshell:
- lift pin 111 from S-CPUN A
- hook a switch with GND (for NTSC) and +5V & 2.2K Ohm resistor (for PAL)
- incorperate a 17,734467MHz and XTAL 21,47727MHz crystal oscillator
- lift pin 9 from S-RGB??

To do:
search for 1Chip Snes crystal oscillators

Ah, this was the page I was looking for!
(thanks to keropi @ assemblergames)
Gonna give the snesfreaks forum posts a read as well (moments like these I love the Internet and google translate  XD )
Oh, also found the thread from Moosmann again: (and my own post)

Might consider getting the components from Bad_Ad84:

Additional 1CHIP mod resources:

Original revision mod guide:
fitting switches/drilling holes:

Disabling lockout chip: (silver_surfer mod)

Lift pin 9?

S-RGB info:
SNES & N64 Video Encoder Information/Datasheets:
Quote from: Link83 on January 11, 2009, 12:53:43 AMS-RGB BA6595F SOP24 chip used in later SNES consoles. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite and also amplifies and outputs analog RGB.
S-RGB A BA6596F SOP24 chip used in the last produced SNES consoles, the SNES2/SFCJr and an early French N64. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite and also amplifies and outputs analog RGB. Appears to have the same pinout as the BA6595F, so is likely a slightly improved version.


PAL / NTSC info from ikari_01 (google translate):
QuoteThe 1chip can not output PAL60.

The S-CPUN generated depending on the condition of pin 111:
- PAL-like signal, 50Hz, and the PAL chrominance subcarrier frequency of 4.43 MHz
- NTSC-like signal, 60Hz and NTSC color subcarrier frequency of 3.58 MHz

However, the S-CPUN first has only analog RGB outputs (+ color subcarrier frequency), which are then converted to composite or S-Video from video encoder S-RGB.
There are an input to the S-RGB, can be switched between PAL and NTSC compliant chroma or composite signal with the.
That will happen in isolation from the correct carrier frequency, which is indeed provided by the S-CPUN.
If you do not do the S-RGB-Mod with, so you get for the 60Hz setting:
- 60Hz (S-CPUN)
- NTSC color subcarrier frequency (S-CPUN)
- Composite signal with PAL standard (S-RGB)

So a funny mix of PAL and NTSC. This can hardly decode a television. PAL60 would be as above but with PAL color carrier frequency. This combination can be the S-CPUN not elicit.

With the mod signal on the composite NTSC standard is switched, so that a low is a "pure" NTSC signal. Today The virtually any TV.

If you always want to use only RGB, you can save the but.


After my Gamecube Freeloader 1.06B and Action Replay discs bursted (reason unknown :/ ), I was investigating this a bit and discovered there were various versions with different functionalities.
I got a new Freeloader 1.06b and Action Replay with Wii support from Marktplaats, but found out 1.06b doesn't boot Mario Kart PAL on a NTSC machine, and the Action Replay in question was not region free, so did not boot in my Panasonic Q! Later I got an older 1.08 Action Replay which is region free and also has manual code input and also found a 1.06B Freeloader, which both can boot PAL Mario Kart on NTSC  :)

Some interesting resource I have to read again since a friend of mine lost his AR memory card, though I recall reading you can also use a third party memory card;

As I understand, 3rd party memory cards can also be used, but not official memory cards. This is only for the older Action Replay, to store the manual codes. If memory serves me well I got an AR memory card with my Wii compatible AR, but it didnĀ“t have the manual code option. So that seems to be a bonus memory (I can format it in the GC memory card menu, so...). Kinda odd!

"Difference between the 'Limited Edition' versions and the 'Max' versions was the memory card - which on the 'Limited Edition' releases could only store cheats, but on the 'Max' versions could also store game saves aswell as cheats."
""Works on Wii" label - those are 1.20 Action Replays"
"I am quite confident I also saw a 1.18 Action Replay which allowed entering codes.. they are rare to find unfortunately"
"When using FreeLoader, use a separate memory card to save your game. The software will reformat the memory card to ensure compatibility with the game. You risk losing all of your previously saved games if you try to boot an import game with your primary memory card inserted."


This looks like you'll be having your hands full of work.

