KV-27FV310 T.V. (with RGB to ypbpr) work with Midway 53hz games? Hack RGB input

Started by Holering, September 22, 2008, 11:43:01 AM

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Holering

Hey would like to know if this 27" t.v. KV-27FV310 works with midway games such as mortal kombat, nba jam etc that run at 53hz? I've read some places that sony t.v.'s don't work with these games but I would really like to know for this particular set.

Could I cut, hack and solder an rgb input on this american t.v. (or any other american-U.S.A. t.v.). Any schematics? If I could do that I would be in rgb heaven with this thing!

I noticed in the service menu there's adjustments for the vsync and hsync which really makes me curious (could I actally change those to be workable-match the midway games 53hz?). Theres also other settings for changing the position of the screen and size (there's a load of other settings too). I actually noticed on my dreamcast when playing Mortal Kombat Gold I could shrink the size of the screen to make it look kinda squashed and I could see extra lines on the top and bottom of the screen!!! How high of a resolution does this game run at and how many others run so high! it's like 640X576 or wth?! This T.V. does look beautiful with component but it could look a little better if someone could tell me how to disable the color processing... Otherwise no biggie (sound actually has a subwoofer and booms too lol). This T.V. would be perfect for an arcade cabinet and it looks better than so many arcade monitors out there

BTW I also don't get how some people can say that after converting rgb to ypbpr, it looks no better than svideo... This is so untrue! My games look so much better using the component input on this t.v. using $85 rgb to ypbpr and every thing is so much more defined, no color bleeding, and the reds are like so red now along with the greens and blues (yeah these colors look beautiful now). Nothing looks stale or muddy anymore (very oubvious on dreamcast games when using a gold plated svideo cable. This cheapo rgb cable looks so much better and the svideo is so fat and of high quality build it still looks so much worse lol).

If you guys get a chance look at this (great pics too for being from a camera! Looks way better in person though! the pics might not show until you click on them) http://www.1up.com/do/blogEntry?publicUserId=5443843&bId=5909254
this t.v. looks almost identical to mine except it's japanese and has a japanese 21 pin scart input. Also this guy seems to be experiencing the dreaded sound noise that I'm dealing with (trying to get help on that in another thread...)

I also would like to know from anyone with experience with this set or a similar one what option in the service menu (if there is any) disables any color processing what so ever. I'm also pretty sure that the "DynaBlack" option in the regular menu disables chrominance-luminance processing (am I right?). Would really like to know if I could install-solder a female rgb plug on this thing (any kind along with stereo phono plugs) or any t.v. with schematics-diagrams. That would be truly awesome and wouldn't that bypass any kind of color-chrominance-luminance processing?!

EDIT:
WTH how come there's vote options... I just wanted to start a regular thread wth... How do I change it to normal?

NFG


viletim

Quote from: Holering on September 22, 2008, 11:43:01 AM
Could I cut, hack and solder an rgb input on this american t.v. (or any other american-U.S.A. t.v.). Any schematics? If I could do that I would be in rgb heaven with this thing!

I don't know anything about your particular TV but in general it's possible to hack a decent RGB input into any TV. Unfortunately, if you have to ask, it's probably beyond your abilities.

A good RGB -> component converter will look almost as good as a real RGB input anyway.

Holering

Quote from: viletim on September 23, 2008, 01:38:53 AM

I don't know anything about your particular TV but in general it's possible to hack a decent RGB input into any TV. Unfortunately, if you have to ask, it's probably beyond your abilities.

A good RGB -> component converter will look almost as good as a real RGB input anyway.

Well how is that gonna help me with that kinda answer? If it's so obvious why can't you just point me to the right direction? I would really like to know

Edit:
Well I ripped open this 1990 t.v. from my motorhome. I think the more interesting piece is the small pcb that plugs in behind the light bulb behind the screen. There's what might be RGB lines on it.. Each wire going into this small pcb is labeled C1 for red wire, C2 for blue wire, C3 for green wire, c4 for black wire, and c5 for purple wire. Anyone familiar with this? Also what channel would I have to set the t.v. on or would that even matter? This t.v. only has rf input... Help?

viletim

Quote from: Holering on September 23, 2008, 06:21:08 AM
Quote from: viletim on September 23, 2008, 01:38:53 AM

I don't know anything about your particular TV but in general it's possible to hack a decent RGB input into any TV. Unfortunately, if you have to ask, it's probably beyond your abilities.

A good RGB -> component converter will look almost as good as a real RGB input anyway.

Well how is that gonna help me with that kinda answer? If it's so obvious why can't you just point me to the right direction? I would really like to know

All TVs work on the same basic prinicples but the circuits are often very different to one another. If you don't take these differences into account then your chance of success are greatly reduced (you may end up with an RGB input that doesn't look any good).

For an input to this board the video signal has to be clamped (fixed to a referance voltage) and amplified. Your reference voltage will set the brightness and the gain of you amplifier will set the contrast. Actual values vary a lot between different TVs.

If you can hook up an oscilloscope to one of the video lines you'll be able to see exactly what you need to do to your input signal.

If I were doing this I'd build a video amp around the TLS1233. It's easy to obtain and it has three channels with adjustable gain and DC offset, and a built in clamper. The clamper needs a clamp pulse (a trigger signal for when the video is in the 'back porch' region) which can be found in the bowels of the TV's analog video circuitry (with the aid of your circuit diagram and CRO).

It's not impossible, but as you don't know where to begin, you're going to need a complete circuit diagram of your TV, an oscilloscope to see what's going on, and a lot of time on your hands to learn about TV video signals and amplifiers.

And one thing I should mention... If the TV is of the 'hot chassis' variety, identified by the lack of A/V inputs, isolating caps on the RF input, and big letters on the back CHASSIS LIVE CONTACT IS DANGEROUS then forget about it. These were quite common in the early '90s.

undamned

"Don't need to ask my name to figure out how cool I am."

frylock77

Just thought I'd let everybody know, I've been having this problem for months, and I just solved it tonight! I bought a newer 27" JVC TV and it WORKS!!! Aparently JVC's are able to sync to that weird 53Hz thing. JVC, you rule! ;D