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Some weeks ago my scart tv died which I always used for my (rgb) game consoles. Now since having owned this tv my knowledge about technical matters has increased and I've been looking at the best possible display I can afford.

However I've noticed some things with some new scart tv's which I really dislike.

The first tv I tried (Sharp flat screen lastest model) makes changes in the onscreen contrast without my approval (i.e. there is a difference in contrast depending on the  amount of colour on screen). Even summoning the osd drops the contrast of the screen noticeably. Suffice to say I cannot tolerate this. So I tried a Sony flat screen Trinitron (also the newest model).

The contrast is great with this one, but the colours are WAY off. Everything is too yellow. Also when there is repeating flashing the screen "wobbles". Something which even my now broken 10+ year tv doesn't do.

So I read a bit about tv's and learn how consumer sets are basically trash so I wonder if those professional monitors (Pvm, &c) mentioned here on the forum would be a much better choice even though these ones are second hand. Comments from Europeans who have done comparisions much appreciated.

QuoteThe first tv I tried (Sharp flat screen lastest model) makes changes in the onscreen contrast without my approval (i.e. there is a difference in contrast depending on the amount of colour on screen).

That sounds more like a fault than a feature. I remember a TV (I think it was Sharp) that adjusted the contrast automaticaly based on the ambient light level in the room (called Eco-something). But i've never seen a TV than adjusts the contrast based on the actual picture content.

QuoteSo I tried a Sony flat screen Trinitron (also the newest model).
The contrast is great with this one, but the colours are WAY off. Everything is too yellow.

Again, another fault. I'd be very surprised if they were all like that.

QuoteAlso when there is repeating flashing the screen "wobbles".

Do you mean the width changes when there is lots of white on the screen? If so then this is called 'breathing'. All TVs will do it to some extent. If you turn the contrast down to a reasonable level (out of torch mode) the effect will be minimised.

QuoteSo I read a bit about tv's and learn how consumer sets are basically trash so I wonder if those professional monitors (Pvm, &c) mentioned here on the forum would be a much better choice even though these ones are second hand.

Consumer TVs? Trash? Well...consumers seem to be pretty happy with them. And I assure you, professional monitors are still being manufactured. The price of such monitors, however, is generaly way beyond what a sane person would pay for a TV set. I'd be wary of second hand pro monitors. From what I've seen, they are usualy run all day, every day, until they are no longer up to the standard of a pro monitor. Then they are either repaired or sold off.

I honestly don't think it makes a great difference really. If you're just using it for a games monitor then all you need to consider is the quality of the tube and how much time has been spent at the factory setting it up. The premium TV sets on the market offer lots of features but do little to improve on the already pretty good picture quality of a middle-of-the-range TV with an RGB source.

As for recommendations, I personally like the new sets made in Korea by LG and Samsung. They should both have SCART sockets in Europe (here in Australia they pull them out and replace them with phono sockets). Possibly Panasonic too, but very few of their sets have a spot for a SCART. For used sets - go for whatever looks good and don't buy sight unseen. Grundig have made some exceptional TVs in the last 10 years (esp the really big CRT models), might be worth keeping an eye out for (don't buy anything Grundig made within the last few years though!).

You didn't mention what size set you were after...

We yankees use RGB monitors stateside because SCART is just not available in any televisions sold here. I've got four monitors that I've bought from ebay and an electronics liquidator. In my experience there's plenty of opportunity to get a good working monitor. You just have to keep looking and maintain your patience. Many businesses buy monitors like this for use with teleconferencing or presentations. When the presentation is over the monitor gets rolled into a closet for weeks at a time. What you want to look out for are monitors used in medical environments, surgical procedures and etc., they generally look more industrial than others and are the smaller type (20" or less) and are relied on heavily in use for long periods of time before they get put away. They're not difficult to spot and stay away from for the problems they may have though. Some other TV studio monitors that see a lot of work are smaller than anything you would want to use and you would likely avoid them for being 8" anyway.

