i know it's probably been asked before, but i've been googling around and it looks like a home made alternative to the expensive ones is possible, but nobody is telling much about how to do it...
my tv has component as it's best input, and i want to use it with my older consoles which dont support it..
there seems to be a jaycar kit that does it, but it looks to take sync on green.. how hard is it to add sync to the green?
otherwise has anyone got a suggestion? i'd probably be willing to pay up to AU$100 for something like this if it works well.
There's always the CYS-2100, and this variant (probably the same internals):
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Adapter_W0QQitemZ220333406655QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220333406655&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177#ebayphotohosting
Don't forget the Jrock component converter:
http://jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html
the jrok converter looks like itll end up being over a hundred bucks after i wire it all up.. the one on ebay is going to need audio out connected into it, what they designed it without that i dont know.. ill probably get the one off ebay and see how it goes.
Quote from: phreak97 on December 30, 2008, 12:13:56 AM
i know it's probably been asked before, but i've been googling around and it looks like a home made alternative to the expensive ones is possible, but nobody is telling much about how to do it...
It's kinda funny how some people almost horde information such as what components go into a video converter. At any rate, it does kinda get expensive only because sometimes getting the chips isn't easy. For an RGB to S-Video, you can use a Sony CXA1645. Good luck finding one, though. People would often harvest them from old electronics.
This isn't my wheelhouse, but I'm just trying to get the conversation moving so - corrections are welcome, but I do believe there is a newer chip similar to the CXA that will do component as well. I'm not sure if they're in a PS2 or not.
All told... for what that eBay box costs, I'd probably just buy that one instead. Depending on what the insides look like, it should be trivial to add your audio outputs.
yeah, it's got 9 days to go on the listing, but given the exchange rate for au, it'll be worth waiting.. still sucks though.
Quote from: Blaine on January 02, 2009, 01:00:49 PM
Depending on what the insides look like, it should be trivial to add your audio outputs.
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:csy-2100
Enjoy! ;)
I did not test it yet:
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/interfaces/diytranscoder.html
This schematic is for VGA, but with an LM1881 and (maybe?) other resistor values it can use for RGB.
Greetings Markus
Quote from: RGB32E on January 03, 2009, 04:55:54 AM
Quote from: Blaine on January 02, 2009, 01:00:49 PM
Depending on what the insides look like, it should be trivial to add your audio outputs.
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:csy-2100
Enjoy! ;)
Very cool. I do sorta wonder why we didn't break the audio out of the box instead of out of the cable (I mean... if you wanna slap on your Dreamcast, you'll need to slice up another cable). Too cramped inside the enclosure?
is the csy-2100 likely to be the same thing as the one on ebay? im thinking it is..
where can the actual csy-2100 be bought?
Quote from: Moosmann on January 03, 2009, 06:31:26 AM
I did not test it yet:
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/interfaces/diytranscoder.html
This schematic is for VGA, but with an LM1881 and (maybe?) other resistor values it can use for RGB.
Greetings Markus
It looks dodgy (horrible RC AND gate delay in there) and would need a lot of modification to work with anything but VGA. As far as I'm aware the transcoder circuit published on elm-chan.org is the only one on the internet suitable for consoles. I built one and it does a god job.
im pretty set on getting a prebuilt one now, where might i find that csy-2100? on the off chance the ebay one is different inside..
http://www.highway.net.au/parts/converters/2005_1.html
ah right, so it'd be worth waiting and bidding on the ebay one.. itll probably be the same anyway.
QuoteIt looks dodgy (horrible RC AND gate delay in there) and would need a lot of modification to work with anything but VGA. As far as I'm aware the transcoder circuit published on elm-chan.org is the only one on the internet suitable for consoles. I built one and it does a god job.
OK, thanks for this Info :) Do you mean this Transcoder ?
http://elm-chan.org/works/yuv2rgb/report.html
http://elm-chan.org/works/yuv2rgb/rgb2yuv.png
Greetings Markus
Quote from: Moosmann on January 06, 2009, 03:51:56 AM
OK, thanks for this Info :) Do you mean this Transcoder ?
http://elm-chan.org/works/yuv2rgb/report.html
http://elm-chan.org/works/yuv2rgb/rgb2yuv.png
Greetings Markus
That's the one. Direct links to images don't seem to work on that server.
