Universal wireless controller for SNES, Saturn, N64, etc....

[abduct]

How is version 2 coming of this project?

If you are referring to the official "version 2" you can check Micros progress in this thread below. Last I heard I believe he was working on a sega version of his controller.

http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=5180.0

If you are referring to my branch off I stated I was doing, I have yet to really start. Parts from china have been delayed due to their holidays, but hopefully they should arrive early next week. I'm just waiting on my linear voltage power supplies for my new breadboards. Once those come in I will be able to officially start the project. I've already have all the parts/sourced other parts needed to complete this after the reprogramming is done. When I get something solid functioning I'll make a dedicated thread for it.

[noble7]

Hi everyone,

I've signed up for this forum just because of this thread!

I have one question about the controllers for now for I am a newbie when it comes to electronics but an avid gamer. I've seen the PDF about Universal Wireless Retro Controller v1.1 and have see the word "VCC" in the how to and the skematics.

What is VCC and what devices are used to be a VCC?

Thanks for the help!

[NFG]

I've signed up for this forum just because of this thread!

What is VCC and what devices are used to be a VCC?

Welcome to the forum!

Vcc, for our purposes, is just the positive voltage supply for the circuit.  See wikipedia for futher specifics.

[Justin566]

Hi

I also signed up for this forum just because of the thread i am currently posting in.

Probably obvious or already asked but how do you put in a channel switch?

Thanks

Justin566

[micro]

Have you seen the schematics inside the zip file? (first post of this thread).

The schematics tell you how to connect a channel switch with the microcontroller. If you've seen the schematic but you're still wondering how to, then I guess this mod is above your head. I'm sorry 

[Justin566]

I see it now that I look harder thanks

[Justin566]

I dont see it on N64 TX. That is wair I couldent find it before.

[micro]

There is no channel switch on the transmitting controllers. You select the channel by holding either A or B while turning on the controller.

[Justin566]

I am probably just haveing an off day

[Justin566]

Ok I must of not read that. Thanks for the help. I am so glad that this form has such a quick response time

[Justin566]

I think I have found a way to support a memory pack with a switch on the receiver unit!  what if you put a DPDT switch on the receiver connecting the center pins of the switch to the consoles +3.3v and data lines then on one of the sides connect the receiver and then on the other side a Nintendo 64 controller PCB then mount the PCB along with a dremmeld out piece of the controller case memory pack holder in the receiver. then when you want to save just flip the switch and the power and data will be connected to the built in controller and save to the memory pack in the dremmeld out case piece then flip the switch and it will be reconnected to the receiver. you will need to leave the couch but you wont need to change plugs!

I am sorry that this might be hard to read but I am bad at writing so if this is hard to understand please rewrite the message thanks.

[micro]

I don't think that's gonna work. If you flip the switch you got the controller with the memory pak selected, ok. But with the wireless receiver disconnected, how do you wanna save your game?

I've hear it's possible to plug in a controller with memory pak into controller port 4 and then you can use that memory pak. I don't know if that actually works, though... Source: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?36906-save-to-sd-support-for-memory-cards&p=555309#post555309

[Justin566]

O Duah                                     Thair is no facepalm emotacon?

I guess you could mount a relocated "A" butten on the case?

[biggins363]

I really like this thread, its really the only reason I signed up for the forum. But one thing that I was curious about was, is it possible to make one reciever that i can connect to my n64 or my SNES, depending on which one i'm using at the moment?

[abduct]

Finally got all my parts in after a few months of waiting >.>

Whipped up a controller based on micros initial directions to test my hardware (mainly my radios) on my breadboards and everything went smoothly.

I can now finally start to modify the code and begin on my version. It's been so long I forgot what I even wanted to add any more lol.

Also stay away from Chinese lm317 regulators!!! I was attempting to being to bring a 12v wallwart down to 3.3v for testing and it was working for a while until all of a sudden the regulator started to pump out 12v into my circuit. Luckily my radio was disconnected and I only burnt a Amega8 which I got for free as a sample. I ended up taking 3.3v from the controller port to power both the RX and TX for the project. Going to build myself a proper lab PSU (12v, 5v, 3.3v) from a computer power supply later.