Your results, especially with the colour issue on the Sony unit, sound faulty to me. LCDs have lower brightness, so if you meant an LCD when you said "flat screen" with respect to the Sharp unit that could have something to do with it. I would be seriously surprised if the professional monitors are doing anything much or made in such a way that  they are substantially better than a SCART RGB TV; some monitors might have a slightly higher dot pitch due to their VGA ability but that is about it. Nothing that would affect the issues you are seeing. Since you do not need to get a professional monitor to do RGB I would not recommend you pursue them. You should have a lot more flexability with a consumer TV, not to mention a much wider selection. Professional RGB monitors lack a lot of features that you will want in a TV so that is another con, especially if you plan to do any program viewing with it in addition to your games. Keep shopping and exploring the options of each TV. If it comes down to it, take your Gamecube/PS2/XBox to the store and ask the salesman if you can demo the unit you are considering. It isn't an unreasonable request and the worst that could happen is they lose your business.

Quote

QuoteThe first tv I tried (Sharp flat screen lastest model) makes changes in the onscreen contrast without my approval (i.e. there is a difference in contrast depending on the amount of colour on screen).

That sounds more like a fault than a feature. I remember a TV (I think it was Sharp) that adjusted the contrast automaticaly based on the ambient light level in the room (called Eco-something). But i've never seen a TV than adjusts the contrast based on the actual picture content.

QuoteSo I tried a Sony flat screen Trinitron (also the newest model).
The contrast is great with this one, but the colours are WAY off. Everything is too yellow.

Again, another fault. I'd be very surprised if they were all like that.

QuoteAlso when there is repeating flashing the screen "wobbles".

Do you mean the width changes when there is lots of white on the screen? If so then this is called 'breathing'. All TVs will do it to some extent. If you turn the contrast down to a reasonable level (out of torch mode) the effect will be minimised.

QuoteSo I read a bit about tv's and learn how consumer sets are basically trash so I wonder if those professional monitors (Pvm, &c) mentioned here on the forum would be a much better choice even though these ones are second hand.

Consumer TVs? Trash? Well...consumers seem to be pretty happy with them. And I assure you, professional monitors are still being manufactured. The price of such monitors, however, is generaly way beyond what a sane person would pay for a TV set. I'd be wary of second hand pro monitors. From what I've seen, they are usualy run all day, every day, until they are no longer up to the standard of a pro monitor. Then they are either repaired or sold off.

I honestly don't think it makes a great difference really. If you're just using it for a games monitor then all you need to consider is the quality of the tube and how much time has been spent at the factory setting it up. The premium TV sets on the market offer lots of features but do little to improve on the already pretty good picture quality of a middle-of-the-range TV with an RGB source.

As for recommendations, I personally like the new sets made in Korea by LG and Samsung. They should both have SCART sockets in Europe (here in Australia they pull them out and replace them with phono sockets). Possibly Panasonic too, but very few of their sets have a spot for a SCART. For used sets - go for whatever looks good and don't buy sight unseen. Grundig have made some exceptional TVs in the last 10 years (esp the really big CRT models), might be worth keeping an eye out for (don't buy anything Grundig made within the last few years though!).

You didn't mention what size set you were after...

My SHARP TV adjusts the contrast automatically based on the contrast of the image being fed to it!
Some SHARP TVs do this and yes, bringing up the OSD does it too!
I don't mind it too much as it only really kicks in on dark scenes, and since all I play is OutRun 2 and Ikaruga which never really has a dark moment I don't notice.
Turning Eco mode on just makes it worse lmao

I completely forgot about the size. My now broken tv is 14" and I'm thinking about buying one around 20" now. With flat screen I mean a flat CRT.

QuoteDo you mean the width changes when there is lots of white on the screen? If so then this is called 'breathing'. All TVs will do it to some extent. If you turn the contrast down to a reasonable level (out of torch mode) the effect will be minimised.

Yeah, that's it. But what the Sony did was more like gasping for breath instead of a gentle inhalation.
Would you know if professional sets do this as well?

