N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 / firmware v3.5 - PCBs available again (August 2017)

Started by micro, March 13, 2015, 08:57:38 AM

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micro

It's that time again...
N64 Stick Converter PCB v3


Differences between v3 and v2.x:

  • The v3 PCB is easier to assemble because it got larger solder pads.
  • Re-enabling calibration mode is much easier, just flip the sliding switch.
  • Alternatively execute calibration mode by holding a button combination on the N64 controller while switching on the console. No need for opening the controller & stick to get access to the sliding switch. (optional)
  • Extended range mode for higher analog stick values in the diagonal corners. Enabled by holding the R button while turning on the console. (optional)
  • Attention: following features from v2.x have been removed:

    • Support for bigger analog sticks found in Playstation and Xbox controllers.
    • Support for slider joysticks found in the PSP.
    • The ability to invert the X- and/or Y-axis. (There is another way to do that)

Installation guide: http://www.mediafire.com/download/jtdtf6ofb2i4ep3/N64+Stick+Converter+PCB+v3+(english).pdf


How to order:

Just send me an email: v3@borscht.33mail.com
Please specify the amount of PCB sets you want (maximum = 4) and also don't forget to include your full shipping address including your name and country as one block. I will reply with instructions on how to pay with Paypal. :) No address = no response!  8) Please note that I don't ship to Brazil currently.
Price:
The price for one N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 set is 12€. Worldwide registered airmail shipping is 7€ flat.
Notes:
- Be sure to check your spam folder if you don't get a reply from me.
- No need to ask for availability. As long as you can see the email address above, the PCB sets are available.




v3.5 firmware: http://www.mediafire.com/file/s304xtjtci35mh7/N64_STICK_CONVERTER_FIRMWARE_V3.5.zip
firmware update guide: http://www.mediafire.com/file/w53dq5rkvdpa6hg/N64+Stick+Converter+PCB+v3+-+firmware+update+guide.pdf




Make your own N64 Stick Converter PCB's:

I've released the gerber files required to order the PCB as well as the program code. That means you can order, assemble and program the N64 Stick Converter PCB's yourself. :)
N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 - gerber files & microcontroller program.zip
Please be aware that you're only entitled to use the files provided for your own personal, non-commercial use. I don't want to see people selling these PCB's everywhere...

You can use the included gerber files inside the archive to order the PCB at well-known PCB fabrication houses such as Itead (more specific: https://www.itead.cc/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping/2layer-green-pcb-5cm-x-5cm-max.html) or Elecrow (more specific: http://www.elecrow.com/10pcs-2-layer-pcb-p-1175.html).
Make sure you choose the right thickness of 1.2 mm.

The following table contains all the needed parts for the PCB. You might have a very hard time sourcing the analogue stick itself if you're not from Germany. Until now I don't know another source other than the shops listed below. (I can't provide you with the neccessary parts, don't even ask! ^^)








QtyDescriptionValuePackageMouser.comConrad.deVoelkner.de
1Attiny24A microcontroller-SOIC-14www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATTINY24A-SSURhttps://www.conrad.de/de/embedded-mikrocontroller-attiny24a-ssu-soic-14-atmel-8-bit-20-mhz-anzahl-io-12-1267301.htmlhttp://www.voelkner.de/products/750674/Atmel-Embedded-Mikrocontroller-ATTINY24A-SSU-SOIC-14-8-Bit-20-MHz-Anzahl-I-O-12.html
1ceramic capacitor100 nF0805http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/08055C104KAT2Ahttps://www.conrad.de/de/keramik-kondensator-smd-0805-01-f-50-v-10-kemet-c0805c104k5rac7800-1-st-458043.htmlhttp://www.voelkner.de/products/262399/Kondensator0.1-Uf-10-50v-X7r-0805.html
1resistor10 kOhm0805http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yageo/RC0805FR-0710KLhttps://www.conrad.de/de/dickschicht-widerstand-10-k-smd-0805-0125-w-1-royalohm-0805s8f1002t5e-1-st-1208695.htmlhttp://www.voelkner.de/products/713331/Royalohm-Dickschicht-Widerstand-10-k-SMD-0805-0.125-W-1-0805S8F1002T5E-1-St..html
1sliding switch (optional)-SMDhttp://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SSSS810701n/an/a
1joystick10 kOhm; 60°16.7 mm x 16.7 mmn/ahttps://www.conrad.de/de/joystick-12-vdc-metallhebel-gerade-loetpins-98002c6-1-st-425609.htmlhttp://www.voelkner.de/products/69582/3d-Joystick-fuer-Potentiometer-ohne-Schalter.html