[flagoss]

Would be great to be able to make something like that for memory card support:
http://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-N64-Hypermode-Wireless-Controller-64/dp/B00DMIVDLW

[halfspec]

Hi guys

I've been referencing this thread for about 2 weeks ago preparing, ordering, and building my project. I just got done with my first N64 controller last night and so far it hasn't worked at all.
I'm still debugging my work, but in the meantime I wanted to ask a question about fuses. In the N64 section of micro's zip the fuses are described as:

For RX
high byte   0xDF
low byte   0xEE

For TX
high byte: 0xDF   
low byte:   0xDF

There is no mention of the Extended Fuse. Now I'm new to programming AVRs, so even though every guide I read had a efuse or extended fuse byte being programmed to the microprocessor, there is no mention (that I can find) of setting the extended fuse in micro's tutorial, soooo I didn't program it. Now that nothing is working, I'm curious if that could be the issue. Most people recommend flashing the extended fuse to 0xFF. Is this something I need to do?

Lane

[halfspec]

Hi guys

I've been referencing this thread for about 2 weeks ago preparing, ordering, and building my project. I just got done with my first N64 controller last night and so far it hasn't worked at all.
I'm still debugging my work, but in the meantime I wanted to ask a question about fuses. In the N64 section of micro's zip the fuses are described as:

For RX
high byte   0xDF
low byte   0xEE

For TX
high byte: 0xDF   
low byte:   0xDF

There is no mention of the Extended Fuse. Now I'm new to programming AVRs, so even though every guide I read had a efuse or extended fuse byte being programmed to the microprocessor, there is no mention (that I can find) of setting the extended fuse in micro's tutorial, soooo I didn't program it. Now that nothing is working, I'm curious if that could be the issue. Most people recommend flashing the extended fuse to 0xFF. Is this something I need to do?

Lane

Before anyone wastes their time trying to help me I wanted to come back and say the extended fuse programming was not my issue. Sorry to muddy up the thread with bad info/concerns.

My issue ended up being a complication from working with a 3rd party rumble pack. I bought a 4 pack of rumblepacks off of eBay for $6! I thought it was a great deal, but NONE of them are Nintendo brand and NONE of them are the same brand lol! I've got paks with 3 AAA's 2AA's, and 2AAA's. Of course, I'll have to cut one of the AAA's out of the one that takes 3AAAs but that's further down the road... Needless to say there are some inconsistencies between them and the tutorial. My issue was probably about as boneheaded as you can get. I lost track of the rumblepack's PCB original orientation by not taking before pics and reflowing all of the components off with a heatgun. Turns out the component side for this particular pack was the opposite of Nintendo's. I actually got all my pins wires correctly, but I put the board back in the rumblepack horizontally flipped. Therefore, Pin 1 became Pin 32, etc. On my particular board that effectively reversed the voltage to the controller (although the micro received proper power) and sent the data line to who knows where.
What was weird was the LED I used still lit up a tiny bit. Last night, I suspected I had just mixed up my resistor for the LED. Now I believe it was just a little bit of reverse leakage/breakdown.

Anyway, no harm done apparently. It's working like a champ now. 1 down. 3 more to go!

I'll have to post the specifics when I'm done. My particular application is being integrated inside of a N64->USB convertor to be used with a PC and emulators. That takes care of the memory card issue.

Thank you very much for the time and effort you put into this micro. It's been a very satisfying project so far!

Thanks again
Lane

[micro]

I'm glad you could work it out on your own.

Make sure you don't use 3xAAA's to power the circuit, otherwise the NRF24L01 will die. But you already said that you'll cut out 1 of the 3 AAA's.

[noble7]

Hi fellow controller modders!

I am running into a snag at the moment with trying to flash the chips. I have attached photos of my connections and if you guys can take a gander at it I would really appreciate it and tell me if you see anything wrong. I currently use the usbasp programmer and eXtreme Burner - avr to try and flash my chips.

As of right now I am currently getting a "Power is not reaching the target chip" message when I try to flash the chips themselves. I have attached links to all the photos Any help is much appreciated!!

Images of the circuit:
http://postimg.org/image/j874by22t/
http://postimg.org/image/z3vyf8sn9/
http://postimg.org/image/5q07znpxh/

Images of the diagram for the 10 pin and the error message I get on extreme burner -avr:
http://postimg.org/image/c696pqyh1/
http://postimg.org/image/burqczi11/

Mucho kudos for micro for putting together this awesome tutorial as my dream to play the retro games with a wireless controller has not faded but only grown brighter. A big shout out to anyone and everyone who still is around to help out the prospects with their questions I greatly appreciate all of you guys and hope all is well with each and every one of you.