QuoteConsumer TVs? Trash? Well...consumers seem to be pretty happy with them. And I assure you, professional monitors are still being manufactured. The price of such monitors, however, is generaly way beyond what a sane person would pay for a TV set. I'd be wary of second hand pro monitors. From what I've seen, they are usualy run all day, every day, until they are no longer up to the standard of a pro monitor. Then they are either repaired or sold off.

I honestly don't think it makes a great difference really. If you're just using it for a games monitor then all you need to consider is the quality of the tube and how much time has been spent at the factory setting it up. The premium TV sets on the market offer lots of features but do little to improve on the already pretty good picture quality of a middle-of-the-range TV with an RGB source.

As for recommendations, I personally like the new sets made in Korea by LG and Samsung. They should both have SCART sockets in Europe (here in Australia they pull them out and replace them with phono sockets). Possibly Panasonic too, but very few of their sets have a spot for a SCART. For used sets - go for whatever looks good and don't buy sight unseen. Grundig have made some exceptional TVs in the last 10 years (esp the really big CRT models), might be worth keeping an eye out for (don't buy anything Grundig made within the last few years though!).

You didn't mention what size set you were after...

Oh, I meant second hand for them to be available cheaper. I know these are still made.

It is a habit of mine to use words too strong. I have an absolute abhorence for seeing things that are less than is possible to achieve (or is already achieved). What I meant (especially since what I've seen) is that consumer sets are aimed at the mass. And thus are made so people can watch their soap operas and their pan and scan movies on their sets consisting of low grade components. These people are indeed happy.

Also another thing with the Sharp I forgot to mention is that the dot pitch at the left and right of the screen was wider than the middle. I kid you not!

I'm going to a store tomorrow and I'll check out some of the brands you mentioned. Here in Europe simply ALL the sets have at least one SCART input. Only cheap small mono sets don't, so I think Panasonic will be good here. I'll let you know.

QuoteProfessional RGB monitors lack a lot of features that you will want in a TV so that is another con, especially if you plan to do any program viewing with it in addition to your games. Keep shopping and exploring the options of each TV. If it comes down to it, take your Gamecube/PS2/XBox to the store and ask the salesman if you can demo the unit you are considering. It isn't an unreasonable request and the worst that could happen is they lose your business.

I'm only going to use it for the RGB input even if I buy a TV, that's why I thought about the monitor option.

I can't say I'm that modern. It is mostly for my Genesis.

Tried a Samsung (flat screen CRT) as to your recommendation, no Panasonic there in that range unfortunately, and experienced the following six things:

1. The colours are again off, only not as much as with the Sony.

2. There were imperfections (faint bar like spots) at the top left and right of the screen.

3. Switching the input from 50 to 60hz changed the colour saturation (i.e. having set it for 50hz I need to readjust it when using 60hz and vice versa).

4. The dot pitch is bigger near the edge of the screen like the Sharp. Looking closely in the store there doesn't seem to be a model which doesn't have this.

5. Faint vertical lines running through the screen when using 60hz input (NTSC compatible tv as per the manual).

6. Adjustments are too abrupt. From (saturation example) 52 to 51 to 50 to 49 almost nothing happens and then from 49 to 48 a sudden drop.


Again a faulty set? I seriously doubt it.

The Sharp tv's there I tried to see if they do the contrast shift aswell and they do in fact. *shudder*

I think I was too mild when calling these sets trash. Utter trash seems more appropriate. I'm going back in two weeks with my Genesis (good idea that) and I'll try all sets in that range before deciding on a more expensive solution.

i have a 68cm panasonic flat screen, being in australia, it doesnt have scart.. i am very happy with this tv however, it looks very nice running component, and even quite nice running composite, i have svideo coming from my pc then mixed into composite using a capacitor, then going into the tv as composite, and it looks extremely nice concidering that my pc usually outputs a pile of crap signal.. on top of that it runs ntsc, pal, and i think secam, but i've never tried that.
the one problem i have had, is that the factory didnt spend quite as much time setting it up as i'd have liked, i spent the best part of an hour setting up the colour and everything else, plus when running 60Hz, the top and bottom are cut off slightly because they didnt bother to set it up for 60 properly. the same happened with my old sharp, but i found how to access the service menu on that, so i fixed it.. with this however, i havnt got a clue how to access the service menu.

