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Sony PVM-2030

Started by kripp, September 17, 2006, 07:50:45 AM

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kripp

Just picked up a Sony PVM-2030 20" RGB CRT for $59! Checked them out online, people are asking $400 for them!

Built an adapter for all my consoles too, games look amazing on this bad boy! So much for my Commodore 1084!

ido8bit

I've been using a PVM-2130 for years and haven't had any real problems with it.  The 2130 will accept composite video as sync for it's RGB input, no need for a sync seperator, but I'm not sure the 2030 does.  I'll probably retire my 2130 soon, I just picked a 2730 (basically the same monitor, but 27 inch).  I got the 2730 in exchange for repairing it's previous owner's TV, it was an easy fix with parts I pulled from a junk board so we're both happy.

 

kripp

Thats a cool option with the composite sync, I know the PVM-2030 is not like that. It does have a switch though to turn sync on green on or off, thats not bad.

Just been working on setting up the monitor with my AV equipment. I like the cubic style of the PVM-2030, its nice to be able to stack equipment on top of this monitor.

Thanks.

ido8bit

It seems that it's the Euro models of many monitors accept composite video as sync while the US models do not.  It has come up on this forum many times regarding 1084s.  After googling the PVM-2030 I did notice that it has the 25 pin "computer" input that neither my PVM-2130 nor PVM-2730 have, but they both have a SCART input that the PVM-2030 (and PVM-2530) do not have.  

It seems though that Sony isn't always consistent.  Their original "Profeel" (KX20PS1, KX27PS1) monitors have SCART connectors, but they are wired differently.  They also used 34 pin connectors on some models and 8 pin connectors on others.  Perhaps I should make a gallery of Sony monitors...

kripp

I have been pissing around with this PVM-2030 for a couple of days now and have only had one issue with it, that is finding out if the 25-pin "computer" connector will accept an audio signal.

I found one incomplete pinout for that connector and it had only stated something about mono-audio or being able to use another source (AV1/AV2, VTR/SVHS) as the audio source for the "computer" connection.

I did however manage to program a Sony DSS remote to control the PVR-2030!

What I would like to with this monitor is use it for watching standard cable TV, I just dont want to use a VCR or cable box hooked up through composite video to do so.

Thanks.

Endymion

For what it's worth, every PVM I have seen with the DB-25 socket has had the same pinout, and none of the pinouts in any of the Sony manuals I have ever read had audio over it either. You've just got your colour, sync(s), and a whole gaggle of grounds to worry about.

kripp

This is the only partial pinout I have come accross...


Pin   Signal         Descr
---------------------------------------------------------------
1     IBM Select     High: IBM mode (RGBI)
                    Low:  3 Bit TTL (RGB)

2     Audio Select   High: Audio input from pin 13
                    Low:  Audio input from LINE A/B/VTR jacks

3     HSync/CSync    Horizontal or Composite Sync, Negative Pol.

4     Blue Input     Video Inputs: Positive Pol.

5     Green Input    (Sync on green optional in analog mode)

6     Red Input

7     NC

8     NC

9     Analog/Digital High: Analog mode
                    Low:  Digital mode

10    RGB/Normal     High: RGB input selected
                    Low:  LINE A/B/VTR input selected

11    VSync          Vertical Sync, Negative Pol.

12    Blanking       High: Video input from RGB input only
                    Low:  LINE A/B/VTR signal is superimposed over
                          signal from RGB input

13    Audio Input    -5 dB / 100% mod.

14    NC

15-24 Ground

25    intensity      Positive Pol.


Pin 13 is the only indication of any auditory input, mono I would guess. I have tried to use the audio inputs from another source for the "computer" connection, but no luck.

Just curious, anyone have the scart pinout for these things?

Thanks.

kripp

I just took another look over my last post there...

I guess if I grounded pin 2 it would accept audio from one of the other sources! Will have to give that a shot, the only connections I have on my connector are the R/G/B, sync and one ground.

RGB32E

I've had a PVM-2030 since '99 and it is definitely an awesome video monitor.  This unit can accept composite video (as sync) on pin 3.  I have the original manual and remote for this monitor.  (For reference).

BTW. For arcade games, I use 160 ohm resistors in series on the red, green, and blue video signals.  Without adding the resistors, the signal is WAY too strong!

ido8bit

There's a remote for these?  I've never seen one.  I guess I had assumed that as there is a Control S jack on the monitor it was intended to be controlled via whatever was being used as the source (assuming the source was another Sony product).  That said I've never seen the matching speakers either, none that I have ever owned came with them.  