Thanks,
Noble7

[micro]

I can see that your wires are wrong. Just remove all 10 wires between programming cable and bread board and start from scratch.

Also, your four yellow "ground" wires are not connected on the breadboard. They should be connected with each other AND they should be connected with the GND pin of the microcontroller. Remove your external power supply for now, I don't think you need it. Just re-connect all the wires between the programmer and the bread board.

[noble7]

Hello again!

I've disconnected everything as you instructed and have rewired the pins to the breadboard. I am still not getting any power to the chip BUT another light on the usbasp is turning on when I try to flash the chip which didn't before. (the color is red and not green) Anyways I've attached some more photos to see if anything is wired wrong, I have gone over it about 4 times and I think everything is connected correctly.

I am thinking that maybe the only other way is to solder all the parts together on a protoboard or make my own pcb like public-pervert had done? I've switched out the 10-pin connector and moved the attiny2313 up a few spots thinking there is a problem maybe with one or a couple of the rows on the breadboard but still received the same problem.

This website lists a couple reasons why the chip isn't getting any power, but nothing that I see applies unless I have a bad programmer.
http://extremeelectronics.co.in/downloads/usbavrprogrammer/docs/Troubleshooting.pdf

http://postimg.org/image/mfomsa5fp/
http://postimg.org/image/nj8r48q2t/

I've also tried to use myAVR_Progtool and I get a different response from what eXtremeBurner gives me, something about "cannot set sck period". Is that something that has to do with the crystal on my usbasb programmer?
http://postimg.org/image/muzwlard1/

Thanks!
Noble7

[micro]

Hmm, still looks wrong to me... It seems you left out Pin 10 on the programming cable but you should leave out pin 3:





C'mon, it's not that difficult! 

EDIT: It also seems you shorted RESET and VCC on the microcontroller pin. The way you've inserted the 10k resistor it has no effect. Instead you shorted RESET and VCC. You should try to understand how the rows and columns of your bread board are connected.

Don't wanna discourage you, but programming the microcontroller is one of the easier parts of this mod.

[abduct]

I Also think it looks wrong. According to your images pin 1 would be on the notched/clip side on the side of the red wire. So in your two newest pictured you are actually attaching pin 1 to your voltage rate and pin 2 to MOSI while micros 10pin ISP says to do the opposite. Now this may not be the case with your programmer as it may be different with the pinouts, but if it were to follow what micro has depicted in his schematics this would be wrong (and could potentially hurt your programmer). Also from what I see, is pin 4 of your ISP (orange wire) is going to RESET (pin 1 on the mcu) when according to Micros schematics pin 4 should go to ground.

Here is a simplified drawing I whipped up. I would double check my pin outs just in case I used the wrong chip (although I'm fairly sure I didn't). The gap on the left side of the 10pin ISP header would be your clip/slot on your header. So pin1 would be clip side red wire side of the connector.

http://i.imgur.com/PcmoooP.png

[noble7]

Howdy Abduct!

Thanks for the reply! and after a few messages between micro and I, I decided to make a protoboard of the micros schematics and made it work on the first try!! (I'm thinking it was a fluke or my breadboard did not want to cooperate.)

If there is anyone else having trouble with the flashing and would like to make what I made just let me know and I'll include a list of the parts I used to make it happen.

Here are my proto boards with the ATTiny2313 on the right and the ATMega8 on the left!
http://postimg.org/image/olje65ptx/

As well as the beautiful sight that the programmer tells me that everything has worked out great!
http://postimg.org/image/injd15b0l/
http://postimg.org/image/qubcsq139/

Now I am rolling on to the controller portion and hopefully that goes smoother than the flashing part!

Once again thanks to the peeps who continue to help and encourage others on this forum as well as major kudos to Micro for his continued support and awesome tutorial!

Cheers,
Noble7

[abduct]

Once again thanks to the peeps who continue to help and encourage others on this forum as well as major kudos to Micro for his continued support and awesome tutorial!