After you've assembled the PCB you still need to program the microcontroller with program code provided inside the archive. The N64 Stick Converter PCB got a standard 6-pin ISP interface for programming the microcontroller. Use the .hex and .eep to program both the flash memory and the EEPROM of the microcontroller. Also stick to the fuse byte settings provided inside the archive.




Source code:

If you're interested in the source code of this project, you can download it from here.




Note:
It seems there's a new version of the GC-style N64 replacement stick out there. The PCB inside those new sticks looks different from the one shown in the installation guide. At the moment it isn't known yet if the N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 will fit into this new version of the GC-style N64 replacement stick.
If you want to play it safe, please open your GC-style stick and confirm that it looks like the one shown in the installation guide. If it doesn't, then you shouldn't order any N64 Stick Converter PCB's from me. Instead please wait until it's known whether those new GC-style sticks are compatible with the N64 Stick Converter PCB v3 or not. :) Update: Apparently they also fit into the new GC-style sticks -> msg41280   msg41297

micro

#1
It seems that email forwarding works quite well...  ;D

Unfortunately I got some problems with the analog potentiometer joysticks. My supplier (and I only know this source) is absolutely incapable of wrapping up these joysticks properly. They stuff a lot of these joysticks in a small bag. Then they squeeze that bag into a flat cardboard box. No suitable padding at all. It's just insane.

4 out of 5 joystick shipments just looked like this:


At least they haven't forgotten the stupid flyers...  :P

I hope the next replacement delivery is fine (I've had a lot of calls and emails exchanged with the customer support in the last few weeks.) I still got some (but not many) fine joysticks left from that single shipment which was ok for a change. That means shipping of the most packages will be delayed until I finally receive a new replacement batch of the joysticks. It can be helped. :-\

patsey

Ahhe that's just awful packaging! A least they are sending you a replacement batch. Hopefully they are packaged properly! Still can't wait to get my hands on these

MockyLock

Hey micro :)
So you found a trick for the diagonal issue, good job !
I'm gonna buy you 2 in order to try this.
Thanks for the updated sticks !

Tsurugi_Takuma

This is exciting, real happy that my lot is already in the mail. Hopefully I'll get a chance to install at least 1 of them before I'll have to start getting ready to move to the house I just bought  ;D

micro

Quote from: patsey on March 15, 2015, 07:41:27 PM
Ahhe that's just awful packaging! A least they are sending you a replacement batch. Hopefully they are packaged properly! Still can't wait to get my hands on these
Well, the last two pics show the replacement delivery for the replacement delivery for the original order I've placed and paid like 5 weeks ago. Absolutely insane! :o
Fortunately it seems the problem will be resolved soon - at last!  :)

Quote from: Tsurugi_Takuma on March 17, 2015, 05:13:47 AM
This is exciting, real happy that my lot is already in the mail. Hopefully I'll get a chance to install at least 1 of them before I'll have to start getting ready to move to the house I just bought  ;D
Haha, shouldn't you be doing some DIY stuff in your new home then instead of playing around with your N64? Just kidding... ;)


I'd also like to mention that the batch is nearly gone. If someone's interested in the PCB, please hurry up and contact me, they won't last for much longer...

themartonfi

Hey I was really interested in getting one of the converter PCBs from you. When I click the email link it doesn't do anything. I was wondering if I could contact you another way?

Tsurugi_Takuma

Quote from: micro on March 17, 2015, 09:11:37 AM
Haha, shouldn't you be doing some DIY stuff in your new home then instead of playing around with your N64? Just kidding... ;)
You're completely right, please don't tell the missus  8)

Will post review here once one PCB is installed properly, but by then all will be gone I guess. Should have bought 100 before the limit was set to 4, could have made a killing  ;)

Andy-Antsinpants

I've got four v2 kits yet. Micro, you once mentioned there'll be a patch available to upgrade the v2 PCBs to the v3's firmware. Could you please give us more information about when the patch will be released and how it will be applied? Many thanks for your good work.

micro

Quote from: themartonfi on March 17, 2015, 12:08:00 PM
Hey I was really interested in getting one of the converter PCBs from you. When I click the email link it doesn't do anything. I was wondering if I could contact you another way?
Strange... Well, the email address was v3@borscht.33mail.com but I fear the PCB's are already gone...  I hope you managed to contact me in time.