if you get a panasonic, look on the net first, make sure you can find how to access the service menu on that specific model before you buy it, otherwise take in your gamecube and start it up in 60Hz mode in the shop (hold b while starting up the cube and with most games itll ask if you want 50 or 60) so you can see if youre happy with the aspect ratio for 60.
keep in mind if you mess up while in the service menu and need a pro to correct your mistakes, it wont be covered under warrenty.

i like panasonic alot, see if there are any with scart

QuoteTried a Samsung (flat screen CRT) as to your recommendation, no Panasonic there in that range unfortunately, and experienced the following six things:

Maybe a flatscreen TV isn't the best choice. Standard CRT sets have simpler deflection systems - they don't have to do a lot of compensation for the lack of screen curvature. I also reccomend you bring your genesis into the shop (or wherever) and plug it in. See how the set acts as a monitor rather than a receiver.

Quote1. The colours are again off, only not as much as with the Sony.

You mean one of the three guns is too high or low? Well...you could always enter survice mode and adjust it yourself.

Quote3. Switching the input from 50 to 60hz changed the colour saturation (i.e. having set it for 50hz I need to readjust it when using 60hz and vice versa).

This one is moot because RGB doesn't have 'colour' (chroma). When you feed an RGB signal to a TV you bypass the majority of the signal processing circuitry. The signal is simply amplified and sent to the CRT. RGB should always resault in perfect colour - at least in theory.

Quote4. The dot pitch is bigger near the edge of the screen like the Sharp. Looking closely in the store there doesn't seem to be a model which doesn't have this.

You're right! I just had a look at the 2001 non-flat Samsung TV I've got sitting outside and the stripe pitch (that's what they call it when refering to an precision in line tube) does vary, slightly. I've never notices that before. Here's what my old TAFE notes say about it: Pitch Grading
 To insure correct purity at the screen edges and corners a reduced beam landing tolerance can be provided by decreasing the size of the mask apertures here. The presence and degree of this "pitch-grading" varies with different makers and types of tube. In current FS tubes a grading factor of 20 per cent is applied at the screen edges. The consequent 20 per cent loss of brightness goes virtually unnoticed by the human eye, largely because of the very gradual transition.
Well...there you go..

Maybe a used pro monitor would be more to your likeing...it'll certainly have the breathing under control (better high voltage regulation) and you'll get a higher stripe pritch too. Maybe not as much contrast as a consumer TV though.

Quotei have a 68cm panasonic flat screen, being in australia, it doesnt have scart.. i am very happy with this tv however, it looks very nice running component, and even quite nice running composite, i have svideo coming from my pc then mixed into composite using a capacitor, then going into the tv as composite, and it looks extremely nice concidering that my pc usually outputs a pile of crap signal.. on top of that it runs ntsc, pal, and i think secam, but i've never tried that.
the one problem i have had, is that the factory didnt spend quite as much time setting it up as i'd have liked, i spent the best part of an hour setting up the colour and everything else, plus when running 60Hz, the top and bottom are cut off slightly because they didnt bother to set it up for 60 properly. the same happened with my old sharp, but i found how to access the service menu on that, so i fixed it.. with this however, i havnt got a clue how to access the service menu.

if you get a panasonic, look on the net first, make sure you can find how to access the service menu on that specific model before you buy it, otherwise take in your gamecube and start it up in 60Hz mode in the shop (hold b while starting up the cube and with most games itll ask if you want 50 or 60) so you can see if youre happy with the aspect ratio for 60.
keep in mind if you mess up while in the service menu and need a pro to correct your mistakes, it wont be covered under warrenty.

i like panasonic alot, see if there are any with scart

Panasonic simply are, the masters! Like how I read that article on how their Dvd players were the first to not give de-interlacing errors!

