I got a nice Flatscreen TV for Christmas with Component (YCrCb) video input, I also have a bunch of game consoles (SNES, Sega Genesis 2, etc.) that can output RGB. Since I can't get into the TV's service menu to see if I can find an RGB mode hidden somewhere, what's the cheapest way to turn the RGB into a Component (YCrCb) signal?
Have a look in the archives please. There are a couple of previous conversations that cover exactly this topic:
http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2026 (http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2026)
http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1739 (http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1739)
-KKC
I was kinda after something I didn't have to assemble, something I can just take out of the box, plug it in and I'm good to go. Preferably taking an RGB SCART input since those cables (even for consoles) can be easily bought on the net, and turning it into Component Video and RCA Audio outputs.
the route you want will likely cost you more money..
You could get an XRGB unit and a VGA-to-component transcoder and use it that way, but it will cost you way more, and you will have to mod the XRGB for SCART.
I just have a normal interlaced TV, why would I need an XRGB?
QuoteI just have a normal interlaced TV, why would I need an XRGB?
um, when your using the game consoles you listed, the TV ain't interlaced anymore, it becomes NON-interlaced (progressive scan)...
XRGB is a product that can convert signals to other signals.. meaning, exactly what you want... just, more expensive than the route I gave..
Non-interlaced does not mean progressive.
Since you're not trying to upscan the signal you can safely skip the XRGB stage and use an RGB->component transcoder. You just need to find one that handles 15kHz signals.
QuoteNon-interlaced does not mean progressive.
then what "does" it mean? i hear non-interlaced and progressive scan used synonymously.
The terminology is hopelessly screwed up at this point. However, in general 'progressive' is supposed to mean that every line of every frame is drawn completely, top to bottom. Most people understand this to mean that it's not interlaced. However, it's entirely possible to double your line drawing or redraw the previous frame completely, and technically your screen is not interlaced.
Lawrence's point is that there is an exclusive middle that is not interlaced, but is also not progressive. They're not opposite terms, although it's easier to think of them as such.
-KKC
The idea is that feeding, for example, my TV a 480i source the output isn't interlaced (Because the TV upscales the image, and doesn't interlace the display).
While the source may be called 480i, it's just a 320x240 input, and a 480i display would simply double the fields.
You can output 320x240 in say, an NES emulator on your PC, and it's not interlaced either.
Am I understanding what is meant here? I lurk alot because I'm trying to learn stuff from everyone.
an NTSC TV can do both 480i and 240p...
If you use a NES emulator on a TV, it will be 480i, unless your video card can do 240p (which most don't, they just upscale to 480i)..
if you use a real NES on the TV, it's 240p..
a Genesis for example, can do both.. Normally ALL games are 240p, but the Sonic 2 2-player mode is 480i..
I came across a chip that Intersil has put out recently, that will convert the source to componet out. I was going to order some samples of it soon. I just didn't want to order some more sample from them so soon again, not sure what is cool with that sort of thing.
I am hoping to make a converter box for various old console/video systems to work on modern displays. At first I was going to do a box just for 15kHz rgb monitors, but realised when I came across the new chip that it would probably be more of what people are going to want.
I don't have an HDTV tv, so I haven't started much towards it yet though.
can't he just use that j-rok converter?
Jrok rules, get one of those. I love mine.
QuoteI just have a normal interlaced TV, why would I need an XRGB?
Quotecan't he just use that j-rok converter?
QuoteI was kinda after something I didn't have to assemble
I might also point out that you did not earlier mention your TV was interlace-only.
Richter X,
SCART to YUV/Component in three RCA plugs are pretty common in europe. I've heard this one (http://www.converters.tv/products/rgb_to_ntsc/46.html) works pretty well and is available from lots of places. Only preblem with it is you'll need to modify it (drill some holes, mount some extra connectors) or use another cable adaptor to get at the audio signal. Have a look around ebay UK and other dodgy euro online shops.
Whether the video is interlaced or not isn't even remotely relevent...
I did some searching on eBay and found this (http://cgi.ebay.com/SCART-Converter-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Adaptor-rt_W0QQitemZ150117384078QQihZ005QQcategoryZ61395QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem), would it work the same way as the more expensive convertors?
This one has been in discussion on some forums. From what I see, it does NO conversion, and merely just grabs Component Signals from SCART (as some consoles send Component over the RGB wires)..
That's not what it says, but I've NEVER seen one that cheap in my entire life. Notice he don't have other pictures of it, just that one.
Also, it says YUV. Component video isn't YUV, it's YPrPb...
how in the world do you have an interlace only lcd?
Quotehow in the world do you have an interlace only lcd?
they do sell them here at Sears.. small things though, not big ones. These things are like Table Tops, and don't do HD or ED..
Here's form Wikipedia.
...The YPbPr color model used in analog component video and its digital child YCbCr used in digital video are more or less derived from it (Cb/Pb and Cr/Pr are deviations from grey on blue-yellow and red-cyan axes whereas U and V are blue-luminance and red-luminance differences), and are sometimes inaccurately called "YUV"....
:Confusion with YCbCr
YUV is often and mistakenly used as the term for YCbCr. However, they are different formats. YUV is an analog system with scale factors different than the digital YCbCr system.
Also, why is it when I use the RF Switch the picture looks too bright when I turn on the Genesis, then goes slightly less bright after a couple of seconds? Is there something I should be looking for?
AGC, don't worry about it...