Out of interest, I notice that someone on another forum (here (http://www.topfield-australia.com.au/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?p=132167); head down the page, look for a post by srto2) has said that the CSY-2100 has a history of being a bit shonky; not sure of his credentials, I trust you guys since you've helped me out before when I asked about throwing crystal oscillators into PAL Mega Drives to get colour in 60hz via composite and s-video :D
I've been thinking of grabbing an RGB >> YUV converter for a while and this thread has proved really useful so far, so thanks for all involved! I tried doing the s-video mod on the Mega Drive (PAL) with the circuit on the wiki, and while the colour and clarity were there, there was heaps of noise (despite the fact I kept the wires short) and it looked like 1-pixel thick horizontal lines were rolling over the image right-to-left at all times. I might have messed up the circuit, but I figured an RGB >> YUV converter would be a better choice since I can use it for other consoles as well.
Alternatively, I was searching through the forums and noticed viletim was working on a converter box (here (http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3311.0)); not sure what the cost would be like with something like this, but it looks really promising - any word if you're still going ahead with it?
Oh, and to phreak97, I notice that WES Components have the CSY-2100 boxes available, but I'm not sure of the cost. They don't have an online store per se, in the past when I've ordered components from them I've faxed over the order details with my credit card details and haven't had a problem. You'll have to e-mail them in advance to get a quote for the cost of the item + postage though (that's what I've done). Not sure how it'll compare to an o/s purchase, but might be worthwhile (if you get in touch, post the price, as I'd be keen on grabbing one).
-Mangaman-
Quote from: Mangaman on January 06, 2009, 06:08:10 PM
Out of interest, I notice that someone on another forum (here (http://www.topfield-australia.com.au/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?p=132167); head down the page, look for a post by srto2) has said that the CSY-2100 has a history of being a bit shonky; not sure of his credentials, I trust you guys since you've helped me out before when I asked about throwing crystal oscillators into PAL Mega Drives to get colour in 60hz via composite and s-video :D
From the pictures RGB32E uploaded, they do look a bit dodgy. Mainly because there are so many trim-pots. The main reason to put user inaccessable pot into a circuit is if you are designing around a complex componet with loose tolerances (eg, a picture tube, laser diode, etc). Another reason is, if some part of the circuit is expected to change with age, it can be recalibrated periodicaly when serviced. As neither of those two apply to a simple device like this I can only assume they are there for the only other reason I can think of, the designer didn't know what he was doing so just chucked a bunch of pots in and adjusted them until it worked.
Quote
Alternatively, I was searching through the forums and noticed viletim was working on a converter box (here (http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3311.0)); not sure what the cost would be like with something like this, but it looks really promising - any word if you're still going ahead with it?
It's still in early stages at the moment. I'm busy with another project at the moment but i'll be getting back to it soon enough.
Quote
Oh, and to phreak97, I notice that WES Components have the CSY-2100 boxes available, but I'm not sure of the cost. They don't have an online store per se, in the past when I've ordered components from them I've faxed over the order details with my credit card details and haven't had a problem. You'll have to e-mail them in advance to get a quote for the cost of the item + postage though (that's what I've done). Not sure how it'll compare to an o/s purchase, but might be worthwhile (if you get in touch, post the price, as I'd be keen on grabbing one).
My 2003 WES trade catalogue lists the price as $149. I'll check the latest one at work tomorrow if you like.
thanks for the info, i've got a friend with a wes account, if you could get me an up to date price i might get it through him.
but i can probably get the one off ebay for about $80 so thats looking to be the most likely one. i dont mind readjusting the pots if i have to..
@viletim: Thanks for the detailed reply! I was wondering why all the pots were on there as well... I don't mind tweaking them to get it about right, but at $149, I'd be expecting it to be a pretty nice solution ;) Maybe I'm being a bit of a tight-arse though. I know there are plenty of expensive devices when it comes to managing video signals, but I figured since it's a little box and is only converting RGB to YUV (with an emphasis on *only*, as I have no idea how complex such a process is!), $149 seems a bit excessive if it doesn't do a very good job (if it did a knock-up job and was reliable though, then I'd definitely put the money down for one). Still, if you can find out their going price and post it up, that would be ace. Like phreak97 said, there's always the rebadged units on eBay on-offer.