Cheers,
Noble7

Glad to hear you got it working. Hopefully you can make the real portion of the controllers easier then the programming side! I've been meaning to take up this project again, but between university and other projects this one has been put on the back burner (my TX and RX n64 controllers are sitting on my breadboards beside my console :/). Hopefully once I get a few programming projects out of the way I can free up some time for the wireless controllers.

[niceguy]

Need some serious help guys, been trying to get my saturn wireless to work with no success

Ok I have a Atmega8-PU 16 MHZ Microcontroller I am struggling to configure to use a external 16 MHZ crystal.

I set all the high and low bits using the AVR calculator to set desired fuse configuration but when I place the chip in circuit on my bread board and scope the external 16MHZ crystal there is no clock. Yes I have it wired correctly with two 22p caps


High byte:0xDF
Low byte:   0xEE

I am using a topmax2 universal programmer to program the AVR and set fuses.  I was wondering do the external crystal and caps need to be installed on the AVR when you are initially programming and configuring it to run with a external clock. I ask because I am not doing in system programming of the AVR. I am programming it on a chipmax2 universal programmer.


LOW

Bodlevel 1       (unprogrammed)
Boden    1       (unprogrammed)
Suto1     1       (unprogrammed)
Suto0     0         Programmed
Cksel3    1       (unprogrammed)
Cksel2    1       (unprogrammed)
Cksel1    1       (unprogrammed)
Cksel0    0        Programmed

High

Rstdisbl  1         (unprogrammed)
Wtdon   1          (unprogrammed)
Spien     0           Programmed
Ckopt    1          (unprogrammed)
Eesave  1          (unprogrammed)
Bootsz   1          (unprogrammed)
Bootrst   1         (unprogrammed)


I leave all the BLB and LB as 1= erased

Really appreciate the help

[abduct]

Need some serious help guys, been trying to get my saturn wireless to work with no success

Ok I have a Atmega8-PU 16 MHZ Microcontroller I am struggling to configure to use a external 16 MHZ crystal.

I set all the high and low bits using the AVR calculator to set desired fuse configuration but when I place the chip in circuit on my bread board and scope the external 16MHZ crystal there is no clock. Yes I have it wired correctly with two 22p caps

From what I can tell that looks correct, although it's hard to tell from over the internet if it is actually being set on your chip or not. Do you get any activity from the chip, I would imagine even if its using say the 8mhz internal clock you would still get some output on the pins going to the radio. Have you tried reading the chip after writing to verify that its written?

And no you do not need ISP or the crystal hooked up while programming to make it work. Have you tried using another programmer to check to see maybe it is the software not working? Is this your first project with the programmer or have you done others successfully?

This could be from any number of reasons from faulty programmers hardware or software side, bad micro controller and everything in between.

[niceguy]

Need some serious help guys, been trying to get my saturn wireless to work with no success

Ok I have a Atmega8-PU 16 MHZ Microcontroller I am struggling to configure to use a external 16 MHZ crystal.

I set all the high and low bits using the AVR calculator to set desired fuse configuration but when I place the chip in circuit on my bread board and scope the external 16MHZ crystal there is no clock. Yes I have it wired correctly with two 22p caps

From what I can tell that looks correct, although it's hard to tell from over the internet if it is actually being set on your chip or not. Do you get any activity from the chip, I would imagine even if its using say the 8mhz internal clock you would still get some output on the pins going to the radio. Have you tried reading the chip after writing to verify that its written?

And no you do not need ISP or the crystal hooked up while programming to make it work. Have you tried using another programmer to check to see maybe it is the software not working? Is this your first project with the programmer or have you done others successfully?

This could be from any number of reasons from faulty programmers hardware or software side, bad micro controller and everything in between.

I tried two different atmega8 granted the first one was a 8Mhz chip. The second and current atmega is a 16Mhz version however and it is not working.

What I have observed is if I use a 12MHZ and lower crystal I can get a clock from the chip, however the receiver does not function. I have tried two 16MHZ crystal and a army of different frequency crystals between 12MHZ and 16MHZ but the thing will not produce a clock with any crystal over 12MHZ

I have tried two universal programmers, my personal hobbyist top2049 and a professional topmax2 universal programmer and no go with 16MHZ crystal. The topmax is actually my company programmer and I personally have program countless latest and greatest not just the dated MCU on this thing.

I have owned and worked with both of these programmers for literally years, having used both on countless projects.