If you don't already know of it, please keep in mind the GameCube Freeloader Disc has certain limitations on Wii consoles. The console must run an older firmware, otherwise the disc may not work.

The same goes for Freeloader Discs advertised as being Wii compatible.


Yeah I know. But Wii has Homebrew Channel   ;)

Been fiddling with my launch PAL N64 again, to fix s-video.
Model is:
NUS-001 (EUR)

Tried both the 220uF/68nF caps (lot of interference) and Y to G bridge (no improvement) solution, but no luck so far.

Sources I've used:
Link83/albino_vulpix s-video fix
Link83 motherboard layout
Link83 N64 revisions
N64 MultiAv connector
Assemblergames s-video fix topic
Bad_Ad84 mentioning the same fix as Link83
FireAza brainstorming on the mod
Link83 N64 revisions / s-video summary
Link83 comparing official NTSC and PAL composite cable

Link83 schematics:

AlmostOriginal schematics:

Quote Link83 that pretty much sums up the PAL N64
Quote from: Link83 on November 22, 2008, 09:28:21 PMI think its a shame that Nintendo decided to 'region lock' video cables - it just takes region locking to the extreme (and I cant see any other reason why they would do it other than region locking) It meant that many PAL N64 users didnt even get a decent(ish) S-Video picture from their N64 and had to put up with the Composite/RF output.

Its also interesting to note that almost all third-party Composite AV cables are designed for the NTSC market aswell, so also miss out the 75ohm resistor and 220uf capacitor - many people dont realise this and wonder why their composite picture doesnt look very good (Not that composite looks great anyway!) Also many import gamers often get their nintendo cables muddled up aswell and dont realise it makes a difference.

As a sidenote, official composite cable comparison:
official PAL SNES composite cable: 75ohm resistor to ground, no caps
official PAL N64 composoite cable: 75ohm resistor to ground, no caps
official PAL GC composite cable: 75ohm resistor to ground and 220uF capacitor
official NTSC SNES composite cable: straight through
official NTSC N64 composite cable: straight through
official NTSC GC composite cable: straight through

I experienced using an NTSC composite or s-video cable on a PAL N64 results in a washed out image. Using these on a PAL SNES there doesn't seem to be any difference (with either the double PPU as the 1CHIP revision).


My latest addition to my collection was an Ice Blue PAL N64, for which I found out s-video did not work. I read about this before, but also about funtastic consoles that did have s-video, so I went on an investigation and found something from Link83 at Bencheck (,
QuoteThanks to a little investigating by blaze3927 I found out that the NUS-CPU(P)-03-1 is not only missing SMD components for S-Video output, but that Nintendo deliberately connected the Luma and Chroma signal directly to ground, so this revision does not have any S-Video output as standard :( (Ninty must have been really cheap to want to save costs on four SMD components! :roll:) For anyone interested I have added a little info about this under the NUS-CPU(P)-03-1 section.
This revision uses the 'indented' heatsink like the NTSC NUS-CPU-09 revision. Some small differences noted between this revision and the NUS-CPU(P)-02. One key difference are missing SMD components for S-Video output, meaning this revision does not support S-Video as standard (Really cheap Ninty) The missing components can be seen on the NUS-CPU(P)-02 revision at locations DA7, DA8, C11 and C12 - these positions are no longer labelled on this revision. DA7 and DA8 are diode arrays used for ESD protection, and C11 and C12 are capacitors for EMI reduction. None of these components are strictly necessary for the S-Video output to work, but Nintendo also connected the Luma and Chroma signals directly to ground where C11/C12 used to be - this connection would need to be cut to restore S-Video output on this revision. This is probably the very last PAL revision.
I opened up my Ice Blue console and it's a NUS-CPU(P)-03-1 (serial NUP16823449). So I guess that explains why I don't have s-video. Might try and fix it some time, though I assume this revision also has washed out colors with the NTSC s-video cable, so might not be worth it really...

