Making controller adapter modules & generic pads

Started by o-o, August 26, 2005, 11:30:30 AM

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o-o

I need to find out some things related to making controller adapter modules [similar to those shown in the pic below] and generic-modding controllers (and what controllers exist to best use for the module-making purpose..)  If there are faqs for any of these Id like to check them out but I havent been able to find sufficient information..

Thanks



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cable types:
What options are there of cable types that could be used?

(basic '25pin D-plug')
but those dont seem like they would stay plugged in very well/sturdy/solidly without screw-tightening them, which would be kindof a huge hassle doing over and over.. wouldnt it?

Im also wary of the cables (types) being too stiff/bulky
(effecting the authentic feel effect of an NES/SNES etc.. controllers)

Are there more/other practical options? (or is there basically one type/thickness of the 25pin d-plug/whatever cable that Ive heard is commonly used?)

(I was thinking of cutting 25+pin extension cables of some sort in half, using one half for the generic-modded controllers, and the other half for the controller module instead of using jacks, so there would hopefully be much less wiring..)



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boxes to use:
what is a good type/source of small black boxes to used for controller modules..?


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How can (controller encoder IC) chips best be removed without damaging the chip (or PCB)?  [is using-up desoldering wick the best way?]


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How can analog direction pad(signal) be converted to (send as) digital..(as digital direction pad)?   And would it be simple to add 'sensitivity' control? (using a dual-head potentiometer perhaps??)


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What is the common/best cable pinout arrangement to use? (is there a standard info page about this?) [might as well be compatible with other peoples configurations..]



*
Does anyone know of any PS2 controllers having selectable rapidfire which functions like: press rapidfire-assign button, then press button(s) to assign rapidfire to, then press the rapidfire-assign button again to confirm.  Allowing for some/multiple buttons to be rapidfire and the rest to not be rapidfire. Only requiring one assign button, rather than a bunch of individual switches...




If anyone (has or) is interested in doing any related mod work (or supplying the materials needed) for trade, here is my trade/want list:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=49230.0


o-o

I did, Im looking for more specific info than that, such as the full generic pinout list for PS2/Xbox.. (including the extra buttons, rumble, analog sticks..)

thanks

krawhitham

#3
QuoteI did, Im looking for more specific info than that, such as the full generic pinout list for PS2/Xbox.. (including the extra buttons, rumble, analog sticks..)

thanks
the xbox is usb

http://www.redcl0ud.com/xbox_wiring.html

o-o

thanks but Im not looking for the POST(after)-encoder pinout..
I want to know what a full *standardized* PRE-encoder generic wire pinout for Xbox/PS2 would be... (for using 25pin cable/plug etc...)  [for using with adapter modules mentioned..]

kendrick

The universal control boxes you have shown at the bottom of your original post don't really conform to any recognized standard, do they? It's pretty much just using sequential pins on the 25D connector that feeds into the encoder contained in the box. Anybody who built one could rig any of the connections to correspond to any input, and as long as the right buttons were hooked up to the right pins on the encoder then it would work.

Put simply, we don't know. If you want to build one, you should roll your own and make sure that any encoder boxes you build accept the same input. There's no standard, so you have the freedom (or the burden) of creating your own pinout.

-KKC, who still hasn't got around to building a set of Twin Sticks.

phreak97

the easiest way to do something like this, is to put the whole controller pcb in the black box, then you dont need to know the endocer pinout at all, just solder directly to the active contact for each button, theres nothing to it. then you dont have to worry about messing up the ic, which in the case of many third party controllers is actually built onto the board anyway and wont ever come off in a usable state.

as for the analogue, i dont know alot about it, but if you use the same value pots in your stick as are in the original controller you should be fine, i dont know how itll act if you change the value, it may work ok or it may not, i cant say.

o-o


Right, you could use any pinout.. (if you stuck to it yourself).  Seems like it would be good, worth it, and easy enough to agree on a standardized basic pinout though, based on _some_ kind of logic..

I didnt make those in the picture.  Id like to find/contact who did, but I dont remember where that picture is originally from... (thought it was here)

I was hoping to find other people interested in this, and I thought there were or would be more.. (are there other/better forums for this sort of thing?) I thought this was much more commonly done..  

(still looking for the info on the questions in the first post)
Thanks


phreak97

if you read all the posts, all the information you need is there. controller mods are done commonly enough, but not exactly like this, the only part that is different here however is the encoder being seperate to the controller. you dont need a pinout for the controller at all, just do what i said in my other post. i have done it myself so i know it's fine. and it was also said that you dont have to have a standard pinout for the 25 pin connector, you can make up your own, and so long as you write it down tso you remember it, itll work fine.
as for the analogue, when most people make arcade sticks with this kind of rig, theyre not analogue, arcade sticks are typically digital, so there probably arent many predecessors for a universal analogue stick.. if this is your first project, i'd get comfortable with everything else before you try this. i mean, it's possible that 10k pots will work for most controllers, and they probably would.. but theres no guarentee,

soldering to buttons: you only have to have one wire from each active button pad, and one wire that goes from ground to the other end of all your switches (arcade buttons, or whatever youre using), kind of a daisy chain effect..

try doing one controller, and solder to the button pads like i said. if you run into troubles, post them here and we'll try to help.

if there are still unanswered questions, re-ask them, and be specific.