Thanks for following up on my question about your converter box - I'll be looking forward to seeing how you go with it, sounds like a great idea. I'm in no rush to grab a converter box at this moment necessarily, but I figure I'd look into making the plunge some time this year - now that I have a good, working Mega Drive, I'm keen to catch up on some gaming, and playing the Mega Drive through composite is a bit painful on the eyes, especially when you see how damn good they can look in 240p via component, like in the Japanese Phantasy Star Collection Sega Ages release on the PS2!
-Mangaman-
$149 is a bit expensive for this unit... Mine cost a little bit over $60 (USD) and came with a 110VAC adapter. It actually does a fairly good job and is flexible (works with arcade boards). The output quality is better than s-video or composite... not quite as good as RGB... but it also depends upon what you're connecting it to... most (not all) HDTVs do a horrible job of processing 240p component... but if it's a SD CRT, it should look nicer than S-Video. Though if your only option for getting the CSY-2100 is to pay $150, I'd try the Kramer FC-14 instead.
Quote from: viletim on January 06, 2009, 12:39:16 AM
Quote from: Moosmann on January 03, 2009, 06:31:26 AM
I did not test it yet:
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/interfaces/diytranscoder.html
This schematic is for VGA, but with an LM1881 and (maybe?) other resistor values it can use for RGB.
Greetings Markus
It looks dodgy (horrible RC AND gate delay in there) and would need a lot of modification to work with anything but VGA.
What "gate delay" do you speak of? Does this look like a good design for VGA at least or would you recommend any adjustments to it?
Thanks!
-ud
phreak97,
The price in the 2007 WES catalogue is $79.50. I wasn't suggesting you (or anyone else) should attempt to fiddle with the pots, they're probably already at their optimum positions. I was just saying that the excessive use of pots makes the unit more failure prone and more expensive (cause a technician has to adjust them all). In my opinion, a better design wouldn't include them.
@RGB32E: Awesome, thanks for the summary - you're spot on, I'll be hooking it up to my SD CRT (I prefer my SD CRT for retro games vs my HD set - makes the wife happy since it keeps the old machines in another room, and I didn't want to tax the scalers on the HDTV when working with all my old machines' signals). And, at $80 (thanks Viletim!!!), I will definitely be looking into grabbing one in a couple of months, along with a SCART cable for my Mega Drive :) I'll probably do an RGB mod on my SMS as well, since that would obviously benefit from the update! Just a pity that the NES is such a pain to do an RGB mod to, let alone a PAL NES!!!
Man I love this forum :D I've been reading it sporadically for years and have always found cool stuff on it!
-Mangaman-
now that the auction is ending in a couple of hours, i've run out of money:(
ill still get one eventually, I've got a couple of cars to sell soon, but for now if anyone reads this in the next two hours it looks like this one's going for a good price:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370138347096&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:AU:1123
You know, i have one of those boxes and i never got it to work right for some reason.
Quote from: A Murder of Crows on January 12, 2009, 03:26:43 PM
You know, i have one of those boxes and i never got it to work right for some reason.
I second that. I got one of those SCART RGB to YUV Component Video Converter,Adapter from ebay (I am in the USA by the way) and connected my SNES to it and the adaptor to my RCA TV with Component Video input and the picture did show up, but it was shaky and scrambled.
Quote from: eastbayarb on January 12, 2009, 07:26:36 PM
Quote from: A Murder of Crows on January 12, 2009, 03:26:43 PM
You know, i have one of those boxes and i never got it to work right for some reason.
I second that. I got one of those SCART RGB to YUV Component Video Converter,Adapter from ebay (I am in the USA by the way) and connected my SNES to it and the adaptor to my RCA TV with Component Video input and the picture did show up, but it was shaky and scrambled.
Yeah, I recall trying to help you troubleshoot the problem, but it didn't seem like it was something you could do yourself... ??? Perhaps both of you received defective units (bad converter, and/or power supply)? Or, maybe you were not making the correct connections? The SNES works fine on the CSY-2100, given something isn't foobar with your setup. I've tried the converter on a variety of SD and HD TVs and not encountered any troubles... oh well! ::)
Quote from: RGB32E on January 13, 2009, 07:45:24 AM
Quote from: eastbayarb on January 12, 2009, 07:26:36 PM
Quote from: A Murder of Crows on January 12, 2009, 03:26:43 PM
You know, i have one of those boxes and i never got it to work right for some reason.