Endymion

My 2530 works with a universal remote. If your unit has an IR sensor on the front it should work.

kripp

I use my Sony Clie PDA as a remote for my PVM-2030, funny thing is though... where is the IR reciever?

I have looked the unit up, down and all around and still don't see it! Usually you can tell where they are because they use a shiny lens over the reciever, not on the PVM-2030 though. But this feature (or lack there of) actually adds to the overall aesthetic of the unit.

Thanks.

RGB32E

Its right below the power switch!!! :P

jiji

I just picked up one of these, and it's beautiful. PS2 and Duo RGB input are clear as day. However, with RGB from my Saturn and Genesis CDX, the picture is too dark. It looks like the blue level might be almost where it's supposed to be, but red and green are way too dark.  I thought that my lack of capacitors in those cables was causing the problem, but after putting 220uf caps in my Saturn's RGB cable, I get the same result.  Any ideas?

Segasonicfan

I've had a pvm2030 for about a year now and was delighted to get it for $100.  It does have some slight problems with tating and corner images, but for the price nothing beats it.

The CDX RGB is crap and doesnt work on my pvm either.  Haven't tried the Saturn yet.  Maybe you just need to raise the picture brightness setting on the monitor?  If that doesn't work you may need to readjust the impedance for the video lines inside the Saturn.

-Segasonicfan  
MY WEBSITE: https://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro
I design PCBs for retro game systems :)

kripp

Thats strange, my Saturn looks great on my monitor. Have yet to find a console that does not look right on this monitor, although it does suffer from a bit of picture shift (looks as though it is off to the left a bit).

Does anyone know how to adjust this monitor in this way, there are no typical knobs or dials to adjust this. I actually used a bike spoke to tweak the dials in the back (did not have a long enough screwdriver), and it only adjusted the brightness and something else but not the position of the image.

Thanks.

Segasonicfan

you can adjust everything inside the monitor if you take it all apart.  Kind of a pain in the ass, eventually i hope to make the adjustments external by wiring a bunch of pots outside the case.  If you open it up and look from the back the picture adjustment controls you want are on the right side (facing the pack).  there's a huge  PCB you have to unscrew that has a ton of pots for adjustments.

-Segasonicfan
MY WEBSITE: https://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro
I design PCBs for retro game systems :)

kripp

#17
Sounds like fun!

Would make a great project log post I guess! I would hope that once I have made the proper adjustments that there would be no need to re-adjust in the future, so not having to drill holes for external pots would be nice.

I get to thinking though that it could just be the console itself and its cable and not the monitor (a bit far-fetched perhaps). I typically only use this monitor for the PS2 at the moment, my other consoles have been getting zero play time these days. Perhaps I should test out a couple of other consoles before I go taking this monitor apart. I don't even notice the distortion while playing on the PS2 anyways.

Thanks for the info none-the-less.

Edit: Just tested my Saturn on this monitor, same problems (suprise!) So it looks like I will have something to do this weekend!

RGB32E

The remote for the PVM-2030/2530 is model number RM-739.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Sony-RM-739-RM739-...1QQcmdZViewItem

It doesn't have a lot of buttons, but is handy for what it does offer.  BTW, does anyone want me to post scans from the PVM-2030 manual on the GamesX Wiki?

kripp

The manual you have, is it the same one that is floating around on Google or is it a service manual? I did add the "Computer" pinout to the Wiki the other day, not very pretty but the information is there.

Sony PVM-2030 Wiki page

I think you should add the manual there anyways, the more information the better!

Thanks.

RGB32E

I haven't checked google, but the manual I have is the one that comes with the monitor (user manual).  So, the info that can be found via a Google query was probably taken from the manual that I have.  The computer pinout is a page from the user manual (and is not exclusive to a "Service Manual").

At first glance, the info posted to the Wiki appears to be complete.  I'll check it against the manual and update any omitted information.  I hope to create a .pdf from the scans (hopefully Sony won't mind!).   ^_^  

Guest

I'm having trouble connecting my PC to the PVM-2030, it appears to only support up to 640 x 200 resolution, anyone else tried this?

Guest

The PVM can't connect to a PC since it can't run at 31 khz like PC monitors can.
Unless your video card can somehow sync down to 15 khz, it won't work.

RGB32E

#23
QuoteThe PVM can't connect to a PC since it can't run at 31 khz like PC monitors can.
Unless your video card can somehow sync down to 15 khz, it won't work.