Link83 hasn't updated the topic at Bencheck of the N64 revisions for quite a while. In the meantime chrisehaase also reported a PAL NUS-CPU-03-1 Ice Blue funtastic N64:
QuoteUS console:
NS151498299   NUS-CPU-04   NUS-001(USA)   black case

Japanese consoles:
NUJ12905291   NUS-CPU-04   NUS-001(JPN)   black case
NUJ13281975   NUS-CPU-04   NUS-001(JPN)   black case

European consoles:
NUP10434589   NUS-CPU(P)-01   NUS-001(EUR)   black case
NUP11864798   NUS-CPU(P)-01   NUS-001(EUR)   black case
NUP15859106   NUS-CPU(P)-02   NUS-001(EUR)   black case
NUP16157262   NUS-CPU(P)-02   NUS-001(EUR)   transparent light blue case
NUP16764202   NUS-CPU(P)-03-1 NUS-001(EUR)   transparent light blue(upper)/white(lower) case

Other info:
Quote from: Link83 on January 11, 2009, 12:53:43 AMBA6592F SOP24 chip used in the first produced NTSC SNES consoles. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite.
S-ENC SOP24 chip used in early SNES consoles. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite. This is likely either a rebranded BA6592F, or it might be a BA6594F. I originally thought that it might be a BA6593F based on the numbering scheme, but a quick google search doesnt reveal any chip  suppliers with stock for that code so it likely does not exist.
S-ENC B BA6594AF SOP24 chip used in mid-produced SNES consoles. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite and appears to have the same pinout as the BA6592F/S-ENC, so is likely a slightly improved version.

S-RGB BA6595F SOP24 chip used in later SNES consoles. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite and also amplifies and outputs analog RGB.
S-RGB A BA6596F SOP24 chip used in the last produced SNES consoles, the SNES2/SFCJr and an early French N64. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite and also amplifies and outputs analog RGB. Appears to have the same pinout as the BA6595F, so is likely a slightly improved version.

ENC-NUS BA7242F SOP14 chip used in early NTSC N64 consoles. Converts RGB into S-Video and Composite.

After the ENC-NUS Nintendo started using combined DAC/video encoders which are all ROHM custom ASIC parts (DENC-NUS, AVDC-NUS, MAV-NUS, etc)[/quot]

QuoteMotherboard Revision and DAC/Video Encoder Chip List
NTSC N64's

PAL N64's

SNES & N64 Video Encoder Information/Datasheets
Link83 N64 revisions / s-video summary/overview


The NUS-001(FRA) N64 has the S-RGB chip, just like the 1CHIP SNES and SNES2/mini. Only, like with the SNES mini, s-video and RGB aren't connected. I RGB modded mine, but used the VDC chip with booster, since RGB from the S-RGB chip gave me black screen using a Gamecube RGB cable (though I'm having second thoughts on this, so I'd like to verify that).

Next to that I'd like to restore s-video on my NUS-001(FRA) N64 as well. I assume I can follow the SNES mini guide for that as well, though info is a bit shady for me at the moment. Sources I've found: - old complex mod?
QuoteAdding S-video is just as easy as adding RGB. The chroma signal is found on pin 12 of the video encoder, while luma is found on pin 17. As with RGB, each signal needs to go through a 75 ohm resistor (or 100 ohm if you find the image is too bright) before reaching the AV out. Chroma goes to pin 8 of the AV out while luma goes to pin 7.
Mod by izarate (and hey, there's Link83 also again  :) )
QuoteThe components needed are:
- Wire
- 220 uF electrolitic capacitor
- 100 nF polyester capacitor
- 2 75 Ohms resistors
Unfortunately most images are down here.
Mod by Drakon (also images down, unfortunately)
Link83's "SNES & N64 Video Encoder Information/Datasheets"

So so far I don't have much screenshots and only a component list from GamesX (is that article from Lawrence?) and from Izarate at Digitpress, which don't match exactly. If anyone has some more info, I'd love to hear!


There's a difference between Nintendo RGB cables in different regions.  Chances are you're using one with capacitors in it, when there shouldn't be any (or vice versa).

My mod was a hack, from many years ago.  It's not well designed and when I showed it to someone who knows what they're doing, he was surprised it worked.  I doubt I'll be much help if the cable fix doesn't work.


