nfg.forums

Hey guys,

I'm probably going to regret this but I need the money so I'm getting rid of my precious XRGB-2 (non-plus) unit, still in near-perfect condition.

As you all know, this is the only box that supports all the crazy frequencies from Arcade RGB signals for perfect display on a PC monitor or compatible device.

eBay auction: Micomsoft XRGB-2 (non-plus)

I still have the original box and all the stuff that was originally packed in--the warranty slip from the Japanese camera store where it was purchased about five years ago is even still taped to the box!  Not that it would do you much good anymore  :lol:

Anyway, I hope the next owner can put this thing to good use and play a lot of arcade games!

He-hey, its you!

Im the one who got it !

I ran into some problems now... I thought it would be easy to move those jumpers from N to P but then again ... nope. I tested it with S-video, it was okay, though it didnt seem to get better picture then my TV-tuner did.
I dont know what should I do maybe I will show the prob to some professional..
I made a thread on liksang forums labeld "Will pay for SCART rewired to japanese RGB".  <_<  

I've modified my XRGB so the 21 pin connector is compatible with unmodified SCART cables.  

After changing all the jumpers from N to P I found that it wouldn't sync, so I traced it through and found it was expecting sync on pin 16.  All my SCART cables (including those bought from Lik-Sang and those I made myself) have sync on pin 20.  I lifted pin 16 inside the XRGB2 leaving it unconnected and wired a jumper from pin 20 to the trace that was connected to pin 16.

The XRGB2 now works with unmodified SCART cables.  I know it wasn't my cables at fault as they work with my SCART TVs.

If you are still unsure I'll open my XRGB2 and take a picture.  

QuoteI've modified my XRGB so the 21 pin connector is compatible with unmodified SCART cables.  

After changing all the jumpers from N to P I found that it wouldn't sync, so I traced it through and found it was expecting sync on pin 16.  All my SCART cables (including those bought from Lik-Sang and those I made myself) have sync on pin 20.  I lifted pin 16 inside the XRGB2 leaving it unconnected and wired a jumper from pin 20 to the trace that was connected to pin 16.

The XRGB2 now works with unmodified SCART cables.  I know it wasn't my cables at fault as they work with my SCART TVs.

If you are still unsure I'll open my XRGB2 and take a picture.

wow.. so even changing from N to P isnt enough  :blink:

umm yeah, I opened the unt and say that those jumpers are very tiny and seems to be very hard to remove them. So I left it alone...
But some pics would be great though    

I finally got around to taking that picture.  Well, better late than never I guess.



All the jumpers have been removed from the N positions.  All the P jumper pads are bridged EXCEPT for R60.  A wire is soldered from the bottom (closest to the connector) pad of R60 to the top (furthest from the connector) pad of R72.  The result is the connector is wired for RGB according to the SCART pinout with sync on pin 20.  This works with all my SCART cables.

Also worth noting is that the XRGB-2 can accept composite video as sync with the need for a sync seperator (LM1881 or otherwise).

Quoteumm yeah, I opened the unt and say that those jumpers are very tiny and seems to be very hard to remove them. So I left it alone...
But some pics would be great though 

This is easy shit to do, you do not have to fiddle with the resistors after you pull them. Just take them off then trash them. Use a tiny blob of solder to bridge the gap to the jumpers you need and it will work. These kids of resistors are only there to bridge the gap, it won't matter that you aren't using one so long as it has a connection. Heat both sides of the resistor in an alternating pattern, maybe 3-5 seconds each and you will find they fall right off.

Edit: If you look closely at ido8bit's photo, you'll see that's exactly how he did it.

Okay, I've broken. Ill buy that f*ckin Sony JAPRGB for 80 + 20 bucks.
Ive tried to create a scart to jap converter, but it didnt work. No pic, no sound. I just hope that it didnt screw the XRGB2 up.    

What have you done to the XRGB2 so far?  If you've changed any of the N/P jumpers you'll have to put them all back in the N positions for the JAP RGB to work.

Honestly, it's not that hard to modify the XRGB2 in the same way that I've done.  As Endymion said you don't have to worry about the little resitors.  They are 0 ohm, blobs of solder will do exactly the same thing.  The little 0 ohm resistors are purely for the benefit of the automatic pick and place machines on the assembly line.

If you don't plan on doing any other electronic work in the future and just want to play your games on a VGA monitor as painlessly as possible get someone else who knows what they are doing to do it for you.  

Otherwise, get a couple of junk boards (dead PC motherboard, whatever, as long as it has simliar surface mount components on it), a soldering iron with a fine tip (don't try using one of those crappy $10 irons with a chunky  tip, it will make things harder than they need to be) and practice until you can remove components without lifting the pads off the board.

If you have already lifted pads on the XRGB2 board it can be repaired by tracing those pads back to other pads or vias and soldering to those points.  

I didnt do anything to the XRGB2 itself, but they say that wrongly soldered or unmodified SRACTs damage the unit. I very verry hope that mine isnt damaged because of my try.

PS.
I already ordered the Sony scph-1050

What is  the 15 khz mode for ?  :huh:  

Innuendo, the 15 kHz sync rate is used for the RGB video signal. Please have a look at Lawrence's video primer if youi need more information:

http://atarilabs.com/meat/2000/1201_rgbprimer.shtml

-KKC, making bad Star Wars jokes.

Does this mean that I will possibly get less pixelated pic with the Jap RGB cabel ?
To be honest, I was a little disappointed with the Xrgb 2 unit when I first saw the picture it brought. It was more pixelated than with my TV-tuner. But my Tv tuner picked up LOTS AND LOTS of noise thats why I didnt use it..

OH cool. I think it did screw up.  <_<
Finaly the japRGB arrived. First it worked just perfectly, for like 3 minutes, than blank screen, and only sound. Strange thing is, when the PS2 is switched on, the screen is absolutely blank, and that means, than even the XRGB2 menu wont show. And when I swotch the PS2 off, the menu shows.  
What now ?    

My guess is you've got a bad cable, or a blown XRGB.  If your cable has a short it can do what you describe, masically the XRGB is unable to function because the signals are completely wrong.  

Or at least that's how it sounds.  Get another cable or try a different console.

And FFS make sure it's a J-RGB cable, not Euro/SCART!  =)

QuoteMy guess is you've got a bad cable, or a blown XRGB.  If your cable has a short it can do what you describe, masically the XRGB is unable to function because the signals are completely wrong.  

Or at least that's how it sounds.  Get another cable or try a different console.

And FFS make sure it's a J-RGB cable, not Euro/SCART!  =)

you werent listening. I said it worked fine for a few minutes

I tried it a gain today and now it works fine again. :blink: Thank god.
BTW, what the hell is that AFC in the menu ?

Ok, I modded my XRGB-2 (non plus) as per the instructions posted by ido8bit. Here are my results


PC Engine duo (modded for RGB to accept a PSone cable) - works fine
Sega Master System -works fine
Supergun Supernova (has same connector as Master System) -works fine (tried with a Robocop PCB and 4-slot MVS)
Sega Saturn - works fine
XBOX - works fine
Super Nintendo - picture is rolling
Sega CDX (genesis/CD combo based off of genesis2) - picture is rolling
Atari Jaguar - display is shaky


Anyone have any ideas about the systems that don't work so well? Also, is there a way to switch it to 15khz mode and if so how? My monitor does both 15khz and 31khz. Finally, why does the image displayed appear in a box and to the left?