QuoteMaybe a flatscreen TV isn't the best choice. Standard CRT sets have simpler deflection systems - they don't have to do a lot of compensation for the lack of screen curvature. I also reccomend you bring your genesis into the shop (or wherever) and plug it in. See how the set acts as a monitor rather than a receiver.

Unfortunately flat screen CRTs dominate here; I'll see if maybe I can find a "normal" tube in a bigger or smaller set should the difference be great.

QuoteYou mean one of the three guns is too high or low? Well...you could always enter survice mode and adjust it yourself.

I've glanced at a Sony service manual once and while I'm not illiterate concerning technical matters I'll have to read up on A LOT of things before I can understand what all those values do exactly. If it comes down to it then I guess I will.

Also comparing colours I can manage, but when I try to calibrate a monitor my eyes play tricks on me. I guess that is the reason there is special equipment for it.

QuoteThis one is moot because RGB doesn't have 'colour' (chroma). When you feed an RGB signal to a TV you bypass the majority of the signal processing circuitry. The signal is simply amplified and sent to the CRT. RGB should always resault in perfect colour - at least in theory.

I have read about that on the forum here, but I think this setting is something different. When using NTSC on the Samsung it was possible to adjust a setting called "Tint". It said 50G 50R when the setting was in the middle. Adjusting it didn't do anything (probably because of the RGB). When using PAL the setting was grayed out.
I think this is the setting referred to not having any use for RGB signals.

The setting I referred to is called colour saturation (dictionary:  Vividness of hue; degree of difference from a gray of the same lightness or brightness. Also called intensity. Nice Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturation%20...lor%20theory%29) or simply colour. I've seen it having influence, on multiple sets, even when RGB signals are used.

QuoteMaybe a used pro monitor would be more to your likeing...it'll certainly have the breathing under control (better high voltage regulation) and you'll get a higher stripe pritch too. Maybe not as much contrast as a consumer TV though.

Could you explain what you mean with the amount of contrast? I always adjust the contrast so it is just below the point of blooming; will a tv set at this value have more contrast than an adjusted pro monitor?


to phreak:

Since you say you have been unable to find the service code for your Panasonic tv does that mean that even if you call or write the appropriate company, tell them you understand the consequences (failure of set when used incorrectly, voidance of warranty) they still will not give it?

Being able to post without registering (very nice and kind option though) made me forget to log in.  

QuoteI've glanced at a Sony service manual once and while I'm not illiterate concerning technical matters I'll have to read up on A LOT of things before I can understand what all those values do exactly. If it comes down to it then I guess I will.

Sony's service modes are very crude, but it's usualy not difficult to adjust. You'll need a copy of the set's service manual for reference.

QuoteAlso comparing colours I can manage, but when I try to calibrate a monitor my eyes play tricks on me. I guess that is the reason there is special equipment for it.

That's a good point. If it's so subtle that you can't see the problem without a known good one next to it then it's probably best to leave it alone.

QuoteThe setting I referred to is called colour saturation (dictionary: Vividness of hue; degree of difference from a gray of the same lightness or brightness. Also called intensity. Nice Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturation%20...or%20theory%29) or simply colour. I've seen it having influence, on multiple sets, even when RGB signals are used.

For standard video (yellow phono) the colour information (choma, C) and video information (luma, Y) are stored in different 'parts' of the signal. They are seperated inside the TV (or input already seperated in case of s-video). The chroma then goes on to be seperated into it's two parts, U (R-Y) and V (B-Y) which then goes on to be converted to R G and B. The colour control lets you adjust the amplitude of the chroma before it's processed, usualy to compensate for losses in the cables/system up to that point.

The colour control won't do anything with an RGB input....there's nothing to adjust. There is no intensity signal, just red, green and blue. Have a look at the RGB colour model.

QuoteCould you explain what you mean with the amount of contrast?

Sure, Pro monitor = higher resoloution (horizontal) = higher desity slot mask (or apature grill on a trinitron, or dot mask on a delta gun)  = smaller holes the electrons have to pass through to get at the phosphor = more electrons hit the slot mask = less will hit the phosphor = less contrast. Whether it really makes much of a difference I can't say.