After programming the hex file I verified it was burned by hitting the verify button on the universal programmer and it came back chip program matches that of the buffer so yes it is verified hex file has been programmed.

[abduct]

I tried two different atmega8 granted the first one was a 8Mhz chip. The second and current atmega is a 16Mhz version however and it is not working.

What I have observed is if I use a 12MHZ and lower crystal I can get a clock from the chip, however the receiver does not function. I have tried two 16MHZ crystal and a army of different frequency crystals between 12MHZ and 16MHZ but the thing will not produce a clock with any crystal over 12MHZ

I have tried two universal programmers, my personal hobbyist top2049 and a professional topmax2 universal programmer and no go with 16MHZ crystal. The topmax is actually my company programmer and I personally have program countless latest and greatest not just the dated MCU on this thing.

I have owned and worked with both of these programmers for literally years, having used both on countless projects.

After programming the hex file I verified it was burned by hitting the verify button on the universal programmer and it came back chip program matches that of the buffer so yes it is verified hex file has been programmed.

That answered most of my questions. I am not exactly sure what is going on then. What is weird is that you can find the clock on a sub 12mhz crystal, but not anything higher. I am not quite sure what is happening so maybe someone else can ask other questions or provide insight. My Minipro universal flasher with sparkfun.com 16mhz crystals worked without any fuss when programed.

Sorry I was not much help.

[niceguy]

I tried two different atmega8 granted the first one was a 8Mhz chip. The second and current atmega is a 16Mhz version however and it is not working.

What I have observed is if I use a 12MHZ and lower crystal I can get a clock from the chip, however the receiver does not function. I have tried two 16MHZ crystal and a army of different frequency crystals between 12MHZ and 16MHZ but the thing will not produce a clock with any crystal over 12MHZ

I have tried two universal programmers, my personal hobbyist top2049 and a professional topmax2 universal programmer and no go with 16MHZ crystal. The topmax is actually my company programmer and I personally have program countless latest and greatest not just the dated MCU on this thing.

I have owned and worked with both of these programmers for literally years, having used both on countless projects.

After programming the hex file I verified it was burned by hitting the verify button on the universal programmer and it came back chip program matches that of the buffer so yes it is verified hex file has been programmed.

That answered most of my questions. I am not exactly sure what is going on then. What is weird is that you can find the clock on a sub 12mhz crystal, but not anything higher. I am not quite sure what is happening so maybe someone else can ask other questions or provide insight. My Minipro universal flasher with sparkfun.com 16mhz crystals worked without any fuss when programed.

Sorry I was not much help.

The design calls for a ATMEGA8-16PU and I am using a ATMEGA8A-PU which is a 16MHZ and should be equivalent going by the datasheet.

I guess I will order the exact MCU now and see if it helps

[niceguy]

Just ordered another MCU and still no luck, there is no clock on the receiver for my saturn project.

Can someone help by just cutting to the chase here. For all you guys who got this working can you post how you set your fuses not by the hex low byte/ high byte value but please list like I did how you set each individual fuse.


I just read through the datasheet and came across this line

"For resonators, the maximum frequency is 8MHz with CKOPT unprogrammed and 16MHz with
CKOPT programmed."

However when I enter the low and high bits from the included instructions into the fuse calculator Ckopt is unprogrammed which means I am limited to 8mhz. Really strange thing is although I can never get any oscillation using a 16mhz crystal I have gotten smaller frequency crystals to oscillate.



Here is a pic of my receiver



Thanks for the help

[micro]

I just read through the datasheet and came across this line

"For resonators, the maximum frequency is 8MHz with CKOPT unprogrammed and 16MHz with
CKOPT programmed."

However when I enter the low and high bits from the included instructions into the fuse calculator Ckopt is unprogrammed which means I am limited to 8mhz.

Yes, but we're not dealing with a resonator but a crystal.

Unfortunately on your pic I can't see where the interesting wires of the crystal and the caps go. Maybe you should shoot another one from a different angle.

[niceguy]

I just read through the datasheet and came across this line

"For resonators, the maximum frequency is 8MHz with CKOPT unprogrammed and 16MHz with
CKOPT programmed."

However when I enter the low and high bits from the included instructions into the fuse calculator Ckopt is unprogrammed which means I am limited to 8mhz.

Yes, but we're not dealing with a resonator but a crystal.

