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Started by Bostich, August 29, 2005, 08:22:17 AM
Quote from: baku on August 11, 2011, 11:01:06 PMHi Live_Steam_Mad, I'm the author of that Website.Excuse me. I'm not good at English.
Quote from: Drakon on August 16, 2011, 12:30:23 PMBeen ages since I posted here. I've been building these systems as commissions. I made some interesting discoveries.5: The regular top loader nes 2 that comes with rf only with jailbars in the rf (nesn-cpu-01) has just as clean of a picture as the av famicom when you rgb mod the nes 2
Quote from: Hamburglar on October 24, 2010, 01:22:18 PMThe funny thing is the nicest picture I got from a RGB NES was from a NES top loader, even my AV Famicom has slight vertical bars.One thing I never got around to trying was getting rid of that RF converter/regulator box and redoing the voltage regulator section.
Quote from: Live_Steam_Mad on August 09, 2011, 01:39:39 PMHi Markus, you mentioned on another topic in this forum "I received the PPU from VS. Top Gun yesterday. The Chip is similar labled like the PPU from Famicom Titler and it hold the NES Homesystem colorpalette" Do you mean that this PPU from VS. Top Gun is RGB output but has the Composite PPU's color palette? If so, I am very interested
Quote from: Salamander on August 22, 2011, 12:57:37 AM@Live_Steam_Mad: First part sounds like a ground issue, are pins 4 and 21(chasis) of your SCART socket also grounded? Second part does sound like graphical glitching because of the missing cap. The playchoice 10 hardware has a 68pf cap in place between pin 24 of the PPU and ground, you'll want to add that (do not lift pins). It's normal for the chip to heat up during use but as you can see most of these PPU no longer have the heat sinks and some, like the Titler, don't even come with one. Unless it gets so hot that you can't keep your finger on it for more than a couple seconds, don't worry about it.
Quote from: Salamander on August 22, 2011, 08:13:59 AM@Live_Steam_Mad: About the mixed audio fed into 2 RCA connectors, have you grounded the chasis/ring on both of these? Additional grounds inside the SCART socket can be made common to the NES PCB (usually pins 4, 18 and 21 but you could also include 5, 9, 13, 17). If you are set on heatsinking the PPU then you need to remove the existing epoxy to get a clean working surface. From there you'd need to use an adhesive rather than a thermal paste to get a strong bond. The epoxy can be removed using a hair dryer and the edge of a sharp knife or razor blade, just work slowly and don't overheat the chip (unsocket it from the PCB and away from the NES when you do this).
Quote from: Salamander on August 23, 2011, 07:46:52 AMIt's an epoxy resin. Nintendo used something nearly identical to cover SMD chips in the Wii which is how I know it can be removed using heat and a sharp knife. I cleaned mine off just to make it pretty.