If you have an nVidia based video card (can't speak for ATI), you can custom tailor the timing for a particular resolution.  In the case of outputting to the PVM-2030 you'd want to go no higher than 720x480.  This can be found in the "Screen Resolutions & Refresh Rates" leaf of the nV card's advanced settings (in Win2k/XP).  There is also an "Interlaced mode" check box in the "Advanced Timing" dialog box.

Make sure you have a newer nVidia driver.  Also, be aware that you'll most likely have to use composite sync, which is on a different pin than H sync.  Using separate sync signals on the 2030 seems to be reserved for "old ass" digital RGB.

Alternatively, you could use a program such as PowerStrip: http://www.entechtaiwan.com/ps.htm

This program provides a more robust GUI, and may be easier to use.  So, you'll probably have to do some more experimentation, but I thought this info might help you!  :)

jiji

Okay, I figured out my problem. In my Saturn's RGB cable, I didn't have the shield wired to ground for some reason. Fixing that returned everything to the proper brightness. I'm sure my MD2 cable has the same problem.  

kripp

I built a "VGA" cable for the PVM-2030 and gave the PowerStrip program a shot, no dice! I don't know if it was my cable or the software (or PC hardware for that fact) that was the problem, but I could not get it to work at all.

The software would not allow me to set my video card to anything lower than 25khz, so I guess it would be a problem with my PC hardware and not the PVM-2030 or the software. No big suprise really, I tested this using a EPIA VIA mainboard with the onboard S3 graphics.

Still something I would like to get working though, my only other choice is a KVM switch. I am running a Macintosh on a 21" CTX monitor now, but would like to run a PC too.

Thanks.

RGB32E

QuoteThe software would not allow me to set my video card to anything lower than 25khz, so I guess it would be a problem with my PC hardware and not the PVM-2030 or the software. No big suprise really, I tested this using a EPIA VIA mainboard with the onboard S3 graphics.
If powerstrip didn't allow you to set the output lower than 25kHz, then there is a very good chance that the integrated S3 chipset is incapable of going down to 15.75kHz.  Have you tried a more robust video card yet?

kripp

#27
I have yet to try the Powerstrip software with any other video card, I do have an ATI card that should go below 25khz that I will be testing out sometime today. I will post my findings/results here in this thread, perhaps even a picture or two if I can actually get it working!

Thanks.

Edit: I just checked the ATI Radeon 7200 card I have, it will only go as low as 25khz too.

bioelectronicsam

#28
RGB32E,
thanks for posting about the powerstrip sw, I'm almost able to get my PC to connect to the PVM2030.  I got the sync down to 15.75 but the picture's fuzzy and looks oversized.  Anyways, can someone recommend a good resource that explains the differences in the multiple ways video can be transmitted, RGB, SVGA, etc.  I'm really confused why I can't get this to work,

also, I've been using this monitor with my gamecube for a while and I love it, I just use the s-video connection on it.  Are other people using the cmptr input for gaming?  If so is it easier than connecting it to a PC?

edit:
I just read the primers by Lawrence, it appears some of the links are bad but the ones on the wiki work, this has helped me alot,

RGB32E

There are some things that I can think of that may be causing the problem with your PC to PVM:

-Composite Sync wasn't used (can be software selected)
-Polarity of the sync isn't correct (positive instead of negative?)
-Insufficient ground
-Resolution set above 720x480 (e.g. 800x600)


As far as the computer input is concerned, it is perfect for the RGBS signals that many video game systems output.  :P

kripp

bioelectronicsam,

What kind of video card are you using?

Thanks.

bioelectronicsam

kripp
I'm using an older card, ECS AG305-32M, yes the 32m is for 32MB.  I use this computer for some audio recording because it's virtually noiseless and for experimenting on.  I'm using a SiS 305 driver.  I have a nVidia card in my good computer, I'm going to try the power strip program on it now that I feel a little more comfortable with it.  I'll let you know if it works on that.  Also, I have the users manual for the PVM2030 on pdf, can't remember where I downloaded it from, if you want it I can email it to you.

RGB32E
I verified your recommendations, my resolution is set to 640 x 480, the users manual says the RGB resolution is 640 x 200, I can't get that setting to work with my current video driver, also, when I change the Hsync down to 15.75kHz, the Vsync wants to automatically change with it and ends up being about 31kHz.  Do you think the VSync might be some of my issue, or maybe the resolution difference?  I'd like to know if there's a typical value for the Vsync freq's, do you know what some of the game consoles have as Vsync?

Thanks, any input at this point is good input for me.