Unfortunately on your pic I can't see where the interesting wires of the crystal and the caps go. Maybe you should shoot another one from a different angle.

Here's a pic from the side

[micro]

It looks ok to me.

Have you tried to use the different fusebyte value I told you in the PM?
low: 0xFF
high: 0xDF

[niceguy]

It looks ok to me.

Have you tried to use the different fusebyte value I told you in the PM?
low: 0xFF
high: 0xDF

Tried your new bit setting and still no clock.

[micro]

Well then I'm out of ideas... 

[niceguy]

Well then I'm out of ideas... 

The thing I have noticed is since the high/low bytes fuse settings in the instructions have not worked after trying for 2 weeks I then deviated from those instructions and program CKOPT and got my 16 MHZ clock but the project still does not work. Since I can get no one here to chime in who has gotten the saturn wireless controller working I am left to believe based on what I have observe when I manually played with the fuses and got at least the clock to work that the high and low bytes for the fuses in the instructions given are not accurate.

[micro]

I've tried to redo your experiment. I've put an Atmega8-16PU on a bread board including 1x 16 MHz crystal, 2x 22 pF and an ISP-socket.



I flashed the MCU with the SAT_RX3.hex and used the fuse bytes according to the instructions (low: 0xEE; high: 0xDF). After successfully flashing the MCU I immediately tried to read/flash the MCU again, and it worked. If you've set your MCU to use an external crystal (just as we need to do with the Saturn receiving circuit), then further reading/programming of the MCU via ISP is only possible if the crystal is actually installed correctly. The fact that I could program the MCU again means the crystal oscillator is working .
(IIRC you're not using an ISP programmer, but a parallel programmer. Via parallel programming it's always possible to re-flash your MCU, no matter how screwed up your fuse bytes are).

So the next step was to see the clock on my oscilloscope. I connected the probe to one pin of the crystal but I couldn't see a thing. The problem was that the impedance of the probe had an influence on the oscillating circuit to the point, it didn't work any longer. I switched the probe to a higher impedance (10x instead of 1x) and I could see a (distorted) clock signal:


So here's my conclusion: The fuse bytes are correct and your receiving circuit is working, even if you can't see a clock on your oscilloscope. Keep in mind, the same MCU, crystal and fuse byte settings are required for the N64 receiver. And there are many people how succesfully build wireless N64 controllers.

There's a nice test to see if your receiver is working: Plug in a stock controller into port 1 of your Saturn. Now load Street Fighter Zero 2, Puzzle Fighter or Pocket Fighter. Go to the main menu. You'll see that "Versus Mode" is disabled. Now plug in your receiver in port 2 and if the circuit is working "Versus Mode" should be enabled now.

Of course, there are tons of other reasons why the wireless controller doesn't work. Maybe you've made a mistake on the transmitting side. Common source for mistakes on the transmitting circuit: The MISO and MOSI lines should not be connected to the pins labeled as MISO and MOSI, double check the schematic and your wiring!

[niceguy]

Where do those two lines go on the transmitter then if they do not go where your schematic is telling me to put them, can you clarify.


Ok I change my probe setting and now I get the clock on the receiver like you demonstrated. I plugged the receiver into my saturn and booted with vampire savior, a game which only high lights versus if a controller is plugged in player 2 and after which player 2 was detected when I plugged in the receiver. I am still not sure if this detection is simply however basically pin 6 at 5 volts or does this detection actually involves the MCU.

This is where I am at. I now get the clock on the receiver from both the crystal on the MCU and the crystal on the transceiver.


The TX now is my focus. I am not sure how you want me to wire the MISO and MOSI since your schematic is telling me two things. Right now I have Mosi at pin 18 of the attiny and Miso at pin 17 of the attiny

Also following your instructions to place the pad VCC on pin 11 of the attiny, when measured I get milivolts at best

My Fuse settings are as followed

LOW


Ckdiv8    0
Ckout     1
Suto1     1       
Suto0     0         
Cksel3    0
Cksel2    1       
Cksel1    0
Cksel0    0     

High

Dwen           1
Wtdon         1         
Spien           0         
Wdton         1
Eesave        1         
Bodlevel 2   1
Bodlevel 1   0   
Bodlevel0    1
Rstdis         1

Selfprog      1


Thanks for the help

BTW I noticed your a Rigol man