RGB Modding a Version 3 PlayStation2

[RARusk]

I finally sat down and did my RGB mod, which included the installation of a 15-pin plug, to my Version 3 PlayStation 2. The mod is to tap into the RGB video and Separate Sync signals straight from the motherboard (at specific points) to get around issues like Sync-On-Green (for Progressive Scan use), Component Video Forceback (when playing DVD's), and MacroVision. Some of my earlier research can be found here http://nfg.2y.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1282.

Despite my planning it ended up being more of a pain than I expected. For starters, the version 3 motherboard was WAY different than the version 4. My initial plan was to mod the case from my version 4, for the 15-pin plug, and then put the version 3 in it after modding. That went out the window when I opened up the version 3 unit. Instead of a one board setup like the version 4, the version 3 had several mini-boards and lots of ribbon cable. Why does Sony have to make things complicated?

Then the 96/4 solder that I raved about in my previous PS2 RGB post would not work when it counted. It worked very well on everything else but when I tried to solder the wires to the sync points, which was the top of the junction holes that connect a trace from the top side of the motherboard with the bottom side of the motherboard, it refused to work. Over and over again I tried to make it work but it refused to stay. I did exactly what I was doing on my version 4 board which I used for practice but it still would not work. After about two hours of frustration, I reverted to my CircuitWriter/Epoxy method and found points near the sync mixing chip that I could use. I still don't know why the solder refused to work on the V3 board. I also damaged the Composite Sync trace leading from the mixing chip (where the Horizontal and Vertical Sync are mixed to create Composite Sync) to the other side of the board but I fixed that with CircuitWriter.

To make matters worse, when trying to assemble the unit, I managed to punch a hole straight through the long silver strip that connects the reset/drive buttons to the main board. So I had to do a workaround using seven long wires to replace the now useless silver strip.

When I got the unit working again I did extensive tests (with separate and composite sync) using several different discs. I also went back to my V4 board and played around some more trying to figure what I may have done wrong in my soldering. I found out that you can actually stick a 30-gauge wire into the junction holes far enough for it to stay. It won't go all the way through and you can only enter from one side (because the gunk that clogs the holes settles on one side during making of the board) but it would work well enough to secure and solder a wire to a junction hole. So I decided to reopen my V3 unit to undo my work and make things right instead of using the CircuitWriter stuff.

And I should have left well enough alone. I only made things much worse. In the end I had to reuse the CircuitWriter and Epoxy to restablish the Horizontal and Vertical Sync contacts but I damaged the area around the sync mixing chip to the point that Composite Sync cannot be mixed into the standard video signals. This means that my V3 PS2 can do ONLY RGB but not Component Video, S-Video, and Composite Video.

But all is not lost. I read through a topic thread at AtariAge.com that discussed S-Video for the 7800. In it it has a link to http://www.neobitz.com/Pages/Mods/SystemMods.aspx which has a board that will allow you to convert RGB to Component Video/S-Video/Composite Video. It may be designed to be used for a NeoGeo but I think it can be used on everything else that outputs RGB. Maybe it might work for VGA (think DreamCast - for Progressive Scan Component Video).

However, I completed all of my video testing before this snafu. I think you'll find the results interesting. But first the plug itself.....

[RARusk]

Below is the plug (which is on the right side of the unit). On the top row is the following (going from left to right):

Red
Green
Blue
Ground
Ground
Ground
Open
+5VDC

On the bottom row (from left to right):

Horizontal Sync
Vertical Sync
Composite Sync (since disabled)
Left Audio
Right Audio
Open
Open

I had some open pins in case I found a way to trigger Progressive Scan (I didn't). After doing all of my testing I figured I can condense this into a 9-pin plug. I hope to get my hands on a Slim PS2 unit in the near future and do a similar mod using the knowledge I gained on working on my two units. However, I would like to find pictures of the Slim PS2 board first so I can study it before trying to acquire one. So far I have not found any on the web.

I am also wondering if there is a brill bit, for use with a pin vice, that is as thin, if not slightly thinner than a 30-gauge wire. This way I can drill the gunk out of the junction holes so I can stick a wire all the way through the motherboard for better soldering.