Thanks for replying Lawrence, but I was referring to the s-video fix for the S-RGB encoder as documented for the SNES-mini, on GamesX:
QuoteAdding S-video is just as easy as adding RGB. The chroma signal is found on pin 12 of the video encoder, while luma is found on pin 17. As with RGB, each signal needs to go through a 75 ohm resistor (or 100 ohm if you find the image is too bright) before reaching the AV out. Chroma goes to pin 8 of the AV out while luma goes to pin 7.

Although one source states some other components:
QuoteThe components needed are:
- Wire
- 220 uF electrolitic capacitor
- 100 nF polyester capacitor
- 2 75 Ohms resistors

So this is not about RGB output/cables  :)


Well then, I am confused and of no use to you.  =(


Ah, I found out the wiki article was from ApolloBoy. He replied to my PM:
Quote from: ApolloBoy on March 05, 2014, 06:22:16 PM
Since your N64 uses the same encoder as the SNES mini and 1chip SNES, adding S-video should be a fairly easy process. As I've stated in the wiki, you can add 75 ohm resistors (or 100-150 ohm if you find the resulting image is too bright) to the chroma and luma pins of the encoder and that should do it. The 220 uF cap for luma and 100 nF cap for chroma are optional but it won't hurt to have them in.


Quote from: Shadow_Zero on March 05, 2014, 07:12:58 PM
Ah, I found out the wiki article was from ApolloBoy.
Well technically I didn't write it, I just edited it with some updated information.


Started to read into this.
Quote from: Nintendo64I have 3 of these and am very happy with them:

The only downside is, that games like Goldeneye, Perfect Dark and Super Smash Brothers are not very playable, because the joystick is too sensitive. If you know how to solder (or know anybode who can), you can fix this issue, by replacing the actual joystick (the mechanical part inside), and changing the onboard chip. More informations here:

Apart from this, the joystick works great with almost every game. So if you don't play these games, you do not need to modify anything. If you do play them, I would suggest to add the above modifications to it. After these are done, the joystick will behave like an original N64 controller and will be compatible to every game. I also found a german forum, where the original source code of this joystick has been improved:

A part from those GC Style controllers, I tried a few different N64 Styles, but they all were worse than the GC Style. In the first link I posted, there is also a guideline, where you can see the up and downs of every available option.

What is the difference between the GC style and the N64 Original that we see on Ebay?
Quote from: l_oliveiraNintendo 64 = Optical (
Game Cube = Resitive (

On the N64 moving the stick causes a wheel to spin, interrupting the light that goes through a IR sensor. The controller chip counts the pulses and it's rhythm to determine how much the lever was moved on that axis and which direction it was moved.

On the GC, the controller chip measures a voltage and determines the position of the lever based on the said voltage. 50% of main power voltage = lever on the middle.
Quote from: Electric RainAll third party N64 controllers (that I know of) use pots. The first party controllers use what they call a "Transistor Slotted Interrupter" for each axis.

Quote from: Jeppex83You don't find brand NEW ORIGINAL thumbsticks/joysticks anymore. I have asked almost every contries official Nintendo repairment stores and they dont have them anymore. Luckily I got 2 Brand new pieces at price of 15 EUR. And they was last ones.

Everything that they sell on internet are 3rd party thumbsticks, for examples:

They say: "This is the rounded GameCube style joystick" or "These are a very high quality 3rd party NEW thumbstick"

Photo are taken upwards and they look like original thumbstick, but they are just same like this:

It would be just stupid to buy a big bulk of 3rd party thumbsticks..

You don't find NEW ones anymore, only 3rd party or used ones...
Or if you find new controller/thumbstick, the price would be more than 50USD

Sorry mate

Quote from: ng7I tried the 3rd party replacement stick and wasn't all that impressed with its movement compared to the original.

I decided to try the 'tape' fix as seen in this YouTube video and to my surprise, it worked fairly well. Now don't get me wrong its clearly not as good as it was when it was new but its a marked improvement on how loose it was and is preferable - In my opinion at least to the poor 3rd party sticks and pads.
For the sake of five-ten minutes and a piece of tape (that can be removed if your not happy with the results) its got to be worth a try.

Third Party OEM Thumbsticks; Replacements w/ Original Look and Design:

Lubrication; How do I do it?

What makes the N64 stick prone to wear?
The friction inside the stick to move the potis. Plastik against plastic is no good... in the end, the stick is filled with power, creating dead areas of the stick and it's becomes increasingly loose because its size decreases accordingly to the amount of friction.