Quote from: Andy-Antsinpants on March 17, 2015, 07:40:03 PM
I've got four v2 kits yet. Micro, you once mentioned there'll be a patch available to upgrade the v2 PCBs to the v3's firmware. Could you please give us more information about when the patch will be released and how it will be applied? Many thanks for your good work.
Yes, the v3 firmware (or program or whatever you like to call it) is compatible with the v2.x PCB's. I'll make a guide showing exactly what to do. Just give me a break, please! ;)

Updating the v2.x PCB only makes sense if you actually want to use the new features. You'll need at least an AVR ISP programmer. A 6 pin adaptor and some pogo pins are optional but they make the programming procedure a lot easier because in that case no soldering will be required.

If you want to buy the programmer now to be prepared, here are some eBay links:
Programmer: http://www.ebay.de/itm/331211711785
6-pin adaptor: http://www.ebay.de/itm/221686920305
Pogo pins: http://www.ebay.de/itm/400560672835

Andy-Antsinpants

#10
Thank you so much! The costs for the needed parts seem to be low enough that I'm looking forward to do it by myself once the guide is released.

I have interest in the newest firmware for Perfect Dark and GoldenEye mainly, but I'm sure other games will benefit from the extended range mode feature, too.

ohyeahohyeaaaah

#11
I received my kit yesterday. Installation was quite easy. This kit finally restored my N64 controller to a new/better-than-new state. After installing the previous replacement stick, I thought I was just bad at videogames and kid-me was too elite to beat. However, after installing this kit, I can finally aim in Perfect Dark again, not crash into every wall in F-Zero, do spin attacks in Zelda, Smash attacks in Smash Bros, and manoeuvre like a pro in Super Mario 64 again. This kit is worth every cent! If you found this thread through Google, just pray Micro will make a new batch soon, as I can't stress enough how happy I am that I can play my N64 again like I did when I was young!

tim

#12
What, they're already gone? I updated the page every day until I got connection problems because of my ISP (problems started on the 12th), and today it got fixed.
Oh well, I haven't been able to play my N64 for 10+ years, so I guess I can wait a few more years.

blecky

Quote from: tim on March 21, 2015, 10:47:37 AM
What, they're already gone? I updated the page every day until I got connection problems because of my ISP (problems started on the 12th), and today it got fixed.
Oh well, I haven't been able to play my N64 for 10+ years, so I guess I can wait a few more years.

You can try this:

http://freneticrapport.blogspot.com.au/2014/10/n64-gc-replacement-stick-ic-swap.html

NFG

They're gone already!?  Dang, I was hoping to get in on this batch too.  =(

micro

Quote from: Lawrence on March 21, 2015, 09:20:21 PM
They're gone already!?  Dang, I was hoping to get in on this batch too.  =(
Aaaargh, why didn't you just give me your address? I told you that I wanted to give you a free PCB set... :(



Quote from: tim on March 21, 2015, 10:47:37 AM
What, they're already gone? I updated the page every day until I got connection problems because of my ISP (problems started on the 12th), and today it got fixed.
Oh well, I haven't been able to play my N64 for 10+ years, so I guess I can wait a few more years.
Yes, I have to admit that this batch was gone quite fast. Originally I wanted this to be my last batch but I realize that there's still demand for the PCB's. So I will make another one :)
I will accept pre-orders until 4th April 2015; see first post for more informations.



Quote from: blecky on March 21, 2015, 03:54:58 PM
Quote from: tim on March 21, 2015, 10:47:37 AM
What, they're already gone? I updated the page every day until I got connection problems because of my ISP (problems started on the 12th), and today it got fixed.
Oh well, I haven't been able to play my N64 for 10+ years, so I guess I can wait a few more years.

