Weird graphical glitches on my NEW game!! :(

[tomii]

I just got Super Mario Kart (JAP) for my modded PAL SNES, the one game I have always loved but never got!
I plugged in my SNES (which I haven't used for quite a while now) loaded the game, enabled the region switch with that green button you see in the picture... and what do I see?

Well, the game starts and the music is playing, everything is alright, until I press start. The menu shows up, but then quickly disappears in a blink of an eye. I press start again and hear the sound effects that are supposed to accompany the menu change, but same thing happens to the next menu... and the next one after that...

Character selection screen, everything looks fine again. The race starts, the map graphics are messed up...

After this I tried some of my other games. I've got a FFVI (JAP) and Mystic Quest (JAP) that I also bought recently but never tested, the menus in the file selection screen and battles was screwed up in both...

I own quite a few games, like Donkey Kong Country 1(JAP), 2(JAP) Super Mario RPG (US), Wild Guns(JAP) and more, but none of these have ever had any kind of glitches or other problems...

I don't own a gamebit, so I can't open my SNES and look for errors... what should I do?? Please help

PS: I bought my SNES the way you see it on the picture, I didn't do this by myself. It's a PAL machine and the reset button toggles between PAL and NTSC mode.

[tomii]

Okay, now I've also tested Final Fantasy 3 (US) and Super Mario RPG (US) on my machine. These games used to work without any problems whatsoever, but something must've happened to my SNES.
Both games have problems staring up, half of the times I try to start them there is only a black screen.
Sometimes I got them to work, but after the file selection screen SMRPG is nothing more than a black screen with the music playing. I can still control the game though... I also see a tiny thin line of what is supposed to be the background along the left side of the screen.

Same thing with FF3, when I get it to work, it looks fine until you enter the actual game (after file selection) then everything except the character is messed up.

The strange thing is that both these games used to work before!... If someone has any thoughts as to what have happened, please share them!

[NFG]

Have you considered that the cartridge port might be dirty?   I'd give that a good clean and see if there's any improvement.

[kendrick]

I'm going to add this to the Wiki once I get some pictures, but I've discovered that a 5/32" hex driver is a good emergency substitute for the 4.5 mm gamebit. This comes in especially handy for screws located in deep wells, like the one holding the Nomad together. I can't take credit for the observation, as I believe it was Segasonicfan who first suggested doing it.

-KKC, who wonders what the going price for the GC Gameboy Player is.

[tomii]

Lawrence >> I own two SNES. One is modified (the green one in my second post) the other is not.
I was lucky enough to get to borrow a gamebit from one of my friends, so I opened my modified SNES and took out the cartridge port and tested it on my unmodified SNES.
Then I tested Yoshi's Island, (another game that had messed up graphics on my modified machine) and it worked fine. So I guess it's not the cartridge port that is causing the messy graphics.
You can see in one of the pictures how Yoshi's Island looks on my modified machine. The title/logo is nothing more than a line of pixels and the water around the island? It changes color all the time...

I also took a picture of the guts of my modified SNES. Isn't this mod a little different than the one that you present on this site? Does anyone know what that rectangular black piece is??

Does things like this actually wear out? I was thinking if I can't get it to work and no one here can help me, maybe I could try and take all the cables and stuff and solder it to my working SNES? Would that work?

[NeWmAn]

Interesting, who did this mod?

Can you do a clearer (less dark and maybe bit bigger) shot of where the cables go on the PPU chips ?
Are the leads of the black capacitor that sits between U4 and U5 shorted by solder? And is pin #14 of U5 lifted?

[tomii]

I don't know exactly who did it, but I think it was done by some company that sold videogames here in Sweden around 1994 or something, when Final Fantasy 3 came out in the US. If I remember it correctly they offered these mods for people that didn't want to use a converter. I remember they called the mod "Multi-X" and back then it was the only way to play Super Mario RPG.

Anyways, I tried Donkey Kong Country 2. It looked alright until I got to this stage where a fish swims behind you and lights up your way. It's supposed to be cone formed, but as you can see in the pic, the dark part is messed up. This was the only error I could find though.

I took some more pictures and also tried to draw it on paper, but er... it could be done better I guess lol 

[NeWmAn]

Thanks for the photos!
Are you sure about your schematic? Looking at the photos it seems that one of the wires goes to the Red LED and one goes to the Green LED, but maybe I'm wrong.

