N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 / firmware v3.5 - PCBs available again (August 2017)

Started by micro, March 13, 2015, 08:57:38 AM

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micro

#240
January 03, 2017, 07:53:36 AM
Your solder work looks fine to me.

Did you use the same GC-style stick shell to test the 3 assembled PCB's so far?

Nintendo64

#241
January 04, 2017, 03:51:27 AM
Where to buy completed N64 updated PCB thumbstick ? (New PCB with plastic shell)

iacka

#242
January 05, 2017, 09:52:12 PM
Yeah I have actually I might try and dissassemble another control stick and use that shell see if it makes any difference.
Do you think it might have anything with the cable that plugs into the controller from the PCB? Damaged cable possibly not producing the right voltages?

iacka

#243
January 08, 2017, 03:11:15 PM
ok so I have just tested another PCB in an entirely new control stick (ie new plastic shell and new cable). I can't believe this is still not working as intended. It actually gave me the same results as last time if not worse! I have tried everything. New control stick shell, different PCBs and even a different controller to test everything with.
My only assumption is that I may have got a faulty batch?
Any assistance on this would be much appreciated!

>

Link83

#244
January 09, 2017, 10:20:02 AM Last Edit: January 10, 2017, 07:04:45 AM by Link83
What brand/model analog sticks are you using? micro's PCB's used part number 98002C6:-
https://www.conrad.de/de/joystick-12-vdc-metallhebel-gerade-loetpins-98002c6-1-st-425609.html
The 3rd party N64 sticks use low quality analog sticks which only reach 38°, whereas the one micro uses can reach 60°.
Theres more info about this on the 2nd page of the installation pdf linked in the first post.

Nintendo64

#245
January 11, 2017, 03:03:45 AM
HELP ME SOMEONE !!! Where to buy updated completed GC Style N64 stick ??? (with shell etc.)

Seroczynski

#246
January 13, 2017, 08:54:00 AM
Hey lads, ordered and assembled four PCB's a little while ago. Used the V3 GameCube sticks sold by Mortoff Games.

I finally received my flashcart today so that I could test my results. Two were perfectly calibrated, one had to be re-calibrated in order to get the proper results, and then there was one which gave me the following result:



Are there any conclusions one might be able to pull from just this result? I have the same problem as iacka, where re-calibrating only gives the same result. I am using the L+Z re-calibration method.

iacka

#247
January 13, 2017, 06:21:54 PM
I haven't used any 3rd party accessories (including the joystick) only ones provided from micro

micro

#251
January 15, 2017, 02:59:51 AM
Ok, I've had a look into this. I don't own an Everdrive and therefore I cannot use the same controller test program. But I've got another device to read out the N64 controller. I noted the controller stick position values and put them into a Excel sheet. (Excel sheet attached to this post.)



1) At first I've tested my old GC style stick with a v2 Stick Converter PCB inside. It's the blue line and it looks perfectly ok.

2) After that I've assembled a v3 PCB set from the current batch. I installed it and the test results look pretty much like the ones shown by Seroczynski (red linde).

3) Finally I've desoldered the potentiometer stick from the v2 PCB and soldered it to the v3 PCB. The pins of the stick got a little bit bit bent during the desoldering process. After calibrating I've tested the stick again and now it looked pretty much than the old v2 PCB (green line).

My conclusions so far:

1) The v3 PCB's of this batch not faulty. They're working like they always have.

2) The accuracy/linearity of the potentiometer sticks seems to vary. But I don't know if the recent batch is worse than those before (or even out of specs).
I've been buying the same sticks, same specs. Also the markings on the potentiometer sticks are the same (60, 6, B, 103).

Right now I'm guessing that it's normal that some potentiometer stick got a better or worse linearity than others. Seroczynski also said his other sticks got "better" test results.

3) There's no guarantee that after calibration you'll get a perfect octagon on your controller test program. Just look at the test results of other potentiometer-based N64 sticks, they can look really wild.
But even if the test result looks like the red one I've tested, then it doesn't necessarily mean the stick is unplayable.

4) @iacka: It's actually the first time that someone said he can't run at full speed in Mario64 with that N64 Stick Converter. Of course that's a real problem and should definitively not occur. I'll contact you soon via email to resolve that issue. :)

5) I got an idea for different calibration method. Maybe that *could* tackle the problems that occur when the potentiometer stick's linearity is worse than it should be. Unfortunately I don't have time for that at moment, but it will give it a try for sure.


Seroczynski

#252
January 15, 2017, 07:56:01 AM
Thanks micro, for taking the time to test this to this extend. I'd wanted to clarify that when I said I had "better" results, I was talking about results similar to the blue line in your graphs.

I think I'll just leave it for now. If I ever want to achieve a similar result as the blue line, and not like the red line, would it be enough to try another potentiometer from Conrad?

micro

#253
January 16, 2017, 08:19:30 AM
Yes I guess you could try another potentiometer stick, although there's no guarantee you'll get a better stick from Conrad. Actually you only would need new potentiometers (the orange thingy). They can be unclipped from the metal stick body and swapped. But unfortunately there's no source for the potentiometers...