I second that. I got one of those SCART RGB to YUV Component Video Converter,Adapter from ebay (I am in the USA by the way) and connected my SNES to it and the adaptor to my RCA TV with Component Video input and the picture did show up, but it was shaky and scrambled.
Yeah, I recall trying to help you troubleshoot the problem, but it didn't seem like it was something you could do yourself... ??? Perhaps both of you received defective units (bad converter, and/or power supply)? Or, maybe you were not making the correct connections? The SNES works fine on the CSY-2100, given something isn't foobar with your setup. I've tried the converter on a variety of SD and HD TVs and not encountered any troubles... oh well! ::)
unlikely the units were bad. And there really isn't a wrong way to connect this unit other than plugging the SCART cable into the SCART input on the converter and then component cables from the converter to the TV. What more to it is there?
Quote from: eastbayarb on January 13, 2009, 08:00:24 AM
unlikely the units were bad. And there really isn't a wrong way to connect this unit other than plugging the SCART cable into the SCART input on the converter and then component cables from the converter to the TV. What more to it is there?
So, if the unit wasn't faulty, and your cables were not faulty, then there shouldn't have been any problems with using the converter... lol
Would it be possible to get component/composite/s-video output by running it through a jrok such as this:
http://jrok.com/hardware/RGB_diagrams/RGB_v4_pinout.jpg
My RGB modded NES ONLY outputs RGB but I would love it if I can get it to output component for my projector or LCD TV.
Quote from: eastbayarb on January 13, 2009, 08:00:24 AM
unlikely the units were bad. And there really isn't a wrong way to connect this unit other than plugging the SCART cable into the SCART input on the converter and then component cables from the converter to the TV. What more to it is there?
There's plenty to go wrong when you're dealing with Nintendo SCART cables!
Did you open it up to check?
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm
Quote from: RGB32E on January 13, 2009, 07:45:24 AM
Quote from: eastbayarb on January 12, 2009, 07:26:36 PM
Quote from: A Murder of Crows on January 12, 2009, 03:26:43 PM
You know, i have one of those boxes and i never got it to work right for some reason.
I second that. I got one of those SCART RGB to YUV Component Video Converter,Adapter from ebay (I am in the USA by the way) and connected my SNES to it and the adaptor to my RCA TV with Component Video input and the picture did show up, but it was shaky and scrambled.
Yeah, I recall trying to help you troubleshoot the problem, but it didn't seem like it was something you could do yourself... ??? Perhaps both of you received defective units (bad converter, and/or power supply)? Or, maybe you were not making the correct connections? The SNES works fine on the CSY-2100, given something isn't foobar with your setup. I've tried the converter on a variety of SD and HD TVs and not encountered any troubles... oh well! ::)
In my case, i tried with both a PS2 and a saturn SCart cable. i got no screen at all. i was REALLY looking forward to it too....just saw it today, in a box.
Quote from: A Murder of Crows on January 16, 2009, 03:48:33 PM
In my case, i tried with both a PS2 and a saturn SCart cable. i got no screen at all. i was REALLY looking forward to it too....just saw it today, in a box.
Have you double checked all of your connections and verified that the unit is getting power (led should light up)? Do you still have the unit?
Unit was getting power, connections at the time were good. I haven't tried it in over a year as i was so disgusted by the waste of money it was at the time.
I don't know what i did with the A/C adapter for it anymore. Had to buy a universal one to make it work, nice of them to put all the settings on the box to make it easy
EDIT:
12:32am, about 10 minutes ago, I got my first taste of semi-RGB out of my saturn. I'm not sure what was wrong 2 years ago, but i tried it again tonight. I made several stupid mistakes, tried on both my saturn and my xbox with RGB cables. didn't have component cables around, so i used some spare RCAs i had.
This was a mistake. One of the RCAs had a back connection. The other wasn't shielded enough or something. I got no picture, until i tried switching which cable when where....that's when i got a frozen picture on my screen for a fraction of a second.
I had a set of component cables for the Xbox hooked up to another port, so i traded out the craptastic RCAs for the components. Tried out the xbox first with component to make sure it would come up, then turned it off, switched cables, and rebooted in RGB/SCart.
Success!!!!! Color was correct, image was stable and about 98% clear (faintly visible diagonal lines coming across, probably due to power bleed over or crappy cables).