Pin #81 on U2 could be the Reset signal, pin #13~16 on the modchip seem to be the outputs to toggle the DSPs and LEDs, maybe this foreign chip is just a Flip-flop?
But that modchip is connected to some pins of the CIC chip that aren't the usual ones and I don't understand why they have a capacitor connected to the GND pins of the video ram chips

I would remove the mod and wire the SNES to be permanently a 60Hz machine. That would be the easiest option since you already have most of the wires in place 

[tomii]

Maybe you can't see it that good on the photo, but one of the green led's legs are connected to that green board and one is not and it has got it's own wire which goes to that black thing. What do you call that black rectangular thing by the way? What does it do?

The red led is connected to that green board, but on the other side I guess. And if you look closely under it you can see that the connection has been cut of, the board is scraped.

Yeah I don't think that's a chip either and it's got no label... if it really is one of those flip-flop things do you think they sell this model somewhere? It's a shame I don't know so much about electronics but I'm eager to learn, and next week I'm gonna do my first mod! (on a genesis)...

What is a DSP?

It would be great if someone could figure out how to do a SNES mod like this, because it has worked really well with every game I own, both PAL and NTSC ones... If you want more photos or have any questions I will try to answer them. It would help both PAL and NTSC gamers because they wouldn't have to buy a new machine for every region.

If I make it play only 60hz then I won't be able to play my PAL games.
And if the graphics are screwed up, is it enough to just remove the mod?

*sigh*.. All I wanted was to play Mario Kart, lol... :/

[NeWmAn]

Maybe you can't see it that good on the photo, but one of the green led's legs are connected to that green board and one is not and it has got it's own wire which goes to that black thing. What do you call that black rectangular thing by the way? What does it do?

The red led is connected to that green board, but on the other side I guess. And if you look closely under it you can see that the connection has been cut of, the board is scraped.

I think that both the Red and Green LEDs have a common connection on the green board (PCB) and the other 2 unconnected pins are going to the modchip, either directly or via the scraped line on the PCB.
Anyway this is not important, I was just pointing out that you made a slight error in the schematic you've drawn.

The "black rectangular chip"? Aka the modchip? At first i thought it could have been a microcontroller, like the modchips installed in PSX but now I think it' some simple logic IC.

What is a DSP?

Sorry I was going to write PPU (the bigger chips that generate the video) but instead I wrote DSP

It would be great if someone could figure out how to do a SNES mod like this, because it has worked really well with every game I own, both PAL and NTSC ones... If you want more photos or have any questions I will try to answer them. It would help both PAL and NTSC gamers because they wouldn't have to buy a new machine for every region.

You can install a switched mod, most of the work is already done and you have just to install the switch (check Gamesx guides).

If I make it play only 60hz then I won't be able to play my PAL games.

Most PAL games will play in 60Hz too. And haven't you stated that you own another PAL SNES 

[tomii]

You can install a switched mod, most of the work is already done and you have just to install the switch (check Gamesx guides).

You mean with two small switches? One for 50/60 and one for PAL/NTSC? Hm, yeah I guess I have no choice... but until now I've been using the reset button to toggle between 50/PAL and 60/NTSC, it's a very convenient way of doing it, plus you already have that big button there to use. You shouldn't have to make holes for those ugly switches I think...

Most PAL games will play in 60Hz too. And haven't you stated that you own another PAL SNES 

Yes I have another one, but since the games act all weird on this modded SNES that we've been talking about I might not be able to play with that anymore...
With the mods that are presented on this site, can you play games like Super Mario RPG? That is one of my favorite games and if I wouldn't be able to play that anymore I would be very disappointed

At first i thought it could have been a microcontroller, like the mod chips installed in PSX but now I think it' some simple logic IC.

Ok, so what's the difference between a Logic-IC and a Microcontroller? I think they look the same...
Here are some pictures of microcontrollers:
http://www.kjell.com/?item=90107&path=69800000,69900000,70150000

[NeWmAn]

I've opened a Sfamicom and I've done a bit of research, so far I have found what the black wires do:

Cic #8 normally is GND, it goes to VCC when the reset button is pressed
Cic #10 if the cart in the slot is legal (same region) it is VCC, otherwise it's GND
U2 Pin#1 = GND
U2 Pin#81 = VCC
U5 Pin#20 and U3#24 are the usual 50/60 Selection pins

So, I think that all this "modchip" does is wait for a pression of the reset button, then the Flip-flop changes state and the outputs (LED, 50/60 Switch) change accordingly.
The capacitor between pin 1 & 2 is needed to keep the device enabled long enough to change state.

Can you check if pin #11 on the modchip goes to pin #10 as in your schematic or it goes to pin #9? And while you're at it, can you check if the pin #10 of the CIC (U8) is lifted or interrupted?