PCB's to improve the GC-style replacement stick for the N64

Repair guides:

Buy at:


Stumbled on the SNES plague topic, which I need to give a read:
Maybe it's related to my glitchy modded 1CHIP SNES!


A Nightmare on Elm Street NTSC NES game does not work properly on my PAL NES (lockout disabled). It does work on my SNES with Tristar though. Apparently there are more games with this issue. I'm trying to find out if I can 'fix' this with a converter, so diving into that the coming period!


Quote from: l_oliveira on March 20, 2008, 01:56:52 PM
NTSC NES CPUs run on a 21mhz master clock. (NTSC color carrier clock 6 times)
PAL NES if I am not mistaken runs on 17mhz   (PAL B/G/H/I color carrier clock 4 times)

That alone makes it complicated. The PPU is different because it has different video timmings and require a different clock frequency.
And the CPU is made to run at 17mhz too, so it won't work. Putting a PAL CPU on a NTSC NES will give you a high frequency sound and overclocked CPU/games crashing.  I've tried it myself. Trust me it ain't nice XD.
Quote from: l_oliveira on September 20, 2008, 01:04:10 AM
The PAL nes in truth it doesn't run at 17.734476... In truth it does run at 26.601714 (4.433619 x 6) and in the case of the SNES they use a 17.734476 crystal and a prescaler/pll device to adjust the frequency to PAL color carrier x6.  I bet the PAL NES instead use an actual 26mhz crystal instead. (I've never seen a original PAL NES but I have a PAL CPU/PPU/Crystal  combo from some famiclone I converted to NTSC)


Got a HorElec GameKey converter, but also then the game won't work properly. Someone mentioned Rare programmed their games with timed codes, so it only works on the hardware it was programmed for. The Tri-Star has Famiclone hardware, which is based on the NTSC NES (and apparently with better PAL support), so the game works there.


Oof, it's been a while! But, I got my two FRA N64's out again to RGB mod. Opening up the first, I discover to my surprise I already modded it   XD
But it was the VDC mod + THS7314 amp, which made me wonder why I didn't do the S-RGB mod. Reading back here it seems that I got a black screen when using the S-RGB mod with PAL GC rgb cable (with THS7314 amp I can use any rgb cable, without the screen going black). I do recall the missing component mod had that issue in any case (which was a console I got pre-modded from eBay France). Edit: found that I mentioned getting a dark screen with the S-RGB mod in this topic:

I still need to open the other N64, so wonder if I modded that one as well heh.

I did some reading back here and there and collected some info (also on the csync subject):

"Modding a PAL French N64 for RGB. Also, what cable do I need? (FireAza)" topic from Assemblergames:

Keropi did the N64 FRA S-RGB mod and got a dark picture with his 'PAL GameCube' RGB cable:
Evidence that this mod suffers from the same issue as the first PAL SNES revision with GC RGB cable?

My discussion with Bad_Ad84 concerning N64 RGB + s-video:

Explanation of SFC (NTSC) and PAL GC RGB cables:

"Official Nintendo AV Cables for SNES, N64 and Gamecube - resistors & capacitors?" topic from Link83:

Viletim's diagrams:

RGB32E mentions SHVC-10 uses CV sync (and 220uF caps):

Viletim + Link83 confirm RGB cables with caps don't work with first revision SNES:

Viletim + Link83 confirm 75ohm resistor on Composite and Ground on official PAL GC rgb cable:

Link83 mentioning DC offset on PAL N64 with official SNES and N64 (not GC) composite cable, which don't have caps:

"N64 RGB "Mod" on NUS-001(FRA)" topic on nfggames:

Link83 mentioning NUS-001(FRA) S-RGB is the same as with SNES 1CHIP:

Link83 theorizes on PAL/NTSC RGB differences:

Link83 thinking the PAL GC RGB cable working with the N64 S-RGB mod:

Link83 trying to find the components of 1CHIP SNES:


"There are some early French PAL N64 (NUS-001(FRA) consoles which can be modified for RGB and the GameCube RGB SCART cable is compatible with the console once modified."

though I reckon this is not verified for all mod variations...