My LM1881 sync-separator chip is damaged beyond repair (think Mason Verger from the movie Hannibal) so I need a new one. But in these tough economic times I don't exactly have the cash to buy another $10-12 part. Can you pilgrims link me to your favorite site to get reasonably priced and reliable electronic components?
Thanks for your patience, perseverance and kindness.
Ask InterSil for some free samples. That where I've always gotten my sync chips from and I haven't paid for any of them.
*GASPS* The famous R.A. Rusk?!! Wow, I've heard many tales about your console hacking knowledge. It's a privilege to have you on board! And yes, I will try your recommendation.
Quote from: RARusk on April 29, 2009, 01:43:10 PM
Ask InterSil for some free samples. That where I've always gotten my sync chips from and I haven't paid for any of them.
Thanks for the tip. I just submitted a sample request, so we'll see what happens.
Chris
I have an extra
Quote from: antron on April 30, 2009, 02:13:42 AM
I have an extra
Thanks but no thanks. InterSil just approved my request for one of their sync separators! I just hope that it works for my application.
fyi for you or anyone else that ever needs any, you can easily get five from National Semiconductor as well by filling out the sample request form on their site.
Oh boy! I received my "super sync separator" from intersil today and noticed this thing has 24 legs and it's very small! Here, I'll give ya a link to help me determine if I can somehow use this to hack up a RGB cable:
http://www.intersil.com/data/pk/MDP0040.pdf
Help me translate all of these gobblygook so I can get to making a cable!
Z, that's a generic sheet that goes with all chips of that type. It's telling you how to engineer a PCB that the component will fit in, and has no information about the pinout, voltage requirements, or signalling. Any chance you can find a link to the actual white paper for whatever chip you received?
OK, so here's the data sheet for this chip. I still don't see exactly which pins are what, or how I'm going to solder the video lines onto this tiny thing.
http://sigma.octopart.com/2328/datasheet/Intersil-EL4511CUZ.pdf
Seems pretty straightforward. Pin 10 is your input, pin 21 gives you horizontal out, pin 22 gives you vertical out. Pin 19 is your passthrough (not that you'll need it) and your clock talks to pin 1. You even have a handy logic line on pin 3 that indicates (via an LED, usually) that the chip is working correctly. All the relevant information is right there on page 4.
It's interesting to me that this chip wants a CMOS 6 volts instead of a TTL 5 volts, and that they bothered to have a separate ground line for every last signal instead of just running them all to a common ground.
A 4511? Wouldn't it have been better to go after a EL4583 or even a EL1881 instead? Or, if you're good at dealing with surface mount style components, an EL1883 or ISL59885?
Quote from: RARusk on May 02, 2009, 01:42:04 PM
A 4511? Wouldn't it have been better to go after a EL4583 or even a EL1881 instead? Or, if you're good at dealing with surface mount style components, an EL1883 or ISL59885?
Dude, I have zero knowledge about these sorts of of things so when I saw "sync separator" I just jumped the gun. It's been a pretty sad and stinky trip trying to get RGB from my SNES: First, my Commodore monitor will only stay on for 5 minutes, secondly I have all of this.
NAG, NAG, NAG, NAG, NAG.
Quote from: zedrein on May 02, 2009, 03:21:38 PM
Dude, I have zero knowledge about these sorts of of things so when I saw "sync separator" I just jumped the gun. It's been a pretty sad and stinky trip trying to get RGB from my SNES: First, my Commodore monitor will only stay on for 5 minutes, secondly I have all of this.
NAG, NAG, NAG, NAG, NAG.
Try again and order the correct part next time. LM1881N is equivalent to Intersil's EL1881CN.
[quote author=kendrick]It's interesting to me that this chip wants a CMOS 6 volts instead of a TTL 5 volts, and that they bothered to have a separate ground line for every last signal instead of just running them all to a common ground.[/quote]
Six volts is the absolute maximum. Typical is 5v to 3.3v. There are seperate power rails for analogue and digital which is useful with special power supply filtering (or a seperate supply entirely) for the analog circuitry to keep noise to a minumum. It's quite common for parts in tiny packages to have multiple Vcc/GND pins, the legs are so small that one pin by itself won't hanle the current sufficiently.
Quote from: viletim on May 02, 2009, 03:57:57 PM
Quote from: zedrein on May 02, 2009, 03:21:38 PM
Dude, I have zero knowledge about these sorts of of things so when I saw "sync separator" I just jumped the gun. It's been a pretty sad and stinky trip trying to get RGB from my SNES: First, my Commodore monitor will only stay on for 5 minutes, secondly I have all of this.
NAG, NAG, NAG, NAG, NAG.
Try again and order the correct part next time. LM1881N is equivalent to Intersil's EL1881CN.
[quote author=kendrick]It's interesting to me that this chip wants a CMOS 6 volts instead of a TTL 5 volts, and that they bothered to have a separate ground line for every last signal instead of just running them all to a common ground.
Six volts is the absolute maximum. Typical is 5v to 3.3v. There are seperate power rails for analogue and digital which is useful with special power supply filtering (or a seperate supply entirely) for the analog circuitry to keep noise to a minumum. It's quite common for parts in tiny packages to have multiple Vcc/GND pins, the legs are so small that one pin by itself won't hanle the current sufficiently.
[/quote]
Great! Will I have to use caps or resistors in the circuit in order for it to work just like the LM1881?