You mean with two small switches? One for 50/60 and one for PAL/NTSC? Hm, yeah I guess I have no choice... but until now I've been using the reset button to toggle between 50/PAL and 60/NTSC, it's a very convenient way of doing it, plus you already have that big button there to use. You shouldn't have to make holes for those ugly switches I think...

I think this modification only does 50/60, and the CIC is always disabled, so you'll only need 1 switch.

With the mods that are presented on this site, can you play games like Super Mario RPG?

I don't know... That game was never released in PAL territories so either your cart is internally modded or I don't know how it could have run on your SNES
But if you check this forum you can find info on how to mod SMarioRPG to run on Pal consoles.

Ok, so what's the difference between a Logic-IC and a Microcontroller? I think they look the same...

Those are some devices in DIP packages (as in dual in line pin), the difference between logic chips and microcontrollers (  http://www.kjell.com/?item=90518&path=69800000,69900000,70160000  )lies in what's inside: logic chips do simple logic operations while microcontrollers are complex devices that can be programmed to do complex tasks (in fact they are a computer on a chip).
You can find more info if you search for "7400 series" and "Microcontroller" on Wikipedia.

[tomii]

Can you check if pin #11 on the modchip goes to pin #10 as in your schematic or it goes to pin #9? And while you're at it, can you check if the pin #10 of the CIC (U8) is lifted or interrupted?

I think it looks like it goes to #10. See picture 2 and 3... Also there's a small brown piece of plastic there between #9 and 10# as you can see. What do you think that is for?

Hm, I think U8#10 looks cut off? See pic 1. So does that mean it's "interrupted"?

(1)


(2)


(3)

I think this modification only does 50/60, and the CIC is always disabled, so you'll only need 1 switch.

Okey.. there is a tutorial for that right? lol, I mean one that show how to disable the chip and stuff..

But if you check this forum you can find info on how to mod SMarioRPG to run on Pal consoles.

Cool, I'll check it out!... although I don't really like to cut my precious cartridges (; o ; )

[NeWmAn]

I think it looks like it goes to #10. See picture 2 and 3... Also there's a small brown piece of plastic there between #9 and 10# as you can see. What do you think that is for?

I can't tell from the pictures... I was hoping it went to pin #9 because some devices have an enable pin on #11 but that shouldn't go to GND (Pin #10)
The small brown piece of plastic is a capacitor.

Hm, I think U8#10 looks cut off? See pic 1. So does that mean it's "interrupted"?

Yes, pin #10 is missing so the modchip only switches the video to PAL/NTSC.
If I were you I would mod this console removing the modchip and connecting the 2 wires from the PPUs to GND or +5v and see if it works.

Okey.. there is a tutorial for that right? lol, I mean one that show how to disable the chip and stuff..

http://www.gamesx.com/importmod/snes5060.htm

[viletim]

I think it looks like it goes to #10. See picture 2 and 3... Also there's a small brown piece of plastic there between #9 and 10# as you can see. What do you think that is for?

I can't tell from the pictures... I was hoping it went to pin #9 because some devices have an enable pin on #11 but that shouldn't go to GND (Pin #10)
The small brown piece of plastic is a capacitor.

Maybe there's a small chip resistor hiding under there... The chip would have to be a 74hc573 or '574 though it wouldn't work very well with its enable/clock input tied to ground. Maybe somebody whipped up a flopflop using an octal bus tranceiver....

[NeWmAn]

Maybe there's a small chip resistor hiding under there... The chip would have to be a 74hc573 or '574 t

I thought it would be an inverting latch (74576 or 74580)

[tomii]

If I were you I would mod this console removing the modchip and connecting the 2 wires from the PPUs to GND or +5v and see if it works.

You would have to help me with that in that case. I don't even know what/where the PPU, GND and +5v is :/
If it worked would it fix the graphics problem? or is it just to check if you can connect things that way?

[NeWmAn]

You would have to help me with that in that case. I don't even know what/where the PPU, GND and +5v is :/

PPUs = The 2  chips with S-PPU written on top  Please examine the GamesX page I linked before.

If it worked would it fix the graphics problem? or is it just to check if you can connect things that way?

It is to check if removing the modchip would fix the problem.