You can try this:

http://freneticrapport.blogspot.com.au/2014/10/n64-gc-replacement-stick-ic-swap.html
Nice! 8) But without the 60° potentiometer joystick the result can't be as good as it should be.

NFG

Quote from: micro on March 22, 2015, 03:58:53 AMAaaargh, why didn't you just give me your address? I told you that I wanted to give you a free PCB set... :(

Because I'm lazy and slow, obviously.  Are you new here?  ;)

Next time!  I'll take two please.  Put my name down.  Take my money!

tim

Quote from: micro on March 22, 2015, 03:58:53 AM
Yes, I have to admit that this batch was gone quite fast. Originally I wanted this to be my last batch but I realize that there's still demand for the PCB's. So I will make another one :)
I will accept pre-orders until 4th April 2015; see first post for more informations.
Perfect mate! I sent a mail! Just so typical that it goes up when my internet goes down. and is sold out when it's back up again :P

Quote from: blecky on March 21, 2015, 03:54:58 PM
You can try this:
http://freneticrapport.blogspot.com.au/2014/10/n64-gc-replacement-stick-ic-swap.html
Thanks, but I can wait for micro's 2nd batch :) something proven to be great and seems easy enough for me to install.

Traveller

Im probably going to place a pre-order, even if I don't actually use them for awhile.

As an aside, is the installation easy for someone with zero experience in soldering etc? Does anyone offer to replace the board for others?

Thanks a lot.

ohyeahohyeaaaah

Hi Traveller, soldering this kit is actually pretty easy. I only have very little experience, and I managed to do it and got it right the first time. The most important part for me was the helping hands. None of the required parts (soldering iron, helping hands, solder, maybe extra wire) are expensive either. You can also buy some hobby kits that cost less than €5 that allow you to practice to get the hang of soldering before actually beginning.

Majoras Mask

hi and thanks for a quick delivery, super excited about these updated ones!

i have some trouble though, and would be thankful for any input.

Now, i admit i'm an amateur when it comes to soldering, but i have
successfully put together 3 kits from the previous version of the PCB, and
those are supposed to be trickier than the new ones so ;)

Anyway, so far i have put together 2 boards
and they both have the same issue: the control stick has some automatic input, no matter
what i do to the stick, everything just goes around and around. There is no way to steer,
the stick is not inputing when moving it about.

I have checked for bridges etc but can't see with my eyes what is wrong, and since i'm getting the same
result with 2 boards, i'm afraid to try to put together more..don't want to ruin them.

Does anyone of you know what the problem might be?

micro

That sounds somehow like you haven't calibrated the stick (properly). Have you already tried to re-do the calibration?

Majoras Mask

oh that sounds promising, no i haven't will read up on it and try again, thanks!

micro

Short version:
1) switch off the console
2) open the controller and the stick
3) flip the little sliding switch to the other side
4) re-assemble stick and controller
5) make sure you don't touch the stick and turn on the console
6) move the stick in circles for a few seconds
7) turn off the console

:)

Majoras Mask

Thank you, you are very helpful!

I tried that now but it's still messed up/same result pretty much.

Never had this problem before but i guess my soldering must be wrong
somehow, it's just that i can't see it.

micro

Well, pictures could be helpful (either post them inside this thread or send me an email).

Majoras Mask

#26
 :-[ well figured it out thankfully, it was of course poor soldering.. thanks for your quick support micro!

Edit: well i know it's the bad soldering now. i have gotten it to work and then after i screwed everything together to play, it was screwed up again.. i guess what i need to do is remove everything and try to do a better solder job.

MockyLock

I've installed one in a controller and tested it with GoldenEye. Working like a charm. Glad i could help you to spot this so you could fix it. Really happy with my new N64 controller :)

Syx7h

I'm definitely going to be placing an order, but I need some help on figuring out where to get the stick and shell at.

If I'm not mistaken the GC Type stick and N64 Type shell is all you really need right? Those GC style sticks on ebay are expensive. Is that what people are doing? Paying 11-12 dollars each for these off of ebay and then gutting the inner board and pot. for Micros design?

I'll buy from these people off of ebay, but if anybody has an alternative or different site to buy from I'd really appreciate the info.

Thanks a lot guys and thanks Micro. You've done a great job. If this is going to be the possible "last batch" what happens to this project? Where do we get the boards and pots from if your not going to supply them anymore? It would be upsetting if this has to die.