Endymion

QuoteAre other people using the cmptr input for gaming?  If so is it easier than connecting it to a PC?
Just noticed this bit--heck yes it's worth it. That "CMPTR" input is RGB, which is most of what this site was founded on. :)

RGB32E

QuoteRGB32E
I verified your recommendations, my resolution is set to 640 x 480, the users manual says the RGB resolution is 640 x 200, I can't get that setting to work with my current video driver, also, when I change the Hsync down to 15.75kHz, the Vsync wants to automatically change with it and ends up being about 31kHz.  Do you think the VSync might be some of my issue, or maybe the resolution difference?  I'd like to know if there's a typical value for the Vsync freq's, do you know what some of the game consoles have as Vsync?

Well, the vertical sync should be around 60Hz.  Game systems that output NTSC video (North America, Japan, and a few other countries), all have a 60Hz (close enough) refresh.  The sync output on consoles (with a few exceptions) is composite (H+V syncs).  

As a side note, the PVM-2030 will strip the sync from Y or composite video.  This is good to know if you ever try making an RGB cable for the Playstation 1, 2 or 3, as there are not enough pins on the PS style connector to output composite sync.  Ehh...  :ph34r:  

kripp

I was testing out most of my consoles on my pvm-2030 last weekend and noticed a few things...

The Nintendo 64 does not produce the image distortion that all the other consoles seem to suffer from, the image fills the entire screen area. Each and every other console I tested has a horrible inward bowing effect on the right hand side, very rounded!

Also, the RGB cables/dongles I have built that use resistors on the sync line (SMS, Genesis 1 & 2, Neo Geo CD) do not work on this monitor, I can get an image to display for a brief second and then it appears to burn or fade to black. The cables/dongles produce the exact effect on the Commodore 1084 without the resistors on the sync line.

Just a few observations, thought I would share.

I still plan to open the monitor up and make some adjustments to the pots inside, perhaps I can re-tune this monitor.

Thanks.

Segasonicfan

hey kripp,
 You can fix the problem with the SMS/Genny like I did.  I had to use a good sync splitter (the ISL59885 from Intersil, an amazing chip) and then the fade to black stopped and I got a *prefect* image.  That's also an interesting observation on the N64...I do hate that curve but if you open up the monitor that can be adjusted to look a little better :)

If you do open it up please take some pics as I forgot to last time I opened mine..

-Segasonicfan
MY WEBSITE: https://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro
I design PCBs for retro game systems :)

kripp

#36
I guess I could make a sync splitter adaptor, but I am thinking that I will keep my PVM-2030 and let the 1084 go. What I would really like to do is use the PVM-2030 as my main display, for consoles and TV (working on RGB output for a Sony DSS box).

I really have lost interest in the whole console collecting thing, I have let numerous consoles go in the last 6 months. I only keep the consoles I intend on playing, all of the others have been sold off.

I plan on opening up the PVM-2030 over the Christmas holidays and will take pictures of the internals as I go. I really enjoy the PVM-2030 and would like to get as many years of use out of it as possible.

Will keep you all updated as I go.

Thanks.

Segasonicfan

heh, you're doing the exact same thing as me kripp ;)  I use my PVM-2530 for all my video games now and I've let almost all my consoles go because I'm almost soley into the arcade market now.

I also forgot to mention about the Powerstrip...I worked a lot on that with my PVM but that thing is a nightmare.  I got so close to a perfect image but the adjustments take hours upon hours and you can't even watch any norm videos.  Probably just better to get a downscan converter.

-Segasonicfan
MY WEBSITE: https://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro
I design PCBs for retro game systems :)

bioelectronicsam

Kripp,
I finally got around to using the power strip sw on my good computer.  I have an nVidia GEForce 5200, even with the newest drivers I was not able to get the card to put out a composite sync, however the v and h syncs were easily adjustable to the proper freqs.  I found this circuit online to make sync on green from a VGA source,

http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/sync_r.html

I'm gonna try it next weekend, I used the S-video output on my PC card and it works fine with the PVM, I also started modifying my Gamecube cable for RGB until I realized my NTSC Gamecube won't put out RGB, I guess I should have  RTFM closer.  

Any thoughts on how much Sync on green will degrade the signal compared to normal RGB?  

Segasonicfan

bioelectronics- thanks for the info on the powerstrip fix.  I thought V and H sync might improve it but was too lazy to build a new set of adapters.  Now I know I must :)

As for sync on green..why do you even need this?  The PVMs support both sync on green and regular C sync.  To answer your Q thought, this would not degrade the quality on any noticeable measure.

-Segasonicfan
MY WEBSITE: https://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro
I design PCBs for retro game systems :)