Well, I've been working on another firmware this weekend. It works a little different than before and should be better suited for lopsided potentiometer sticks as shown here in the last posts. So far the results look promising:



If used the very same potentiometer stick which gave me the red line with v3 PCB before. With the new firmware the same stick now seems to be much more even (blue line).

Do you have a ISP programmer for Atmel microcontrollers? In that case you could try out the new firmware.

Seroczynski

#254
January 16, 2017, 10:30:26 PM
That is quite a difference, nice work. I don't have a programmer, but might be able to ask my brother-in-law.

micro

#255
January 22, 2017, 03:28:59 AM
Even if your brother hasn't a programming device, you can buy it yourself. On Aliexpress you can get it for insanely low prices. 2$ shipped for both the programmer and the 10->6 pin adaptor!


I'll do more work and testing on the firmware tomorrow (hopefully). If everything's ok I will upload the firmware. So everyone with the 2$ programmer linked above will be able to update the firmware of the N64 Stick Converter PCB.
I also intend to write up a small tutorial how to update the firmware and which programming tool to use.

dav3yb

#256
January 22, 2017, 11:14:01 AM
Quote from: micro on January 22, 2017, 03:28:59 AM
Even if your brother hasn't a programming device, you can buy it yourself. On Aliexpress you can get it for insanely low prices. 2$ shipped for both the programmer and the 10->6 pin adaptor!


I'll do more work and testing on the firmware tomorrow (hopefully). If everything's ok I will upload the firmware. So everyone with the 2$ programmer linked above will be able to update the firmware of the N64 Stick Converter PCB.
I also intend to write up a small tutorial how to update the firmware and which programming tool to use.

Do you need one of everything here?  or are the programers and adapters redundant?  either way, i just ordered one of everything, since it still only totaled like 5$. 

I've been trying to find a good way to make sure the joysticks i buy are the new ones that you dont have to carve apart with a knife.  I might try and order a couple from ebay that only have a picture of the new one (held together w/ a screw).

Also yes, a tutorial how to update the firmware would be great. 

micro

#257
January 24, 2017, 08:52:54 AM
You need one programmer and one 10->6 pin adaptor.

I've uploaded the new v3.5 firmware and a firmware update guide. Links can be found in the 1st post. :)

dav3yb

#258
January 24, 2017, 01:27:45 PM
Quote from: micro on January 24, 2017, 08:52:54 AM
You need one programmer and one 10->6 pin adaptor.

I've uploaded the new v3.5 firmware and a firmware update guide. Links can be found in the 1st post. :)

I'll check it out when I have the programmer in hand!  which im sure will be a month or two from now.  i guess the benefit of ordering 2 is now they get to RACE each other across the world!

Seroczynski

#259
January 25, 2017, 07:18:28 PM
Quote from: micro on January 24, 2017, 08:52:54 AM
You need one programmer and one 10->6 pin adaptor.

I've uploaded the new v3.5 firmware and a firmware update guide. Links can be found in the 1st post. :)

This is greatly appreciated. Didn't even ask my brother in law because I find this very interesting to do myself. Thanks for listing the items, posting the firmware and the guide. Will report back once I've received everything and got around to updating, will take a while.

public-pervert

#260
January 27, 2017, 10:57:03 AM
Thanks for sharing your hard work with us, Micro. Really appreciate it!

skaman

#261
January 29, 2017, 05:41:33 PM
micro, I'll add my thanks for sharing your creation!  I managed to build 4 replacement units that work perfectly.  I had been using the stock GC style replacement joystick but I was having a hard time aiming in different games.  After the conversion, the joystick replacement works perfectly and I have no problems aiming.

If anyone is planning to build these joysticks, I bought the parts off eBay. 

The GC style joysticks were bought from eBay vendor "nintendoplayerschoice".  The listing for the "old" GC style joystick (Simple Jet V2.0 version) is here:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/171568010491

A UK-based eBay vendor "vila_restor" sells the correct 60 degree joystick.  The listing for the joystick is here:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/111355294683

Thanks micro!

Nintendo64

#262
February 06, 2017, 10:29:42 AM
I bought an ebay gc style thumbstick, I'ts very sensitive, can I upgrade the firmware on this ebay stick to 3.5 ? What I need to upgrade firmware my ebay thumbstick ?

micro

#263
February 06, 2017, 08:21:19 PM
No, that's not possible of course. I got the feeling you're totally lost, Nintendo64. The 3.5 firmware you're mentioning is of course meant to be used with the N64 Stick Converter PCB. That's what this thread is all about. Check the 1st post for all the neccessary files and links to build such a N64 Stick Converter PCB.

Howwy

#264
February 12, 2017, 11:23:07 AM
Hi.
Are you still making these pcbs? And how do i order one?

noko_bombette

#266
March 01, 2017, 03:02:40 AM
I get an error when trying to send an e-mail to order a PCB set to the address in the first post.