Syx7h

I'm in the United States. I don't think that site delivers here.

However, could it be possible that I could just copy the specs from these pots and try to find a dealer here in the US?

For the sticks on ebay + the pots and boards that I would be buying from Micro. It's going to cost like 25-30 bucks a controller that I fix. Thats not too bad, considering that they were more brand new back in the day.

micro

Quote from: Majoras Mask on March 25, 2015, 05:03:17 AM
:-[ well figured it out thankfully, it was of course poor soldering.. thanks for your quick support micro!

Edit: well i know it's the bad soldering now. i have gotten it to work and then after i screwed everything together to play, it was screwed up again.. i guess what i need to do is remove everything and try to do a better solder job.
I'm glad you've found the culprit. :)

Here are my soldering tips:
1) If it's possible use standard solder with lead. Lead-free soldering is definitely more difficult. Also make sure your solder has flux inside, because without flux you simply can't get a decent solder joint
2) Set the temperature to 350 °C. (Lead-free solder usually needs a higher temperature)
3) Clean the tip with a sponge so it really shines
4) Adding just a TINY bit of fresh solder to the soldering iron's tip makes transferring the heat to the pad & pin easier
5) Heat up the solder pad on the PCB and the pin simultaneously for about 1 second.
6) Now add fresh solder to your solder joint. The flux removes any dirt/corrosion from the pad and pin and it also decreases the solder's surface tension so it can flow between everywhere, forming a nice solder joint.

Here's also a nice tutorial by some guy running a website called GameSX or so  ;D
http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/solder1.htm

And on youtube you'll also find tons of tutorial videos. This one by EEVblog seems to be quite good:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY




Quote from: MockyLock on March 26, 2015, 05:22:13 AM
I've installed one in a controller and tested it with GoldenEye. Working like a charm. Glad i could help you to spot this so you could fix it. Really happy with my new N64 controller :)
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for pointing out the issue in the first place.  :)




Quote from: Syx7h on March 26, 2015, 12:42:27 PM
I'm definitely going to be placing an order, but I need some help on figuring out where to get the stick and shell at.

If I'm not mistaken the GC Type stick and N64 Type shell is all you really need right? Those GC style sticks on ebay are expensive. Is that what people are doing? Paying 11-12 dollars each for these off of ebay and then gutting the inner board and pot. for Micros design?

I'll buy from these people off of ebay, but if anybody has an alternative or different site to buy from I'd really appreciate the info.

Thanks a lot guys and thanks Micro. You've done a great job. If this is going to be the possible "last batch" what happens to this project? Where do we get the boards and pots from if your not going to supply them anymore? It would be upsetting if this has to die.
It seems you're going the wrong way. Usually you get the GC-style replacement stick, you'll find out it sucks hard (1st version) or that it's a quite over-sensitive (current, 2nd version). Then you'll look for a solution and eventually you find this thread and the N64 Stick Converter PCB.

I always suggest to try out the GC-style replacement stick in its unmodded, original state. If you don't see any problems then you don't need my PCB.  8)  I really mean it!

It seems this PCB got quite a reputation by now. But if you haven't even played with GC-style replacement stick, how will you know if you need my PCB?

Syx7h

Hey Micro, I've already been around the mountain with 3rd party controllers for the gamecube and can definitely feel the difference between dead zones and sensitivity. Ever since I was a kid 3rd party stuff was always not as good as the original. Something was always too sensitive, not sensitive enough, have a massive deadzone, break after a little use, or have horrible ergonomics (Astropad for Dreamcast)(EA Sports N64 Controller).

I know I can trust people on Gamesx like you Micro to come up with something good, because that's exactly what it's going to take for old consoles to live on. It takes people that love the stuff and that aren't just trying to make a buck.

So is the only place I can buy these GC Sticks is on ebay? Also, do I apply the 2-3 dollar shipping for every single pcb/pot set? 2 pots/pcb = double the shipping? Is that right?

micro

QuoteSo is the only place I can buy these GC Sticks is on ebay?
Yes, these sticks can be bought on ebay or amazon. Someone also suggested https://mortoffgames.com/index.php but it seems they have some problems with their certificate...

