Started by micro, February 15, 2011, 03:06:53 AM
Quote from: micro on January 04, 2012, 10:16:34 PMI no longer own PCE and Mega Drive, but there will be support for other consoles sometime =)
Quote from: micro on January 21, 2012, 10:42:38 PM@Lo!o: The "P" in "ATTiny2313-*P*" stands for PDIP (Plasic Dual In-Line Package). It's not a different typ of microcontroller. It shouldn't matter if you got the 20 MHz or 10 MHz version, though I used the 20 MHz version.
Quote from: micro on June 21, 2012, 07:22:29 PM@konsolkongen: I've also had a set of the official Sega IR controllers. They feel very nice, although they're significantly thicker and the battery lids tend to open in the the heat of the battle There probably won't be special version for those controllers. But if you really want to apply the mod on them then I suggest you remove all electrical components on the PCB (IC, resistors, caps, etc.). Then you can rebuild the circuit of the official wired Sega controller by using 2x 74HC153 ICs (see: http://www.gamesx.com/controldata/saturn.htm). After that you should be able to do the normal Saturn wireless mod on them, but without the voltage regulator inside the pad (no need for that).I guess it's not really worth the effort...
Quote from: micro on June 25, 2012, 12:15:53 AM@Konsolkongen: Just pick two 74HC153 devices (not the 74HCT153), they'll run fine on supply voltage as low as 2V.The NRF transceiver module also works with 1.8 to 3.6V. The only problem I can think of is that 2.4V may be a little bit too low for the Attiny2313. If you run into problems you should use the ATtiny2313V version.
Quote from: public-pervert on June 28, 2012, 04:08:01 AMOn the tests, I'm not using the 22pf capacitors on any clock cristals. Does it really matter?