Do you have a soldering tool? Can you use it?  If not you better ask someone's help

[tomii]

Do you have a soldering tool? Can you use it?  If not you better ask someone's help

Yes I have a soldering tool. In fact I just finished my first console mod ever! On my Megadrive *and* I also made a scart cable to go with that too of course. It works like a charm and the picture quality is incredible! You can actually see the pixels yo!! hehe

Anyways, to answer your question, I'm a beginner but I want to learn how to do it so I'll do it myself. It'll feel like operating on an old friend

So do you think I should remove *everything*? Including the cables and the green LED, and do the tutorial you gave me?

If it works do I throw the chip in the trash or what? Will I still be able to use the green LED? And if the problem remains?

[NeWmAn]

I don't know what is the problem of your SNES, if I had to guess I would have said what Lawrence said: dirty connector or something like it, but you ruled it out.
Then I would have checked the games or the power supply, but it seems that you cross checked (at least the games) and found no problems with your other SNES.
I would then guess that either the SNES is damaged or the problem is in the mod... Removing the mod would answer this.

If you have the tools and you feel confident it's up to you to decide what to do.

[tomii]

Okey I did the mod you showed me. How does it look?





I just want to know, should I remove everything from the old mod before I test it or can I leave it?
And, one of the legs on U8 is broken/interrupted will this affect anything?

[NeWmAn]

Okey I did the mod you showed me. How does it look?

Messy 

I just want to know, should I remove everything from the old mod before I test it or can I leave it?

You HAVE to remove the 2 wires that went from the modchip to the PPU chips . I see your newly added blue wires, but I can't tell if you have already removed or not the (previously) existing black wires.
And maybe disconnecting the power to the modchip (pin#81 of U2 to modchip pin#20) isn't a bad idea...

And, one of the legs on U8 is broken/interrupted will this affect anything?

Without that pin/leg the SNES will not work, it will be in perpetual reset state.
Now you have a wire that goes from the missing pin to a green capacitor + "blue resistor", you have to desolder the end of the wire that's connected to the capacitor and connect it to a point of the PCB where there's +5v.
A suitable point would be pin #81 from chip U2 or "O" pin from the voltage regulator(Note: with a tester/multimeter you can find plenty of other places.).


P.S.
I have a couple of questions regarding the Multi-X mod:

Can you switch the 50/60 output while the SNES is turned on and the game is running or only at power-on?
Does pressing the RESET button actually reset the game?

[tomii]

You HAVE to remove the 2 wires that went from the modchip to the PPU chips . I see your newly added blue wires, but I can't tell if you have already removed or not the (previously) existing black wires.

I removed the wires and put them under the black tape.

A suitable point would be pin #81 from chip U2 or "O" pin from the voltage regulator(Note: with a tester/multimeter you can find plenty of other places)

I have a multimeter, but I don't know how to use it. Please instruct me



There are 19 different settings, which one should I use?

Can you switch the 50/60 output while the SNES is turned on and the game is running or only at power-on?

Any time you want.

Does pressing the RESET button actually reset the game?

If you actually want to reset the game you'll have to press and hold the reset button for like 2,5 seconds or so, then it resets.

[NeWmAn]

I have a multimeter, but I don't know how to use it. Please instruct me

For 5v measurement rotate the dial 3 clicks counter-clockwise (to 20 V= setting), black lead to GND and red lead to the point you desire to measure.
For continuity check move the dial to the lowest Ohm value (in your case the 6 'o clock - 200 Ohm position), the display should indicate ~0 when there's a connection.

Note:
Your can also use the position with the diode symbol (from OFF move 9 clicks clockwise) to check continuity and (probably) the position with the "9v Batt" (from OFF 8 clicks clockwise) to check voltage.

[tomii]

Thank you!

Does the console have to be on when I do this? The display only shows zero all the time... :/

[NFG]

Yes, the console should be on.  You're not going to have a lot of luck finding live voltages when the thing's off.  =)

[tomii]

Yes, the console should be on.  You're not going to have a lot of luck finding live voltages when the thing's off.  =)

lol Exactly my thought

[tomii]

Uhm, I think I fried the fuse The red lamp just died and won't come on...
Anyone know where one could find 1,5 amp fuses??

[tomii]

I found some fuses that I could use. But thanks anyways.

[phreak97]

tomii, youre skill level is odd, i think you have alot of potential. the level youre at seems to be non-uniform, you seem comfortable with pulling stuff apart, locating components and points on the board, and even drawing out how things are connected, even though youre a complete beginner yet to learn anything about what components are and what they do. i find that quite amazing, usuallly people seem to start off with alll their abilities at pretty much the same level. stay confident and i think you'll go far:)

i can also offer help with modding consoles, but it looks like the replies you've had so far are more knowing overall than what i can offer, so im just wishing you luck:)