QuoteAlso, do I apply the 2-3 dollar shipping for every single pcb/pot set? 2 pots/pcb = double the shipping? Is that right?
No, shipping is always 3.50€ (standard airmail) or 5.60€ (registered airmail) no matter how many PCB sets you're buying.  :D

Syx7h

Nice! TY Micro. Ill hopefully be placing my order soon. Unfortunately my car temp gauge went through the roof tonight driving to work. I had to pull over and walk the rest of the way, but it was just up the hill. My grandparents think it may be the thermostat. So hopefully it is. Car repairs can break the bank sometimes.

Majoras Mask

Thanks again micro, that was very helpful - i followed those steps to the best of my ability.

This is so strange. I used flux (externally added with a cotton cue tip (spelling?)) redid one board,
flicked the switch for calibration and followed the procedure etc

Then, I test out a game a run and have played extensively, to compare the movement with what i'm used to. everything works great. I think i can feel the difference in this upgraded version,
the movements are slightly more responsive, more delicate somehow. Yeah, it's subtle but noticeable.

Everything works great for a decent amount of time, so i'm pretty sure i got it this time.
Then, all of a sudden, it starts moving on its own again. It's so weird that it goes from working perfectly to
playing tricks on me. The exact same result with 2 boards, 2 different joysticks, and also two different connectors, that i have used for this.

When the automatic movement sets in, there seems to be no turning back, no way to
get it ok again, except to start all over with the desoldering, soldering or try a new board.

I guess my soldering gear and soldering ability is not enough, because this time i just can't get it to work
unfortunately. Before i try any more boards i will buy new soldering gear and try stuff to get some more
skills.



micro

Well, you should explain how the automatic movement looks like.

Is it just a very slight and slow movement when the stick is in the neutral position? This is caused by stick which is not returning to the exact point it was when you switched on the controller. This can be cured in-game by pressing L+R+Start. It will set the new neutral position. This is a built-in feature of the N64 controller itself. (not related to the PCB or the calibration)

But if it's like your stick has been fully tilted in one direction suddenly and you can't steer against it, then it's most likely caused by bad / cold solder joints. Especially you should inspect these two solder joints:


These two pads of the PCB are connected to a ground plane. Soldering the pins to these two pins can be difficult if you got a weak solder iron (<50 Watt). The ground plane is sucking away the heat, the pad and pin just don't get the right temperature. Setting the temperature of your soldering iron to 400 °C can do the trick! :)

Also, externally added flux is ok, but normally the flux inside the solder (if it includes flux) is enough to make some nice solder joints.


matticus

Hi Micro,
I was one of the lucky few to order the first batch and I've just built my 4 controllers with them. I picked up a small error in the PCB, the L and Z pads are inverted on each side of the board. Doesn't really matter but I thought you should know.

The other thing is 3 out of 4 controllers are working great, however I have a strange problem with one of them. The controller calibrates fine but when I set it to extended range mode the cursor erratically dips when I rotate the joystick in certain angles. Could this be a problem with the potentiometer? I'm pretty good at soldering so I don't think it's a connection problem but if you can't think of what could be wrong I'll open up the control pad and look again.


Matt

micro

Quote from: matticus on April 03, 2015, 06:04:03 PM
I picked up a small error in the PCB, the L and Z pads are inverted on each side of the board. Doesn't really matter but I thought you should know.
Yes, I'm aware of the flipped description on the bottom side.  :-\ But as you said, it doesn't really matter. You can connect L to the Z pad and Z to the L pad, no problem!

Quote from: matticus on April 03, 2015, 06:04:03 PM
The other thing is 3 out of 4 controllers are working great, however I have a strange problem with one of them. The controller calibrates fine but when I set it to extended range mode the cursor erratically dips when I rotate the joystick in certain angles. Could this be a problem with the potentiometer? I'm pretty good at soldering so I don't think it's a connection problem but if you can't think of what could be wrong I'll open up the control pad and look again.
Hmm, that's strange. The problem does only occur in extended range mode? If that was caused by a bad potentiometer then I would guess the problem would also be present in normal mode. Have you checked if the problem occurs in all games?

dav3yb

Still awaiting the arrival of my order!  I've been busy lately, so i haven't thought about it, but I'm hoping they'll make it here soon.  I picked up a helping hands to help when i have to assemble these things too!