[RARusk]

For my tests I used the following discs:

"Godzilla: Tokyo SOS" (DVD Movie)
"The Matrix" (DVD Movie)
"Grand Theft Auto 2" (PS1 Game)
"State of Emergency" (PS2 Game)
"Soul Calibur II" (PS2 Game - Progressive Scan)

Separate Sync

"Godzilla: Tokyo SOS" (Worked)
"The Matrix" (Worked)
"Grand Theft Auto 2" (Worked)
"State of Emergency" (Worked)
"Soul Calibur II" (Worked)

When using Separate Sync, using my NEC MultiSync 3D monitor, everything worked great. Even the DVD's. No Component Video forceback and no MacroVision problems (because I tapped the necessary signals before that stuff got mixed in). I just popped them in and off they ran. "Soul Caliber II" also worked very well in Progressive Scan mode. I then hooked up my Compaq MV520 monitor to use "Soul Caliber II" in Progressive Scan mode and it looked great. And no green tint either.

The green tint problem occurs when you try to put in a signal that has Sync-On-Green onto a monitor that doesn't use it and sees the sync as something else and you end up with a green tint on the screen. I tried using a sync chip to get separate sync then used it on my MV520 and ended up with a green tint. Because I tapped into the RGB signals before the main video chip, which mixed in composite sync into the green line when Progressive Scan is enabled, I was able to avoid the green tint problem. Very useful if you happen to have a PlayStation 2 Linux programming set.

Composite Sync

"Godzilla: Tokyo SOS" (Didn't Work)
"The Matrix" (Didn't Work)
"Grand Theft Auto 2" (Worked)
"State of Emergency" (Worked)
"Soul Calibur II" (Worked - MultiSync only)

When using Composite Sync, on the MultiSync and Commodore 1084, I found that the DVD's wouldn't work. The sync got completly messed up but returned to normal when they were removed. This pretty much confirmed a suspicion of mine. The suspicion was that the sync mixing chip on the PS2 also mixes in MacroVision when a DVD is inserted. To further confirm my suspicion I ran the C-Sync through my EL1883 sync chip, the only sync chip that can handle MacroVision, and the picture snapped into place. The only way around this problem is to mix the sync outside of the PS2's sync mixing chip.

The below picture, taken from http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/scart.htm, shows a very simple way to mix Horizontal and Vertical Syncs together. This method works great with my 1084 and MultiSync I had no problems with my DVD's. Should be able to fit inside a PS2 case easy (although I did not do it to mine - I used the PS2's Composite Sync for testing purposes before ruining it).

"Soul Caliber II" also looked great in Progessive Scan mode (on the MultiSync 3D).

I also found that you may have to do picture adjustments depending on what mode you are in (PS1, PS2, DVD playback, Progressive Scan). I noticed that when you play DVD's it has a lot of overscan. I can easily deal with this on my MultiSync but this may be more problematic on a 1084 since you can only adjust the vertical height (using a hard to reach pot).

[RARusk]

Below is a picture of my PS2 and my new RGB box made specifically for it. In the box is my old CXA-1145 RGB amplifier setup. Because I tapped into the RGB signals just after it left the graphics chip it needs to be amplified. And my old amplifier setup works great. "Soul Calibur II" is also running on the Compaq MV520 monitor (in Progessive Scan mode).

[RARusk]

And this is a picture of the screen off of the MV520 monitor. Looks great doesn't it? And if "Soul Calibur III" is also going to have Progressive Scan mode I'm all set for it.

[RARusk]

While I am happy with my PS2 RGB setup I am also disappointed. I did considerable damage to my unit despite my best efforts. And the solder I raved about wouldn't work when it counted (I'm still trying to figure out why). But I also learned a lot of things on the way to this point. And these things will allow me to make better mods in the future.

And in sharing this information I am also contributing to the database of RGB knowledge. And it also shows you that, despite careful planning, that even the simplest modification to a PlayStation 2 can be a royal pain in the ass! Definitely not for the faint of heart.

Any comments?

[NFG]

very, very informative post and some great information here, thanks much.

1. You can get VERY tiny drillbits, usually for use with pen-sized handheld drills.  I perforated my house once with 'em.  Lots of fun.
2. How'd you make that jack for the RGB plug?

[viletim]

that's interesting...
Asside from a mod chip I've not played around much with the guts of my ps2 (mainly because it belongs to my brother and I can't afford to buy him a new one if I destroy it)

That green-screen RGB thing... sync on the video won't cause any problems, I guess what you're seeing is not sync but some kind of macrovision pulse - right in the back porch 'clamp spot'. I'm interested in looking into this a bit further but my ps2 is kind of broken in this way (I performed an 'RGB fix mod' that I found on some dodgy website. Later (when i put the chip in) I tried to undo it but it seems to be permanent).