550 Mailbox unavaiable

Code Select
Final-Recipient: rfc822; v3@borscht.33mail.com
Action: failed
Status: 5.0.0
Remote-MTA: dns; smtp1.ec2.33mail.com. (54.175.71.36, the server for the
domain borscht.33mail.com.)
Diagnostic-Code: smtp; 550 Mailbox unavaiable
Last-Attempt-Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2017 07:47:53 -0800 (PST)

Ty.ty

#268
March 20, 2017, 10:07:12 AM Last Edit: March 20, 2017, 12:36:11 PM by Ty.ty
Hey, i tried building one of these and i have the PCB all soldered up.. Well everything except for the switch, and was able to successfully download the c-code on to the chip but when I try to use it with my n64 it does nothing.. What program did you use to burn the code?  I got a few boards and tried again on another one with another controller and it says that the burn was successfully completed(i made sure i entered both HEX and EEPROM files, as well as set the fuses). I made sure i soldered the white wire nearest the inside and soldered the rest in order as mentioned. Any suggestions?

I may have gotten the order of the wires wrong that i soldered from the connector to the PCB, i have the 2nd revision of the gamecube style stick. Is there anyway i can get a picture of which wire goes where? :o or a picture of the connector with what each wire is?

Ty.ty

#269
March 21, 2017, 07:04:42 AM Last Edit: March 22, 2017, 08:17:31 AM by Ty.ty
This is how i have the board wired.


Is that correct?

micro

#270
March 24, 2017, 08:18:23 AM
Wiring is probably ok. After all, you just need to follow the steps described in the pdf to install the wires correctly.

It's possible that you're using a cheap ISP programmer to flash the microcontroller. These typically provide power to the chip which cannot be turned pff after programming. That means after programming the microcontroller, it will start to execute the calibration function. But you're not ready to wiggle the stick yet. And then you remove the programmer, the calibration is already finished but without a valid result.
Once you turn the console & controller on, nothing works because of this faulty executed calibration.

Solution:
1) Flip the switch after programming the microcontroller (d'oh! ^^)
2) Execute the calibration again by holding L+Z while turning the console on. You have to wire up these buttons of course as shown in the pdf.

Ty.ty

#271
March 24, 2017, 01:02:19 PM
That was 100% the issue. Thank you for all the hard work and dedication to this! I feel like this is how the N64 joystick should of been when they released the console.

Jamm

#272
March 26, 2017, 02:55:22 PM
Just a quick question. The difference about the v3 and v3.5 firmware is like night and day or there is only a small difference? I don't really want to buy everything and have the work of updating the firmware unless there is a huge difference.

micro

#273
March 27, 2017, 12:31:56 AM
As you can see in this post (http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=5803.msg42843#msg42843) the v3.5 firmware will result in more evenly maximum ranges in combination with lopsided potentiometer sticks.
Night & day difference? Not quite...

If you haven't experienced any (range) problems yet then there should be no need for updating the firmware.

Jamm

#274
March 27, 2017, 10:53:23 AM
Thanks for the quick answers. Can you recommend a software to test the range of my controllers?

I will probably buy two more pcb soon because i have two controllers that are almost dying and i want to have four controllers with the pcb. If i purchase the new pcb they are going to come updated with firmware v3.5? Last question, do you sell a decent quality gamecube stick to put the PCB? Here in my country they only sell very cheap chinese gamecube sticks.

Ty.ty

#275
March 28, 2017, 12:54:25 PM Last Edit: March 28, 2017, 12:56:24 PM by Ty.ty
Quote from: skaman on January 29, 2017, 05:41:33 PM

A UK-based eBay vendor "vila_restor" sells the correct 60 degree joystick.  The listing for the joystick is here:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/111355294683

It is a very smooth joystick with little resistance and returns to center very well. I really think it is a great upgraded stick.

Seroczynski

#276
April 03, 2017, 12:59:33 AM
I have finally received the USB programmer and everything else required to flash the 3.5 firmware to my PCB (a shipment was cancelled due to whatever reason, delaying the delivery). I'll report on this soon :)

iacka

#277
May 08, 2017, 08:34:08 PM
So after waiting several months for my USB programmers from aliexpress (like Seroczynski my order was canceled with no notifications letting me know why it got cancelled. Ended up ordering from a different seller.). I successfully flashed firmware v3.5 on my PCB's and I can confirm this has made quite a difference in my experience. I am very happy micro took the time to develop new firmware and write instructions on how to flash everything, thank you very much micro. I have attached a pic comparing the results of what i had previously to the current v3.5. I think you can guess which is which ;)

Seroczynski

#278
May 13, 2017, 03:25:26 AM
I finally got to it. Thanks to you excellent guide I was done in about five minutes and the result is great! See for yourself :)

Before (with firmware 3.0)


After (with firmware 3.5)

Spray110

#279
June 24, 2017, 11:18:40 AM
Hi there, Micro! I've got a question. When using your mod, I feel there's just a tad bit too much deadzone in the "+"-directions.
Is it supposed to do this, or have I done something wrong? (bad batch of pots, as mentioned above perhaps?)
I've put together two or three and they all seem to have the same range and deadzones, unfortunately I've got no software for testing the range of the stick.

Would possibly the 3.5 firmware fix this, or is it something I could do myself with the right equipment?

Thanks!
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