QuoteI always adjust the contrast so it is just below the point of blooming; will a tv set at this value have more contrast than an adjusted pro monitor?

I can't really say. I've got a pro monitor around here somewhere but it's got a special 'long persistance phosphor' picture tube in it so it's probably not a good test subject.

Quote

Quote
The colour control won't do anything with an RGB input....there's nothing to adjust. There is no intensity signal, just red, green and blue. Have a look at the RGB colour model.

Actually, a few sets do allow you to adjust the saturation levels from RGB input, not sure how they do it though (I have one that does and two that don't and it is RGB because it works the Dreamcast RGB SCART which will show up as complete black on a TV that doesn't support RGB because it sends no composite video along the scart with the RGB).

QuoteFor standard video (yellow phono) the colour information (choma, C) and video information (luma, Y) are stored in different 'parts' of the signal. They are seperated inside the TV (or input already seperated in case of s-video). The chroma then goes on to be seperated into it's two parts, U (R-Y) and V (B-Y) which then goes on to be converted to R G and B. The colour control lets you adjust the amplitude of the chroma before it's processed, usualy to compensate for losses in the cables/system up to that point.

The colour control won't do anything with an RGB input....there's nothing to adjust. There is no intensity signal, just red, green and blue. Have a look at the RGB colour model.

It all sounds great, but the fact remains that I've never encountered a set which acted this way.

QuoteSure, Pro monitor = higher resoloution (horizontal) = higher desity slot mask (or apature grill on a trinitron, or dot mask on a delta gun) = smaller holes the electrons have to pass through to get at the phosphor = more electrons hit the slot mask = less will hit the phosphor = less contrast. Whether it really makes much of a difference I can't say.

Ah, I understand. It will be like the contrast of my high def PC monitor then. I like the contrast on that thing better than my TV anyhow (no blooming even at very high values), so I guess I will enjoy that.

QuoteActually, a few sets do allow you to adjust the saturation levels from RGB input, not sure how they do it though

That's interesting....

Last night I tested three tvs (a Teac, an Akai, and a JVC - all about middle aged) I had lying around. All three had non-adjustable colour in RGB mode as I expected. Today, at the workshop, I played around with few tvs on test (a Loewe and two Grundigs) and found that on all three of them the colour was adjustable - from black and white to super oversaturated.

The three sets I tested in the workshop all digitise the analog signal for processing, then convert it to analog again to to feed the picture tube. None of my sets do any sort of digital processing, it's all analog (the Akai doesn't even have an OSD). So that seem to be it, once you digitise a signal you can do pretty much whatever you like to it.

It all seems a bit pointless to me though, if the signal has perfect colour when it goes in then who would want to play with it (heh.. probably the same people who listed to music with the bass all the way up). Adding a control for it just causes extra problems (like Paper observed).

Neat! They should add a passthrough option.

Well, I went to the store Friday and besides encountering a salesman who laughed when he saw my Genesis this is what I found out.

I tried a Sony, two Philips models (one a dvd combo) and a JVC. The rest of the models in that size range (20") were all very cheap (Finlux, Daewoo, &c).

First I tried the JVC which was pretty horrible. The stripe pitch was not only different at the right and left of the screen, but also at the top and the bottom (and very largely so). Also the colours seemed "raw" (that's the best word I can find) besides being off.

Next I tried a Philips and this one was a real suprise (I now understand why the thing is so much more expensive). The image was perfect (no lines (see below)), no stripe pitch problems and minimal breathing. Yet the colours were again off, but the Philips model with the dvd player (same tube) had correct colours. I guess that really shows the amount of time spent in the factory on these things.

The Philips dvd combo had a strange fault. The whole of the image was blurred, but not in a uniform way (pointing to noise reduction or something). Even the OSD was blurred (more smeared out to the right). Also the image was not stable in 60hz. I asked the salesman about it, but he was not helpful. I really think that set is broken.

The Sony set had a function in the user menu to h-center a RGB signal. Nice option that.

Having seen them all I decided on the Philips (without dvd). I'll take my chances adjusting the colours myself. Unfortunately it was sold out so I'll have to wait a bit.