I immediately shut that down and switched to my saturn. I had mistakenly left it running, so the picture came on immediately....saturn settings screen was staring me in the face! got thru the menus and started Shining: The Holy Ark, which was in the machine....low and behold, i got picture, solid, stable, and mostly clear!
AND BUTT UGLY!!! Dear god, this game looks like ASS!!!
I swapped games for Sonic Jam, and that looked significantly better. I finally swapped for Night Warriors and i was MUCH happier.
I think modern consoles have spoiled me. I've been waiting all this time to get significantly better picture out of my older game systems that i forgot how BAD some of these can look, even in a much better picture output, when you haven't seen it in awhile
Night Warriors looked great, even in Aspect mode. Switched to 1:1 and got an even better overall picture, but it was TINY! This was done on an Olvevia LCD TV, not exactly an RGB monitor, but for my purposes, it did the job.
So yes, it was not PURE RGB, but that isn't the point. Picture output was FAR better than SVideo and was reported as being 480i on my screen.
Either i had crappy cables before, or i wasn't using enough power. Either way, this made ALL the difference. My SCART RGB to Component Box actually works.
Quote from: A Murder of Crows on January 22, 2009, 03:20:03 AM
Either i had crappy cables before, or i wasn't using enough power. Either way, this made ALL the difference. My SCART RGB to Component Box actually works.
LOL ;D ;D ;D
This is too funny... So, it really is working right?
Day 2 of RGB:
Yes, it is "working" . I'm getting some strange diagonal interference at the moment, pretty faint, but noticeable on both xbox RGB and Saturn RGB.
I've been told it's probably my power Supply, be it from ground loop or dirty power, or some other stupid power issue.
These lines are only barely noticeable, but once seen, i tend to focus on them
Also, the power jack seems to have broken partially, and probably needs to have the pin reconnected.
Wish i didn't have to go through this silly box, but yeah, it works
3rd update
I fixed the diagonal lines problem on this adapter. The adapter asks for 12v at the power jack, and i'm not sure if 12v is actually NEEDED there. My 9v adapter fit and had the same polarity. Swapped it in for the 12v adapter currently in, and like magic, strange diagonal lines are now gone!
Based on this, I can assume that at lease any one, or possibly all, of the following statements are true
A) The CSY-2100 does need 12v.
B) Using 12v may have caused interference with the circuitry in the form of diagonal lines visible on my screen
C) The 12v adapter I own is no good.
in any case, this gets us somewhere, eh?
Final Update:
Well, I am happy with the color. Everything looks really pixelated on my screen though. VF2 looks terrible....as if it requires scanlines or something.
Night Warriors is still the best game look wise, and that doesn't say much, considering how much jaggy edges there are. I have to believe it has something to do with the fact that it's being scaled to 480i instead of being displayed at a native resolution.
anyone got some ideas?
Anyone try this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler_W0QQitemZ220358651500QQihZ012QQcategoryZ14965QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
acem77 says this actually works. But I had it once and it didn't seem to work. Perhaps I didn't have the correct power supply. What power supply works for people in the USA like me?
thanks!
That's the one I use. It actually does it's job. If you see the notes and posts i made a few weeks back in this thread, you can see my trials with it.
So far, my ending result is that, at least on the saturn, it isn't exactly the picture I was hoping for. I figure it's because my TV is reading it as 480i instead of a 240 (non-interlaced) picture, and as a result, things aren't quite right.
A Murder of Crows,
What 12V power supply do you reccomend?
Eastbayarb - if you actually message the seller, he can sell you a US voltage adapter for it I believe.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YPbPr-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler_W0QQitemZ220359280382QQihZ012QQcategoryZ14965QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
I have this box, and it works perfectly on TurboDuo (modded), Genesis 2, and SNES. No problems. For Saturn I did not notice a huge improvement from S-video signal. It might be my cable that I made (custom) so I will give that an another attempt. But the other systems looked very nice.
Its always bugged me that these Scart to Component convertors never have audio outputs, even though Scart carries audio aswell. Does anybody know the real reason for this ???
I realise you could either mod it, or build/buy a scart cable with audio out sockets, but surely it couldnt have been that difficult to add it to begin with - even a 3.5mm stereo jack would have been enough ::)
check out my new thread here:
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3580.0
tested it with every RGB system I have (3DO is on it's way).