Some suggestions to soldering to the vias:
have they got some kind of coating on them?
tried scraping at them with a pin head?
For a tiny drill bit (like Lawrence suggests) try using a pin (use one with a plastic top you can squash/burn off) or sewing needle in a high speed mini drill. It will only last a few holes but that may be all you need.

[Darklegion]

Yeah,the protective coating will get you if you have not dealt with it before and like viletim said scratching the vias with a pin should get the coating way and leave some visible copper to solder to.Also using a bit of flux may be an idea if you still cannot get it to stick although it shouldn't be needed in most cases.

Haha,you've also found out the hard way how much of a pain these crappily built/designed consoles are to work with.You need to be constantly on your toes as the protection circuitry seems to be lax,and you'll often get blown fuses just from playing around with it at all.Things can break just by handling the mainboards too.since the emotion engine and gpu aren't always that secure so some of the internal pins can lose contact,resulting in various miscellaneous problems that aren't easy to trace.And don't even get me started about the laser and the circuitry that drives it,13 models and 5 years down the road and they still haven't built anything that actually works properly and consistently.I bet thats the way they like it too,what with the money they make out of repair costs and the extra sales they get from people not willing to bother with getting  them repaired (or can't because they opened the console) along with the money they save by going for the cheapest possible components across the board.

[RARusk]

"1. You can get VERY tiny drillbits, usually for use with pen-sized handheld drills. I perforated my house once with 'em. Lots of fun.
2. How'd you make that jack for the RGB plug?"

The tiniest drill bit I've got will completely destroy the junction hole. I'll need to find something smaller. I will try Atex Electronics here in San Antonio. As for the jack, I removed all of the electronics and modded the case by cutting out the necessary plastic and gluing in a plastic 15-pin holder to hold the plug. I may go back into the unit, find the composite sync wire (which I've left dangling) and make my own composite sync using the diode/resistor method to restore the composite sync on my plug. Just in case I get my hands on the Neobitz board.

"That green-screen RGB thing... sync on the video won't cause any problems, I guess what you're seeing is not sync but some kind of macrovision pulse - right in the back porch 'clamp spot'."

It's not MacroVision. Games don't use it and I don't have a later model PS2 that supports Progressive Scan DVD output. It's the sync that causes the problem. However, if you tap into the seperate sync just after it leaves one of the video chips (I don't remember which one), you can solve that problem entirely (that and tapping into the video signals before the sync gets mixed in).

I have been scraping off the contacts to expose the copper before soldering. It worked on the v4 but not on the v3. Maybe I did it wrong. But I will try using some flux and see what happens. Remember, these junction holes are VERY small. If you ever open up a PS2 someday you'll see what I mean. It frightens me to imagine what a PS3 motherboard might look like.  

[RARusk]

Went to a local hobby shop and found a .080 drill bit that I could use. I went and tried it and it worked. But I did not do any soldering yet, just did a fit test with the wire and it fit snugly.

I am also kicking myself very hard. I should have thought of this in the very beginning and would have saved me a whole lot of trouble and damage. Too late for my v3 unit but I also learned a valuable lesson. I will try to do a soldering test tomorrow.

[viletim!]

RARusk,

The reason I believe the green screen effect is BECAUSE it's only seen when playing movies. As I'm sure you know, in many parts of the world DVD players are required (government mandate) to output macrovision. From some patent website I've read that new versions of macrovision are available for RGB and colour difference video formats.

In any case, if you get a chance could you take another look at it? Here's what's going on in the vertical blanking interval:

Code Select Expand

:  ######            ######   Video
:  ######    12�S    ######   (# = picture info)
:  ------------------------
:        
:                             ____
:  -------+   +------------   Sync
:         |   |
:         +---+
:          5�S
:                             _____
: -------------+  +--------   Clamp
:              |  |
:              +--+
:              4�S The diagram is a bit crude but it's to scale - these are PAL timings, I'd expect them to be a bit faster on an NTSC console.

The /Clamp signal is signal generated inside the monitor (it's calculated from the sync pulse). For the duration of the /Clamp pulse the video signal should be at black level (ie the same level lowest part of the picture info). If there's anything else there I'd suspect macrovision.

[Endymion]

It is the sync-on-green issue. It doesn't matter whether you're playing a movie or watching a game. If you are using the PS2 in VGA mode it syncs on green. If your monitor doesn't support sync-on-green you get a greened screen. No fun.