Having seen now so many different sets I started noticing something odd about the Genesis video output (or atleast just my system).
On some tv sets there appear lines, but through some colours only. Mostly medium to dark colours (blue seems the biggest offender), but colours nearing white do not have them at all. These lines appear stronger in 60hz than 50hz, besides the spacing of the lines being different in 50hz.

The Philips set did not show the lines whatsoever not did the Sharp (yet these are sets very different in quality), but the other sets did more or less (Sony and Samsung very strong). This really made me doubt as to the source of the problem, yet the problem, when it shows, always looks the same; being only different in intensity.

I tried other methods of connection (as I always use RGB) and the lines do not show when using RF. But the signal produced by RF is so poor these faint lines may simply be obscured. Next I tried composite and then the lines show at some places and as expected much fainter than with RGB.

When using RF or composite and switching to 60hz the black & white video signal looks really strange. Look at these pictures from djoens website.

50hz


60hz


So I thought about the crystal producing these lines, yet in 50hz these lines are there as well (only fainter). Also the lines in the black & white 60hz composite signal are all over the screen and not only running through some colours.

I thought about the RGB cables, yet the lines are there when using composite also.
These lines are really very faint and I have been unable as yet to make a picture. If
anyone has any idea as to the source of this problem I'd like to hear it.

I use a MD to SCART cable without any resistors or capacitors.

I don't know if this entirely applies but I get the same problem to on a RGB picture.  Most of my equipment is effected by this except the stuff which I have wired custom RGB to.  This includes my SNES (the Nintedno A/V port is just terrible), my MD1 and MS1 (made a adapter from the sega's av to my cable) and my Neo-MVS board.

This cable has a scart at one end (no caps or resistors except the 5v line) and a regular 6-pin din at the other end and they are connected using a phono cable wire (I get a ton of them at work so I's just lops the molded connectors off and I end up with a shielded cable ^_^) for each signal including the 5v signal.  The cable looks ugly but I get no interferance on blue at all.

Thanks for that.

Rewiring is a necessary option to consider. I'll try shielded cable when I do so.


Edit: Choice of words.

As there must be other people for whom the old threads on this forum are as valuable as to me I hereby post to conclude this topic.

I mentioned I settled for the Philips, taking my chance with the colours, which I picked up some weeks ago.

As expected the colours where "off" like in the store, so I went to work.

Found the service code and started adjusting the R, G, B, values to see what would happen. Learned very quickly that this was not causing the seen problem. The cannons were off too, but this was something quite separate.

So, I started reflecting.
Many probable causes came to mind, but they could either be refuted of were farfetched.
Old Blaupunkt right colours. New Sharp right colours. New Sony wrong colours, but other new Sony (pretty much the same model) right colours. New Philips wrong colours, but new Philips DVD combo (same tube) right colours. I was dumbfounded!

At one point the idea formed to add the resistors and caps. Added the components today and the problem is solved. Also the vertical lines, mostly seen in blue, are dimished that much to be completely unnoticable.

I see now that my description of the problem as "too yellow" was woefully inadequate.
But reading other threads about the same problem I see it can join the list.
"Oversaturation", "colours are just not right", "too bright", "too strong", and the right term "overdriven" are some examples.

If you are looking for a new (European) TV, and are as picky as me, here is what I learned:

-Try out every TV you can get your hands on. Go to (the) store(s) with your system for even more sets to try. There are immense differences between brands and even between different models from the same brand. Hell, even different production series of the same model may differ.

-Most TVs have atleast one major quirk, whether self-adjusting contrast in the Sharp or excessive breathing in another. Small quirks are numerous and pretty much unavoidable. Be prepared to go for the set the least obnoxious instead of a perfect one.

-If you want to make lots of fine adjustments on your future set, be sure the service menu is exhaustive enough beforehand.

And a general one:

-Follow the specifications of a manufacturer. If a datasheet mentions certain parts which are nowhere to be found, add them. It may work fine on one TV, it will not work fine on all.