I hear ya, but honestly adding a min jack to this is cake. I will post up some pictures of how I did mine. I even added a DB9 so I could make a custom cable for systems that I don't have the scart cable for.
Quote from: Link83 on February 18, 2009, 02:01:34 AM
Its always bugged me that these Scart to Component convertors never have audio outputs, even though Scart carries audio aswell. Does anybody know the real reason for this ???
I realise you could either mod it, or build/buy a scart cable with audio out sockets, but surely it couldnt have been be that diffiicult to add it to begin with - even a 3.5mm stereo jack would have been enough ::)
duo_r,
I would love some sort of picture or step by step on adding stereo output to this thing. I don't know if you saw my new post, but I tested all 11 of my RGB capable systems on this thing with my CRT TV and they work great! 3DO is coming soon, so I will post results.
would you happen to know how to make a VGA to SCART cable (all my systems use SCART cables and they are connected to 4-in-1 SCART switchers that have a VGA plug on the end)?
thanks!
I will post up pictures of how I did mine, but here is a guide on modding for audio out:
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177830&highlight=transcoder (http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177830&highlight=transcoder)
I took it a step further and simply added a mini jack for audio output. So I just use a minijack stereo cable for sound. It looks neater, and works very well. It takes the audio from either Scart or my custom DB9 cable (ala Gamesx) and splits the sound to the mini audio jack. I placed it right next to the Component RGB ports so it looks as if it game OEM like that.
Quote from: eastbayarb on February 18, 2009, 01:04:28 PM
duo_r,
I would love some sort of picture or step by step on adding stereo output to this thing. I don't know if you saw my new post, but I tested all 11 of my RGB capable systems on this thing with my CRT TV and they work great! 3DO is coming soon, so I will post results.
would you happen to know how to make a VGA to SCART cable (all my systems use SCART cables and they are connected to 4-in-1 SCART switchers that have a VGA plug on the end)?
thanks!
You can see the minijack on the left of this picture:
(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6954/img0011dj6.jpg)
Also, the LED was "relocated" above the minijack)
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6941/img0012ts6.jpg)
My DB9 wired to Gamesx spec - use your custom RGB cables with this box! ;) Note - I am going to replace the screws with smaller ones soon, it was more of a temporary fix.
(http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2425/img0013bm4.jpg)
duo_r,
that's pretty damn sweet. I am cracking mine open and adding a mini stereo jack as well. Also, how would I be able to add VGA input to this (my SCART 4-way switchers have VGA on the end of them) ?
please explain or show pictures related to the VGA plug. Not sure exactly how your setup works.
Quote from: duo_r on February 18, 2009, 03:01:08 PM
please explain or show pictures related to the VGA plug. Not sure exactly how your setup works.
Ok, all of my systems (11 of them) all use SCART cables. Now, I have three SCART switch boxes. Each SCART switch box has four SCART female inputs. On the end of each SCART switch box is a VGA cable. The VGA cable connects to my RGB monitor. Now rather than unplugging each SCART cable for use with the SCART to Component on my CRT TV or projector, I would like to be able to still use my SCART switch box, but since the SCART to Component adaptor only has SCART input, I can't use my SCART switch boxes. That is why I want to add a VGA input in the same way you added a db9 input.
so a male VGA connector to Scart is what you need correct?
well a VGA connector on the side of the SCART to YUV converter like you have your db9 would be great
yeah thats possible. so a VGA connector input to the box outputting your RGB / Scart signals. It would be exactly like what I did but using a VGA connector.
I got one!
bought it off ebay last week, it came today:)
I've already added audio outputs to the back, I wanted to use a headphone jack but the shops were already closed, so I cut the line out cable off the back of an old car stereo and soldered that to the scart connector and stuck the other end through a slot i filed out of the back with a knotin the cable so tugging on it wont rip anything out. o i've got about a 5cm figure 8 cable with two moulded female rca conectors (one white one red) on it sticking out the back, it looks quite good:) I wish I'd relocated the led to the scart end though.. I might even do that yet, the led legs had to be bent out of the way so the knot in the cable would fit in the casing (led is still in the same sport and works though), and theres no power indicator visible the way it's sitting in my setup.
One thing I've noticed is that red is very bright.. is that just because I'm used to red sucking alot on composite video? or should I try to tweak the pots a bit? how can I tell?
also, NOW I've realised pal n64's cant be modded for rgb.. is looking into that a lost cause? or has someone made a recent breakthrough?
Quote from: phreak97 on May 05, 2009, 10:44:42 PM
I got one!
One thing I've noticed is that red is very bright.. is that just because I'm used to red sucking alot on composite video? or should I try to tweak the pots a bit? how can I tell?
So, do you have anything else to say about the picture quality of this unit? Also, does the internal PCB and components look like the pictures of the CSY-2100 that I posted on the wiki?
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:csy-2100
Picture quality is awesome. I have used this with pretty much every system of mine (genesis, pc engine, NES, SNES, etc) I did the stereo out add on but I get a really bad buzzing sound. Anyone else?
I'll have to open it again to have a look, but it has a bunch of pots in it the same as yours, but i forgot to compare. mine's made a bit more cheaply though, the led has no plastic mounting like yours, it clips into a plastic sleeve in the metal casing, but other than that it's just bare legs heading down to the pcb, I'd say the whole thing is made a bit more cheaply.
I havnt played much on it yet, only snes, which looks great aside from the red, which could just be me.
easybayarb, when you (re)do the mod make sure you have both the audio ground wires going to a good ground on the scart connector (I used pin 4), and clip pins 2 and 6 (audio) off of the pcb so the only thing youre connecting to is the scart slot. I couldnt take the pcb out withuot bending the casing, so I dont know if theyre attached to anything on the other side of the pcb. not worth the chance anyway, just clip 2 and 6.
Quote from: phreak97 on May 06, 2009, 08:00:23 AM
I havnt played much on it yet, only snes, which looks great aside from the red, which could just be me.
Hmm... I noticed on the intro to Super Metroid that the "METROID 3" red text seemed too intense and bled to the right when using the CSY-2100. However, the FC-14 doesn't do that... go figure. :P
Here's a picture of Zelda on a 3LCD RPTV (decent scaling) connected via RGB through my FC-14 (RGB to component):
Quote from: RGB32E on May 07, 2009, 12:14:30 AM
Hmm... I noticed on the intro to Super Metroid that the "METROID 3" red text seemed too intense and bled to the right when using the CSY-2100. However, the FC-14 doesn't do that... go figure. :P
for $200+, it better not.
Quote from: cgm on May 08, 2009, 03:21:46 PM
Quote from: RGB32E on May 07, 2009, 12:14:30 AM
Hmm... I noticed on the intro to Super Metroid that the "METROID 3" red text seemed too intense and bled to the right when using the CSY-2100. However, the FC-14 doesn't do that... go figure. :P
for $200+, it better not.
Wow, what makes it so special for that price? Did you seem their internals?
Quote from: timofonic on May 09, 2009, 02:07:30 AM
Wow, what makes it so special for that price? Did you seem their internals?
No, but as someone who has worked with pro video equipment before, it has to meet a few requirements.
1. It has to work.. period.. no drama.. no quality issues.
2. It has to do the above for at least 20 years before breaking.
3. It has to survive being dropped multiple times... onto concrete. A/V equipment in the field sees a lot more abuse then one expects.
Basically, its $200 well spent in its target application.
There's also another commercial grade transcoder/decoder I'm interested in playing around with: Extron QSD 204. Though it appears to convert back and forth between analog and digital (intput->A/D->D/A->output). It has an optional remote control! It doesn't do any scaling, and is limited to NTSC/PAL timing (i.e. standard def). So, I'm wondering what artifacts and problems that causes (e.g. treating 240p as 480i). Only time will tell... ;)
(http://www.extron.com/product/img-lg/qsd204-lg.jpg)
Bought myself a Kramer FC-14. I will compare it with the XSelect-D4 and report back !
The Extron looks solid, but remember that there are higher end Kramer units out there which cannot handle 240p, so I would basically expect similar problems from other higher end units as well.
The Extron QSD has a SDI input which probably makes him quite expensive.
Quote from: Fudoh on May 13, 2009, 07:38:21 AM
Bought myself a Kramer FC-14. I will compare it with the XSelect-D4 and report back !
The Extron looks solid, but remember that there are higher end Kramer units out there which cannot handle 240p, so I would basically expect similar problems from other higher end units as well.
The Extron QSD has a SDI input which probably makes him quite expensive.
Very cool... my shenanigans has paid off! I'm looking forward to your comparison with the XSelect-D4. Though, I'm sure you paid more than I :P, though you do own a VP50Pro... :-X The SDI input is a separate module that can be added (sold with or without the SDI input). I'll have a few more words about the 240p support on this unit in the near future ;)...
Did you grab the QSD on eBay lately ? Very nice price :) If it does not live up to your expectations transcoder-wide, drop me a PM. I'm interested in the machine for FBAS to Component for Laserdiscs in comparison to the legendary Monster Entech CVSI-1.
Quote from: Fudoh on May 13, 2009, 09:20:00 PM
Did you grab the QSD on eBay lately ? Very nice price :) If it does not live up to your expectations transcoder-wide, drop me a PM. I'm interested in the machine for FBAS to Component for Laserdiscs in comparison to the legendary Monster Entech CVSI-1.
By FBAS, do you mean (from the manual):
QuoteFour-line adaptive comb filter — Separates the color carrier signal and it's
harmonics from the video signal to eliminate chroma noise and enables a
projector or monitor to display a clean, clear picture.
Yes. Composite to Component. The companies have basically stop to incluce good combfilters into their TVs and even the VP50pro completely fails this task. The Entech CVSI-1 I use is nice, but a multi-purpose unit would be nicer of course.
Quote from: Fudoh on May 14, 2009, 07:47:33 AM
Yes. Composite to Component. The companies have basically stop to incluce good combfilters into their TVs and even the VP50pro completely fails this task. The Entech CVSI-1 I use is nice, but a multi-purpose unit would be nicer of course.
Well... I received the Extron QSD 204 and..... it works fine for 480i, but NOT for 240p/doublestrike... FAIL :'(. So, it would work great for a laser disc player, VCR, DVD player, cable box, ect... but not for any low resolution doublestrike interlaced video signal :-[. At least the Kramer FC-14 works with any RGB source, regardless of resolution/timing (except for signals exceeding it's bandwidth rating).
Unfortunately to be expected. If you want to sell it for the price you paid + shipping to my place, PM me.
Quote from: Fudoh on May 15, 2009, 08:23:24 AM
Unfortunately to be expected. If you want to sell it for the price you paid + shipping to my place, PM me.
Certainly... at first I tried the NES via composite... FAIL... next I tried Final Fight (CPS1)... fail.... I was starting to thing that the unit was "defective". However, this morning I tried the composite output from my Motorola cable box... SUCCESSS!!! So, while it may be a long shot... I have something in progress that may benefit future products... only time will tell! Custom RGB PS1 cable it is!!!! :o :o :o :o :o
;)
Edit:
Adding crummy DSi pix
i just cracked my generic converter open again, it isnt the same as the csy-2100 but the layout of the pcb is roughly the sam and it still has 6 pots. did anyone figure out what the pots on the csy-2100 do? I tried tweaking mine and got pretty good results but still not quite how I'd like. looks a hell of alot better than composite though. Anyone got a snes rom of a monitor colour test pattern? I've got a couple of snes backup units in my collection, may as well put one to use.
I figured out a couple of the pots, theres Pb and Pr adjustments, and a couple that dont seem to do much at all, then two which affect the colour vibrance but I cant work out exactly what theyre doing.
Quote from: phreak97 on October 16, 2009, 09:10:58 PM
i just cracked my generic converter open again, it isnt the same as the csy-2100 but the layout of the pcb is roughly the sam and it still has 6 pots. did anyone figure out what the pots on the csy-2100 do? I tried tweaking mine and got pretty good results but still not quite how I'd like. looks a hell of alot better than composite though. Anyone got a snes rom of a monitor colour test pattern? I've got a couple of snes backup units in my collection, may as well put one to use.
I figured out a couple of the pots, theres Pb and Pr adjustments, and a couple that dont seem to do much at all, then two which affect the colour vibrance but I cant work out exactly what theyre doing.
I ended up selling my CSY-2100 over the weekend (since I have the FC-14), and never experimented with what the pots control. :P Though, from my experience with this unit, that the pot that controls saturation should be turned down just a bit (to handle the really vibrant colors - e.g. METROID 3).
I ended up turning one of my pots all the way down, and another one just a fraction up from all the way down.
I'd still like to know what their proper functions are.
Did you adjust while it was "hot"?